I have a problem for which I am seeking ideas. The removable deck sole that covers the bilge on my 2000 380 doesn't want to move. The section in question is the one that is over the main area of the bilge and butts up against the compression post. I haven't been able to move it in about 8 months. I was hoping that as the weather turned cold and there was a minor bit of thermal contraction, that it would free up the sole-- I was wrong. Any thoughts on how to get this section free? When I try to lift with my finger in the hole, it goes nowhere. It's not a matter of not using enough force to lift it as I'm about 220lb of solid muscle. Could it be possible that the tension in the standing rigging is causing this (I had it retensioned late last spring)? Thanks in advance for any ideas that you have.
Removable Deck Sole.....Doesn't Move
- Thread starter rgtet
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Get a "suction grab bar" (search and you will see what I mean), about $15, meant for grab bars in shower and bathtub, very useful for pulling up floor board without damage (and without breaking your finger in the little hole). One lives on our boat, lots of uses.
There should be nothing holding it down except expansion due to moisture. Note that this is the time of year when the problem is exacerbated, not minimized, especially if your boat is closed up for winter.
If it was tight before, it will be more so now. The rigging tension should be irrelevant but if the boat is out of the water, hull distortion may be contributing to the problem.
Since the sole plates are like dominos, try moving some adjoining ones to make room for expansion
If it was tight before, it will be more so now. The rigging tension should be irrelevant but if the boat is out of the water, hull distortion may be contributing to the problem.
Since the sole plates are like dominos, try moving some adjoining ones to make room for expansion
Had this happen.
I tied a low stretch line (type used for lashings) to the middle of a small spanner. You can use anything thin and long that will fit though the hole. Dropped it vertically through the hole and pulled it up tight to the hole. Then a couple of sharp tugs should free the floorboard. You may want to tie another large spanner or something to the end of the cord so it's easier to get a good purchase to pull.
In our case it was grit and sand that had got in around the edge of the board that seemed to cause the problem.
Anyway good luck and let us know how it goes.
I tied a low stretch line (type used for lashings) to the middle of a small spanner. You can use anything thin and long that will fit though the hole. Dropped it vertically through the hole and pulled it up tight to the hole. Then a couple of sharp tugs should free the floorboard. You may want to tie another large spanner or something to the end of the cord so it's easier to get a good purchase to pull.
In our case it was grit and sand that had got in around the edge of the board that seemed to cause the problem.
Anyway good luck and let us know how it goes.
Thanks for the idea. It worked perfectly. The grab bar was about $12 at a local hardware store. I do believe that I will keep it aboard for future use.
Gordon Taylor- I was thinking about a similar approach before I came here for advice. My problem was finding something small enough to fit through the finger hole, yet having enough length (to distribute force on the underside of the board) and strength (everything that I had would bend too easily) to lift the board. The suction bar was a really simple solution that took about 5 seconds (if that) to set up.
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