Just curious, has anyone removed the skeg and had just the rudder by itself? Is this possible, or does the rudder need the support of the skeg ?
Removal of skeg on 81 H-30
- Thread starter newage1461
- Start date
Well, in case any work had to be done on the rudder... Access seems to be close to none, so was wondering if it would work without the skeg..
I have removed the skeg to repair it, but put it back on. Don't know how much support it really provides to the rudder, but it certainly protects it. Personally, I wouldn't alter Mr. Cherubini's design in such a critical area.
While you have the rudder and skeg off, it's a good time to pull the prop shaft and replace your cutlass bearing too. Every project on a boat seems to become at least three.
While you have the rudder and skeg off, it's a good time to pull the prop shaft and replace your cutlass bearing too. Every project on a boat seems to become at least three.
I have helped two owners remove their skegs. They don't really do anything except make the boat hard to steer. In both cases, we then removed the rudder and added on to the leading edge, basically copying the rudder on my boat, to make it a balanced spade. The difference is amazing. The boat never runs out of rudder, and all that gurgling that you used to hear during hard turns, is gone.
Hunter 30 Skeg
Fellow Sailors,
All very good comments, so I thought I'd add my humble opinion and it is just my opinion. I have sailed many boats over nearly forty years of sailing. The boat that has impressed me the most though over a wide variety of conditions has been my 1979 Hunter 30. I have the deep draft version which serves me well as I sail Lake Ontario and cross the lake often. One of the most impressive aspects of the boat is, in my opinion, the helm. She tracks like she's on rails and turns in her own length, great characteristics and she doesn't fatigue the helmsman. Anyway, I can't think of a boat I would rather cruise in stock form with the skeg and all.
I would never have an interest in redesigning for myself.
Cheers,
Bob
Fellow Sailors,
All very good comments, so I thought I'd add my humble opinion and it is just my opinion. I have sailed many boats over nearly forty years of sailing. The boat that has impressed me the most though over a wide variety of conditions has been my 1979 Hunter 30. I have the deep draft version which serves me well as I sail Lake Ontario and cross the lake often. One of the most impressive aspects of the boat is, in my opinion, the helm. She tracks like she's on rails and turns in her own length, great characteristics and she doesn't fatigue the helmsman. Anyway, I can't think of a boat I would rather cruise in stock form with the skeg and all.
I would never have an interest in redesigning for myself.
Cheers,
Bob
No. The bottom of my rudder pivots on the skeg.....the part I said that wraps under the leading edge of the rudder.
As already said the boat handles and balances so well wouldn't consider changing to a spade type setup. If you run out of rudder your over powering the sails in my experience and you wAnt to reduce sail or change the angle of attack.
Both boats I have helped modify race extensivly. The running out of rudder comment was based on spinnaker reaches in fairly heavy air. If you really want to see the difference for yourself, drive a H30 then drive A H37. The difference is amazing. The skeg is there for looks. Both of the ones we took off were held on with screws, and both rudders did have a pin at the bottom. When you shook the rudder back and forth the skeg moved with it. Both 30's that we changed have made very long offshore passages without incident.
When you turn a boat with a balanced spade, the entire rudder is aimed at the direction of the water flow. When you turn a boat with a skeg mounter rudder, the skeg is being dragged through the water sideways, creating a huge amount of drag. Doesn't matter if you are cruising, but if you are racing and have to tack 20 times, it is huge.
I am not trying to convince anyone to do anything. I am just trying to let you know what I have seen.
When you turn a boat with a balanced spade, the entire rudder is aimed at the direction of the water flow. When you turn a boat with a skeg mounter rudder, the skeg is being dragged through the water sideways, creating a huge amount of drag. Doesn't matter if you are cruising, but if you are racing and have to tack 20 times, it is huge.
I am not trying to convince anyone to do anything. I am just trying to let you know what I have seen.
I have been sailing an 78 H30 deep keel,without a rudder skeg for several years now. It has not effected the performance. The boat was acquired without skeg and during the last haul, the rudder post was coated to prevent corrosion. The progeny of the vessel did not include the event that led to skeg removal. I surmise it was broken or removed after it was salvaged and abandoned in a soft grounding, (hearsay info). Even with the original, worn sails, it sails and tracks fine. Too bad it has not been cared for. Almost everything on the boat needs replacing or updating, but she's a fine daysailer. Replacing the skeg is way down the list.
I recently acquired a 78 H30. The bottom of the skeg is broken off and no attachment to the rudder. Rudder post is bent aft a couple of degrees. The boat has been sailed in this condition for a while. Any thoughts on leaving the skeg attached and the rudder unattached. No blue water or racing planned. Thanks.