Refitting Hunter 40-1, need some advice...

[Canuck Sailorguy]

I purchased a 1987 Hunter 40 through a boatyard who owned it after the previous owner passed away and the family did not keep up the yard bills.
The boat has been sitting on the hard since 2017, and there are of course some issues. We’ve power washed and sanitized the boat inside and out and it is already a noticeable improvement in odor and appearance.
The teak and holly sole is in terrible condition. I’m simply going to recover it with a vinyl product and go with a different look.
I have the cushions, although the fabric is finished so I will have those recovered.
My main concern, because my current boat has an encapsulated keel,, is the keel bolts. Can anybody here describe the process of inspecting them, and what is acceptable in terms of the so-called Hunter smile?
Also, the icebox in the galley - is it actually insulated, and if so, how well? I’m considering installing a proper fridge freezer unit in it.
I’d be appreciative of any comments or suggestions anybody might have that would help me with this project.

 

[dmax]

Regarding the keel bolts, (on the hard) you want to locate all of them and take the nuts and washers/plates off, clean the bolts and look carefully for any corrosion. Make sure the sealant around the seals is in good shape. Put the nuts and washers back on and torque to factory specs (start from the middle bolts and work out). As far as the smile, a picture would help but if it on the smaller side (2 feet max): make sure your keel is stable and secure (i.e. doesn't move) - dig out as much of the keel-to-hull bedding as you can and refill with 3M 5200. Keel smiles are often caused by improper blocking when on the hard. If caused by a grounding, more inspection might be warranted.

And, that is quite a project you're taking on but it looks like it will be a nice boat when done. Cool dog.

 

[jssailem]

• the keel bolts.
• Can anybody here describe the process of inspecting them,
• and what is acceptable in terms of the so-called Hunter smile?

Also, the icebox in the galley - is it actually insulated, and if so, how well? I’m considering installing a proper fridge freezer unit in it.

It is great to have a crew member on the boat helping without judging.

@dmax described the process for the keel bolts. You may need to lift the boat to see any gaps or issues (movement) of the keel.

The images help to get an idea of the inside condition. If you seek clarity on the above questions providing images of what you see (i.e. Keel, keel stub, keel smile, keel bolts) would help to get useful responses. Look for cracking along the keel to hull joint. It is often adhered using 3m 5200, then smoothed and shaped with an epoxy filler, sanded to shape, then painted.

 

[marcham]

Welcome to the forum!

Nice to see another boat brought back to service and avoid the dumpster....

It looks like the damage was caused by about 4-6 inches of water above the cabin sole? If so, then I'd consider replacing any wiring that goes through the bottom of the hull as well.

Seems from the photos that you already have the Nova Kool unit ready to go! I've installed several.... no complaints. In most cases, I've had to switch the compressor to low speed. Once cold, the duty cycle should be anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes each hour. If it's running more than 50% of the time, you'd likely benefit from extra insulation. Most boat fridge/freezers are not particularly well insulated from the factory, usually about 1" of spray foam.

In your case, you likely have access from the stove.... speaking of stove, are the propane lines original? If so, those are also likely ready to be replaced.

As for the keelbolts, what do they look like from the bilge (remove one nut at a time....)? Does the keel/hull joint appear compromised? Unfortunately, you have no way of knowing if water got between the keelbolts and the hull.... as you likely haven't seen it come out of the water? Replacing the keelbolts is a very big job, probably $8000-$12000 depending on the yard. So replacing the bolts (which requires dropping the keel) is something that should only be done if there is evidence of a compromised structure. When you drop the keel, there's a good chance that some glass from the bottom of the boat will rip off....

One less intrusive test you can do is ask the yard to lift the boat. Does the crack between the hull and keel open up?

1 day at a time... bit by bit.... she'll come back to life. Focus on the stuff that gets you boating first (engine, DC electrical system).... the rest is all optional when you really think of it.... My task list for my refit went from 25 to 55 items.... almost 3 years later and now that we're nearly done I think there was about 120 different small tasks to tackle! Just applied compound / polish / wax to the whole hull..... I was sure I'd get that done in month 1, that was 34 months ago!

 

[Canuck Sailorguy]

Thanks for the input, most helpful. Re your comments about the keelbolts - I'm attaching photos of the bolts from above (correction, I am trying to attach photos, and they aren't loading). As you can see, there is only some surface rust on them, from the standing water that was in the boat from being left to sit there. The bottom paint looks fresh, as if the work on the keel were finished, and the caulk in the seam looks tired due to age, but otherwise seems ok.
The joint doesn't appear compromised in any way, and there is no "cupping" or stress fracturing of the fibreglass at the back end of the keel that would indicate a hard grounding. Nor is there any indication from the inside.
I'm actually fairly confident that the keel bolts were replaced by the former owner, given what I can see, but I'd like to be sure before trusting my life to them.
You're correct that there was water above the sole, but it didn't go all the way to the front of the boat, as can be seen from the cabin sole. The scuppers were plugged and the water leaked in through the control panel in the cockpit. The entire floor will be recovered since the teak and holly simply aren't recoverable, sorry to say.
I was thinking of drilling some pilot holes in the icebox to see just how much insulation is there. If inadequate, which is the norm, I plan to use spray foam insulation through those same holes, since access to the icebox is impossible without tearing out the cabinets. I may just use the spray foam anyway to be on the safe side.
I'm working my way through the 12 volt wiring now. I have lithium batteries with bluetooth, so I can test each circuit individually and the app shows me if there's any current flowing from the battery when there shouldn't be. So far so good.




As for the keelbolts, what do they look like from the bilge (remove one nut at a time....)? Does the keel/hull joint appear compromised? Unfortunately, you have no way of knowing if water got between the keelbolts and the hull.... as you likely haven't seen it come out of the water? Replacing the keelbolts is a very big job, probably $8000-$12000 depending on the yard. So replacing the bolts (which requires dropping the keel) is something that should only be done if there is evidence of a compromised structure. When you drop the keel, there's a good chance that some glass from the bottom of the boat will rip off....


[/QUOTE]

 

[marcham]

I've seen a lot worst. I bet a stainless brush will take 95% of the scum and light surface corrosion away. If there's no smile when she's in the slings, I'd move on to other projects.

A few things that come to mind from the photos:
1) Bonding system of the keelbolts.... crimps are not sealed. Wire should be cut back and a heat-shrink ring terminal applied. Is this wiring tinned? If not, replace!
2) There's a black and brown wire going through a small hole in the fiberglass. The wires should be protected in split loom to avoid a short which could be caused by chafing.
3) Same with that presumably coolant hose? Another way of fixing this is putting split loom all along the edge of the opening (ie: make a donut with it!)

If you're pulling new wires: black and white are only for 120V AC! Use yellow for the negative for the DC systems.

 

[danooxnard]

You may want to rethink the insulation plan for the refrigerator. Drilling hole to check depth of insulation is fine. But if you spray foam in the holes to add more insulation you may glue the refrigerator in place making future removal a real pain. I have had to remove several objects that where foamed in place and it is not easy! I would suggest testing the refrigerator first and seeing if it is areal problem before taking action. Just my thoughts.
dano

 

[dmax]

The keel bolts look good - get some Spotless Stainless or Wichinox to treat the stainless steel, it will remove the rust and re-passivate the SS. I would still remove, clean and re-torque the keel nuts.