I want to relocate my traveler from my cockpit to the top of the cabin. I'm not positive what I will need. I have a 1978, 27'. I wanted to seek some advice before I got too deep into it. ??
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Start with Garhauer
Garhauer makes reasonably priced gear of all kinds. See their website for a traveler with towers to span the companionway. Or you could move the one you already own by making your own towers with a mounting plate. Maybe a piece of 1/4" stainless plate. Then you will need to add bales to the boom. You will probably want three with three sets of blocks to get the necessary purchase. It requires much more leverage. Check out the boats around you that have mid-boom sheeting. My own traveler(H37C) is in the cockpit and I plan to keep it there. Nothing better for sail handling than end-boom sheeting.
Garhauer makes reasonably priced gear of all kinds. See their website for a traveler with towers to span the companionway. Or you could move the one you already own by making your own towers with a mounting plate. Maybe a piece of 1/4" stainless plate. Then you will need to add bales to the boom. You will probably want three with three sets of blocks to get the necessary purchase. It requires much more leverage. Check out the boats around you that have mid-boom sheeting. My own traveler(H37C) is in the cockpit and I plan to keep it there. Nothing better for sail handling than end-boom sheeting.
H-27 Traveler
I had a 1979 H-27 for ~15 years. I did the modification you are planning (at the same time I added wheel steering). Once you go to mid-boom sheeting you will not have as good control over the main. This applies mostly to shaping the main. Regardless, I lived with this change for over 10 years. There are several travlers available for this job. Look at the catalogs. You will need the 1/4 s/s backing plates. I used thin pieces of teak to cover the cutouts on the cabin overhead.
I had a 1979 H-27 for ~15 years. I did the modification you are planning (at the same time I added wheel steering). Once you go to mid-boom sheeting you will not have as good control over the main. This applies mostly to shaping the main. Regardless, I lived with this change for over 10 years. There are several travlers available for this job. Look at the catalogs. You will need the 1/4 s/s backing plates. I used thin pieces of teak to cover the cutouts on the cabin overhead.
I've wanted to to the same
I'd be interested to know what equipment you've selected if you do the change. I've always been leerie of how to fix the towers to the cabin top when the headliner is fiberglass. Howard Nelson Nelsonhow@netscape.com
I'd be interested to know what equipment you've selected if you do the change. I've always been leerie of how to fix the towers to the cabin top when the headliner is fiberglass. Howard Nelson Nelsonhow@netscape.com
I moved mine
I moved using old track and gear from previous location. Building teak blocks and cross piece. Works great. Added room is fantastic.
I moved using old track and gear from previous location. Building teak blocks and cross piece. Works great. Added room is fantastic.
I moved mine
I moved using old track and gear from previous location. Building teak blocks and cross piece. Works great. Added room is fantastic. Also built the companion way door and replaced hatch slides.
I moved using old track and gear from previous location. Building teak blocks and cross piece. Works great. Added room is fantastic. Also built the companion way door and replaced hatch slides.
Backing Plate
The Pic looks great. What kind of backing plate did you use on the underside. How did you deal with the fiberglass headliner on the interior? Inquiring minds want to know Thanks HN
The Pic looks great. What kind of backing plate did you use on the underside. How did you deal with the fiberglass headliner on the interior? Inquiring minds want to know Thanks HN
Backing Plate with picture
Cut a hole in the liner. Used threaded SS rod with washers top and bottom. The back plate is 1/4" x 1" X 8" stainless plate with two holes for the threaded rod. The angle stainless is 8" long to distribute the stresses over a greater area. Also, the stainless runs starboard/port, not for and aft. (I did this to allow for the installation of a double clutch on the starboard side. I am going to take a better picture of the liner and post tomorrow.
Cut a hole in the liner. Used threaded SS rod with washers top and bottom. The back plate is 1/4" x 1" X 8" stainless plate with two holes for the threaded rod. The angle stainless is 8" long to distribute the stresses over a greater area. Also, the stainless runs starboard/port, not for and aft. (I did this to allow for the installation of a double clutch on the starboard side. I am going to take a better picture of the liner and post tomorrow.
Attachments
traveler move
Dear Sir I just moved my traveler on my 1977 hunter to the top of my cabin. I fabricated a new mounting system from wood and fiberglassed it. I would sugest buying a system that will mount to the top of the cabin. HARKEN SELLS ONE. I will need to rerig the boom to accomidate this new location. I also will need to mount a small winch or line lock to handle main sheet. Good luck
Dear Sir I just moved my traveler on my 1977 hunter to the top of my cabin. I fabricated a new mounting system from wood and fiberglassed it. I would sugest buying a system that will mount to the top of the cabin. HARKEN SELLS ONE. I will need to rerig the boom to accomidate this new location. I also will need to mount a small winch or line lock to handle main sheet. Good luck
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