I am due to remount all the deck hardware (winches, cleats etc) back onto my Oday 23 after extensive refurbishment. When I originally removed each piece it was backed by a rubber pad between the hardware and the deck. 1. As this is a 1972 model was this the method used as a sealant in those days ? 2. Is it ok to just use a good polyurethane sealant such as 3M to stick the hardware to the deck without the rubber pad ? 3. Do you need and additional rubber pad ? 4. Is a stainless steel backing plate the best ? Originally the backing plates were marine ply which had rotted. Thanks
Remounting hardware
- Thread starter Jonathan12951
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Remounting
I don't know what Oday did back in 72, but my '79 Oday 23 does not have rubber pads beneath the deck hardware, just sealant. The 3M alone should be more than sufficient. By all means, use stainless backing plates. As you have found, wood rots.
I don't know what Oday did back in 72, but my '79 Oday 23 does not have rubber pads beneath the deck hardware, just sealant. The 3M alone should be more than sufficient. By all means, use stainless backing plates. As you have found, wood rots.
Life- Calk
I would suggest Life-Calk polysulfide sealant. I have found this works better than anything else I've tried. Also, you don't want to "glue" the hardware to the deck.
I would suggest Life-Calk polysulfide sealant. I have found this works better than anything else I've tried. Also, you don't want to "glue" the hardware to the deck.
What was this stuff?
When I pulled the toe rails on my '74 O'Day 27, the middle starboard rail had a thin black rubber gasket but the aft starboard rail had some kind of white stuff that was an elastic adhesive. It was very hard to get the toe rail off. I had to lift the end of the rail with a 16 inch wrecking bar, then use a serated pocket knife to cut through the stretched white adhesive. Does anyone know what this adhesive/sealant is? Is polysulfide that adhesive? Is 4200 that elastic? I've had the boat over 5 years and no one used it for 4 years before that, so the sealant is at least 10 years old. BTW, all of the other rails had some kind of dried up and cracked sealant. No wonder they were leaking. On a related note... The last time I varnished (2 years ago) I put on 9 coats of varnish. I was really dreading stripping all of that off so I bought a heat gun (I've never used one before) and a drag scraper. Thank God for heat guns, I stripped all of the wood in 6 hours. I only needed 1 coat of chemical stripper to pull the varnish out of the deeper grains. I'm now sanding to prep for Cetol Lite. Jim
When I pulled the toe rails on my '74 O'Day 27, the middle starboard rail had a thin black rubber gasket but the aft starboard rail had some kind of white stuff that was an elastic adhesive. It was very hard to get the toe rail off. I had to lift the end of the rail with a 16 inch wrecking bar, then use a serated pocket knife to cut through the stretched white adhesive. Does anyone know what this adhesive/sealant is? Is polysulfide that adhesive? Is 4200 that elastic? I've had the boat over 5 years and no one used it for 4 years before that, so the sealant is at least 10 years old. BTW, all of the other rails had some kind of dried up and cracked sealant. No wonder they were leaking. On a related note... The last time I varnished (2 years ago) I put on 9 coats of varnish. I was really dreading stripping all of that off so I bought a heat gun (I've never used one before) and a drag scraper. Thank God for heat guns, I stripped all of the wood in 6 hours. I only needed 1 coat of chemical stripper to pull the varnish out of the deeper grains. I'm now sanding to prep for Cetol Lite. Jim
Experience on a 1973 Oday 23
I have a 1973 Oday23. To your questions: 1. All the literature I have collected and my own boat hardware do not have rubber pads. 2. I have had great results with 3M4200; it makes a durable watertight seal, but can be pulled apart for hardware replacement or rebedding in future. 3. I have no other backing under the fittings. 4. Most of the original backing plates were 1/8 fiberglass discs. I agree that Stainless plates are also fine (when you switch to metal, you need to use the same metal as the bolts to avoid corrosion issues).
I have a 1973 Oday23. To your questions: 1. All the literature I have collected and my own boat hardware do not have rubber pads. 2. I have had great results with 3M4200; it makes a durable watertight seal, but can be pulled apart for hardware replacement or rebedding in future. 3. I have no other backing under the fittings. 4. Most of the original backing plates were 1/8 fiberglass discs. I agree that Stainless plates are also fine (when you switch to metal, you need to use the same metal as the bolts to avoid corrosion issues).
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