We have a new '02 240. As many people have stated the motor is in a horrible spot. We are thinking about adding the conversion kit to make the throttle and gear select remotely controlled. We would probably mount it on starboard running the cables through the "scupper" hole. Any one tried this before? Would appreciate any tips you can give. I have been told that I can still tilt the motor out of the water after conversion. Hope this is true. Nathan
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Gary
placement of remote
I have a remote on my new 2002 240 and the dealer installed it immediately below the tiller with you shifting from port to starboard or the reverse. The cables are ran where the gas is stored attaching to the engine. I think this is the only logical placement on the 240...Contact me if you have questions.
I have a remote on my new 2002 240 and the dealer installed it immediately below the tiller with you shifting from port to starboard or the reverse. The cables are ran where the gas is stored attaching to the engine. I think this is the only logical placement on the 240...Contact me if you have questions.
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Crazy Dave Condon
second location
We have installed the remote controls on the starboard rear wall of the seat in a fashion that it will not interfer with the seating of the stern rail seats. IF you would like to have further info on this, contact Gregg Emerson at Hunter Marine and tell him you need to talk with me. He only gives that info out when I ask hime to do so. Crazy Dave Condon
We have installed the remote controls on the starboard rear wall of the seat in a fashion that it will not interfer with the seating of the stern rail seats. IF you would like to have further info on this, contact Gregg Emerson at Hunter Marine and tell him you need to talk with me. He only gives that info out when I ask hime to do so. Crazy Dave Condon
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Bob Kalisz
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Mark Cooper
A cheaper way
Unless you REALLY want to spend the money, there is a cheaper and, I think, much more effective solution. This is called a "Soft Patch" and I gleaned the idea from someone else, so I'm not really a genius. The "Soft Patch" consists of a bungee cord from the starboard stern rail seat support to the starboard rear side of the motor. This causes the back of the motor to go to the right. A solid line connection then goes from the left side of the motor to a 12 inch eyebolt that fits nicely in a hole on the tiller shaft. Adjust this line so that, when the tiller is centered, the motor is as well. When the tiller is moved to the right, the motor follows and vice versa. Attaching the "tiller line" with an open hook allows it to be disconnected easily when not in use. Now, when you are using the motor, turn the throttle handle up to almost ninety degrees so that speed adjustment can be easily accomplished by reaching back and twisting the throttle. Sure, reverse and neutral require bending backward, but it's so seldom that it's necessary to do either than I live with that. For pictures of this, go to www.geocities.com/opahay and look under projects. Like I said, it works very well for me for the last 3 seasons.
Unless you REALLY want to spend the money, there is a cheaper and, I think, much more effective solution. This is called a "Soft Patch" and I gleaned the idea from someone else, so I'm not really a genius. The "Soft Patch" consists of a bungee cord from the starboard stern rail seat support to the starboard rear side of the motor. This causes the back of the motor to go to the right. A solid line connection then goes from the left side of the motor to a 12 inch eyebolt that fits nicely in a hole on the tiller shaft. Adjust this line so that, when the tiller is centered, the motor is as well. When the tiller is moved to the right, the motor follows and vice versa. Attaching the "tiller line" with an open hook allows it to be disconnected easily when not in use. Now, when you are using the motor, turn the throttle handle up to almost ninety degrees so that speed adjustment can be easily accomplished by reaching back and twisting the throttle. Sure, reverse and neutral require bending backward, but it's so seldom that it's necessary to do either than I live with that. For pictures of this, go to www.geocities.com/opahay and look under projects. Like I said, it works very well for me for the last 3 seasons.
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Don Kovacs
Remote Cables and throttle
I did ...I had a Johnson Marine 9 HP. We ran the controls through the Bulkhead ( had to remove and replace some foam) and built a small console (fiberglass) to my right. I modeled it with foan first to judge the size and the ability to install the meters. Then molded the fiberglass enclosure. I added a fuel gaulge, ammeter and Volt meter too. I have an alternator on my engine.
I did ...I had a Johnson Marine 9 HP. We ran the controls through the Bulkhead ( had to remove and replace some foam) and built a small console (fiberglass) to my right. I modeled it with foan first to judge the size and the ability to install the meters. Then molded the fiberglass enclosure. I added a fuel gaulge, ammeter and Volt meter too. I have an alternator on my engine.
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Daniel
Best way to go
Hi, I have a H240 and had the dealer install the remote control from Nissan (I have a Nissan 5 H / 4 cyc ) right below the tiller arm. Was best move I have done to the boat. It was quite a reach to try and reach back to change from forward / reverse when docking etc. In the position where it is now, I can easily sit on the starbord side of the cockpit and control the engine using the remote, stear the boat with both the tiller and engine arm. The cables run stright forward from the engine, through the gas tank space, and then though a small hole (size of a fifty cent piece) in the fiberglass. I can tilt up the engine with no problems. Good luck, Daniel
Hi, I have a H240 and had the dealer install the remote control from Nissan (I have a Nissan 5 H / 4 cyc ) right below the tiller arm. Was best move I have done to the boat. It was quite a reach to try and reach back to change from forward / reverse when docking etc. In the position where it is now, I can easily sit on the starbord side of the cockpit and control the engine using the remote, stear the boat with both the tiller and engine arm. The cables run stright forward from the engine, through the gas tank space, and then though a small hole (size of a fifty cent piece) in the fiberglass. I can tilt up the engine with no problems. Good luck, Daniel
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