No water
Ian, Check that the petcock is free of debris and rust sludge. Poke a wire into the petcock and see if you can pull out any junk or if water flow begins. Have you opened any air bleeds or vents (I'm not familiar with this specific engine) to be sure it isn't air-locked? For what it's worth, I never drain my engine block or the raw water heat exchanger loop. I alway fill with antifreeze. I believe that the antifreeze will give two benefits besides the freezing protection. First, if the engine is filled, then there is no worry that some "pocket" might be in danger of causing damage, and second, if the engine is filled, then the inside of the engine cooling passages is not exposed to air and cannot rust and create flakes of rust and sludge that can plug any cooling passages. One year I did drain my old Atomic 4 and had fits trying to get water to pass in the spring. I never had any problem with an engine filled with antifreeze. In order to fill the engine without running, I would remove the raw pump impeller. Remove the cover screws (probably 6), and mark the outward-facing side of the impeller with a magic marker. Extract the impeller using two needle-nosed pliers on opposite sides of the impeller. You might be able to just pull it out with your hand without pliers. Replace the cover and paper gasket and screws and tighten. Remove the outlet hose from the engine block that dumps the waste water into the exhaust elbow and run it to a bucket. If this engine is raw water cooled, locate and remove the thermostat. Failure to remove the thermostat will result in the antifreeze bypassing some part of your block thus defeating your intention. Using a drill-powered pump, pump 50/50 polyglycol (safe-type) antifreeze into the hose that was connected to the raw water strainer until it flows a solid dark color out of the output. Reconnect all of the hoses, and replace the thermostat and you are done. Inspect the impeller. ANY sign of cracks or worn spots, discard and replace. Many engine manufacturers recommend replacement every year. That is the safest bet. CAUTION: The following is my opinion based upon my experience and observations. If the impeller looks good AND you expect to have no more than 300 hours on it before your next inspection, then attach the impeller to the starting key and store until spring. Replace the impeller with the same side outward. My experience is that an impeller will be serviceable well over 300 hours but I have had one develop cracks around 380 hours. I would replace an impeller before the 300 hour mark. At $30 apiece, you can argue that it is not worth the risk to reuse it, but I have 3 of these type of impellers in engines and pumps in my boat and I don't want to replace $100 worth of parts every year when they will typically service for 3 years. Good Luck. Rich
