remote starter switch

[Richard19068]

I want to install a separate starter switch in my engine space so I can turn over the engine from there rather from up in the cockpit. In order to do that I have to have two wires (one from each switch) going to the male spade terminal on the starter solenoid. I was going to use one of these.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4016

Any comments on if that is a good or bad idea or some other way to do it?

Thanks

 

[Paul F]

Looks like a good idea. It will save you a little time making the connection.

 

[kloudie1]

Looks fine .. those are low current connections and only one will be flowing current at a time.. a fine solution.

 

[Richard19068]

Thanks to both for the replys. I appreciate it.

 

[Bill Roosa]

How are you going to control the throttle? It would seem that you would have to be in the cockpit for that in any case so........
perhaps I'm missing the point of starting the engine from down below.

 

[Mark Maulden]

I'm kinda with Bill. Why do you want to do it? If I'm bleeding, I just hook a trigger switch (auto pts store) with gator clips to the starter solenoid. The throttle cable to the governor is also right there for throttle control....

 

[Stu Jackson]

I bleed with the electric fuel pump, never start the engine until the bleeding is done. I have a remote (in the engine room) fuel pump shutoff switch. Our fuel pump runs all the time the ignition is on. I can control the throttle as well as the engine stop from right at the engine, the other end of those pesky cables that go up to the binnacle.

 

[Richard19068]

I'm kinda with Bill. Why do you want to do it? If I'm bleeding, I just hook a trigger switch (auto pts store) with gator clips to the starter solenoid. The throttle cable to the governor is also right there for throttle control....

I bleed with an electric fuel pump, like Stu.

I don't necesarily want to start the engine from down there, just engage the starter to turn it over. I have done this with a temporary remote starter switch with "gator clips" and it is a PITA because the access is terrible. I was recently trying to do this to run voltage drop tests to trouble shoot / diagnose a starting problem. There have been a few other times over the years that I have wanted to turn over the engine from the engine compartment to see what was going on. I am replacing the starter and thought for a few bucks and not too much extra work I could install a switch in the engine compartment which would allow me to easily do that.

Thanks for the comments.

 

[Benny17441]

Let's just say a hardwired switch is an inexpensive installation and more practical than having to install and remove alligator clips. Loose electrical connections can heat up and burn insulation on wires. Alligator clips can slip and result in a loose connection. I do use the engine starter to bleed the fuel lines and usually rely on a buddy to push the button but can see it would be a good idea to set up a switch if I had to do it alone. Anything that is simple and works is fair game even alligator clips if used with care.

 

[Ken13559]

I'm also thinking of installing a remote start switch. Plan to use off the shelf switches. Any idea how large a current flow is the start circuit? Within 2A hopefully.

 

[Dan Hill]

On my Yanmar 2GM20f I installed a standard 5 pin relay in the engine compartment that the factory starter button triggers to start the engine. This way the starter switch only has to handle the load of the relay and not the solenoid.

As an upgrade my upgrade I also installed a secondary start button right next to the relay which again only has to handle the load of the relay. Works like a charm!

I am not a fan of those piggy bank terminals. They are susceptible to vibration and fatigue from heat.

 

[Richard19068]

I'm also thinking of installing a remote start switch. Plan to use off the shelf switches. Any idea how large a current flow is the start circuit? Within 2A hopefully.

I don't have a specific answer but from noodling around the internet it looks like the draw is generally no more than about 8-10 amps. The wiring diagram for my engine includes a 20 amp fuse in the starter switch circut.

I got a switch rated at 20 amps for about $10.

 

[Richard19068]

I am not a fan of those piggy bank terminals. They are susceptible to vibration and fatigue from heat.

I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks.