Relocating the outboard mount

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May 5, 2009
14
Hunter 25.5 Apollo Beach
Does anyone have experience in relocating an outboard mount. My '82 25.5 doesn't have a swim ladder so I'm adding a small custom swim platform + ladder for the starboard side. (My sweet wife likes to swim and if she's happy I'm happy). I'd like to gain an extra few inches by moving the outboard motor mount about 6 - 8 inches to port. Re-using the holes for one of the two mounts, plugging/filling the two vacants and adding two new holes. The folks @ Hunter say I need to reinforce the transom if I move mount laterally but how much reinforcement? Planning to switch from my older but lighter 2 stroke to a newer 4 stroke as well.. Also curious about suggestions for the actual mount. Looking for all the advice I can get before poking holes in a perfectly good boat. :confused:
 
Oct 3, 2006
1,029
Hunter 29.5 Toms River
A piece of 3/4 inch plywood, as wide as your motor mount and going the entire height of the transom, glassed in at the top and bottom and epoxied to the transom, should be good.
 
Jan 22, 2003
744
Hunter 25_73-83 Burlington NJ
Refastening or relocating H-25 outboard-motor mount

Lpenrose, I am doing the same thing. The caveat I would offer you is about compression vs tension. Most people think they have to support the motor mount from falling off the boat. They beef up the mounting bolts and provide huge washers and backing plates, etc. In fact the only time you worry about that is when engaging reverse gear. The real issue is in beefing up the transom itself to take the compression of 9.9 HP pushing on it against water that's 8 times as dense as air.

It is vital that you spread the load of the two mounting rails over a bigger surface than they actually cover. I worked on a guy's 25.5 and his mount is (in the infinite wisdom of the post-Cherubini Hunter '80s) simply bolted to the transom... that 's it. Needless to say there are spider cracks all through the gelcoat in that area. The transom is slowly caving in from the press of the motor's thrust.

What I recommended to him (and am doing to my 1st-gen H-25) is a pair of G-10 plates, cut about 3/8" wider all the way round, bonded to the hull (use 5200 or epoxy) and then the motor mount bolted through those. This is a little better than the rails placing the whole load on the transom alone. I would have made them bigger but the transom is curved and G-10 doesn't like to be bent (in fact it just doesn't bend). So I elected to make vertical plates. The 5200 will actually provide a bit of 'give' further sparing the transom surface from a pointed load.

As for the backing plate inside the transom, with most of the thrust issue solved I just pierced the old plywood in places and pumped it full of epoxy like I've done to nearly every other old bit of wood on this boat. It is rejuvenated enough to not need replacing-- and again, as I said, the real issue is on the other side of the load, not here, so I don't really care about the plywood inside the boat any more than this.

I have solved the boarding-ladder issue for Diana by designing a very narrow folding ladder that mounts on my narrow IOR-era transom beside the on-center motor mount. The steps are about 9-10" wide. Why do you need anything wider in an emergency? It will fold up against the stern rail like a regular one. As soon as I have plans approved by my SS guy I can offer them to people.

On the subject of boarding ladders remember to have at least 2 or 3 FULL step spaces that extend BELOW the waterline, for unless you are an Olympic gymnast who can lift his foot to his chest whilst floating neck-deep in the water you will never get back aboard otherwise.
 
May 5, 2009
14
Hunter 25.5 Apollo Beach
Thanks, Brian M & JCherubini,

The starboard swim platform is because swimming is an integral part of my wife's on the water enjoyment and happiness.

I'm planning to have the platform made from 1" diameter 316 stainless with 0.065 wall thickness - 16 inches wide and 12 inches deep with a single step between the platform and the top of the deck. The welder says we can combine the platform and step to the stern rails and make a "walk through" so you don't have to climb over the rail but can unclip the new lifeline and step down and have hand rails. We'll leave the existing verticals but add two new ones eighteen inches apart and drop the existing horizontal rail down to 2 inches above the transom connecting the two new verticals and the now shortened existing vertical. An additional 3 rung swim ladder extending down from the platform that can fold up the 18 inches up the the transom.

This puts one edge of the swim platform basically in the center of the boat, necessitating a lateral move for the motor. I'm wondering if I do all this re-inforcing both inside and out (which seems reasonable) if perhaps I could/should put a solid mount (which incorporated much of this reinforcing) rather than the mounts that drop the motor a the 4-6 inches. If I placed it right could just the engine tilt get the motor out of the water far enough when not in use (at dock and when sailing)?
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
Here is a swim platform utilizing the ladder: http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/in...&cat_id=38&aid=6979&page=article&mn=37-cutter . From a former contributor to our site.

Unless you have an unusual engine mount I don't think you can tilt the motor enough if at all. You want a mount that lifts the engine straight up and out of the water.

As for reinforcement the transom is pretty stout to begin with. I would epoxy a piece of 1/2" plywood on the inside only. Make it as large as you can easily fit back there. You will have more strain on the ladder than the motor applies.
 
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