Does anyone have a clever way to refinish the wood slats on the seats? We have a Vision 32 and even with covers, the varnish from the last time it was done (unknown) is starting to wear thin. The slats are removeable, but what a job to remove, hold, sand, varnish, dry and then replace in the correct order! I've thought about using a masking tool in the form of a miniblind blade, being thin, flexable and long. That way, the slats would stay on the boat...
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I'd remove them and strip.
Tom: If I were you, I'd remove the slats and strip them down to bear wood. Then build up your coats of finish. When you remove them just number and label them so you know the difference from Port and Starboard seat and the sequence that they came off.
Tom: If I were you, I'd remove the slats and strip them down to bear wood. Then build up your coats of finish. When you remove them just number and label them so you know the difference from Port and Starboard seat and the sequence that they came off.
Agreed
Tom, I have done our's before. I think Steve is giving you the best advice. I didn't wait until they were completely gone. I sanded them, used oxalic acid on the dark spots, rinsed and dried them. I then refinished them. With a portable drill, they were not a big problem. ours are mounted on starboard. I took the whole thing home. If you can believe it, I actually enjoyed doing them. The stern seats and the grab rail on the companionway slide are the only exposed teak on the 376.
They held up for 4 years. That was 5 coats of Cetol, not as long as I had hoped. good luck, Mike D
Tom, I have done our's before. I think Steve is giving you the best advice. I didn't wait until they were completely gone. I sanded them, used oxalic acid on the dark spots, rinsed and dried them. I then refinished them. With a portable drill, they were not a big problem. ours are mounted on starboard. I took the whole thing home. If you can believe it, I actually enjoyed doing them. The stern seats and the grab rail on the companionway slide are the only exposed teak on the 376.
They held up for 4 years. That was 5 coats of Cetol, not as long as I had hoped. good luck, Mike Dsuggestions
When you take off the wood, make sure that you also coat the bottoms as the varnish will start to peel at the bottom when in place since condesation is getting between the bottom of the wood and the surface. Also, on the first two coats, cut it by 50% so it can soak into the pours. lightly sand after each time. Miniwax makes the helmsman varnish which I find is good and esaily obtainable anywhere. However, Ephanine is also a good choice as well. If you put on enough coats the first time, then the following year you only need to sand lightly and add one coat. kCrazy Dave Condon
When you take off the wood, make sure that you also coat the bottoms as the varnish will start to peel at the bottom when in place since condesation is getting between the bottom of the wood and the surface. Also, on the first two coats, cut it by 50% so it can soak into the pours. lightly sand after each time. Miniwax makes the helmsman varnish which I find is good and esaily obtainable anywhere. However, Ephanine is also a good choice as well. If you put on enough coats the first time, then the following year you only need to sand lightly and add one coat. kCrazy Dave Condon
Bear wood?
Is bear wood made by bears or is it wood that's made from bears? Is it related to dogwood? (sorry, Steve, I couldn't resist) I strip them, use oxalic acid where needed, then give them a couple of heavy doses of teak oil. I let them dry a couple of days, then put a barrier coat of tung oil on. After that, I apply myl coats of Captain's varnish. I go several years between full refinishings. I just touch up every spring with a light sanding and top coat. I use the same routine on all my exterior teak. Everyone says I have the best teak in the marina. Take your time between coats. It's a good project for February, while you're waiting for Spring.
Is bear wood made by bears or is it wood that's made from bears? Is it related to dogwood? (sorry, Steve, I couldn't resist) I strip them, use oxalic acid where needed, then give them a couple of heavy doses of teak oil. I let them dry a couple of days, then put a barrier coat of tung oil on. After that, I apply myl coats of Captain's varnish. I go several years between full refinishings. I just touch up every spring with a light sanding and top coat. I use the same routine on all my exterior teak. Everyone says I have the best teak in the marina. Take your time between coats. It's a good project for February, while you're waiting for Spring.
Yes Gene, BEAR WOOD!
Bear wood is grown in the forests of Thailand and Cambodia. They are nourished by the urine of a tiny bear over there that no man has ever seen. PS: thank you for the correction regarding BEAR (bare) WOOD! <g>
Bear wood is grown in the forests of Thailand and Cambodia. They are nourished by the urine of a tiny bear over there that no man has ever seen. PS: thank you for the correction regarding BEAR (bare) WOOD! <g>
any special TONGUE oil!
Gene: Do you use any special Tung oil on these exterior finishes. Daly's interior (maybe exterior too) are a mixture of tung oil and other products. I am asking because of the UV protection that are in some products.
Gene: Do you use any special Tung oil on these exterior finishes. Daly's interior (maybe exterior too) are a mixture of tung oil and other products. I am asking because of the UV protection that are in some products.
Ordinary tung oil base
...is what I use. I rely on the UV protection in the varnish top coats. The only reason I use the tung oil is that it doesn't mind if the underlying wood is a little oily, whereas the varnish does. It seals the rejuvenating oil in, and sets up a nice base for the varnish coats. Plenty of people skip the oil and get good results. I just think that if you are a block of wood that sees nothing but blazing sun and people's butts, that you deserve to get a a little oil massage once a year. I never varnish the teak and holly cabin sole. I saturate it with teak oil (I think it smells great), and let it sit for a week before wiping off the excess (what else is there to do in February?). Stays looking brand new without being slippery.
...is what I use. I rely on the UV protection in the varnish top coats. The only reason I use the tung oil is that it doesn't mind if the underlying wood is a little oily, whereas the varnish does. It seals the rejuvenating oil in, and sets up a nice base for the varnish coats. Plenty of people skip the oil and get good results. I just think that if you are a block of wood that sees nothing but blazing sun and people's butts, that you deserve to get a a little oil massage once a year. I never varnish the teak and holly cabin sole. I saturate it with teak oil (I think it smells great), and let it sit for a week before wiping off the excess (what else is there to do in February?). Stays looking brand new without being slippery.
Exterior products available.
Gene: I was wondering because there are exterior products available. One of the companies is WaterLox. Thanks for the info. PS Have you ever seen BearWood finished with Tounge oil?<g>
Gene: I was wondering because there are exterior products available. One of the companies is WaterLox. Thanks for the info. PS Have you ever seen BearWood finished with Tounge oil?<g>
Sould I say thanks? I can bear it!
Ok guys- I think some of you should get out more! I'm going to bring home one of the seats today to see how it goes with taking off the slats. It's been raining today, and there is still no wind, so it's ok to do a little maintenance.
Ok guys- I think some of you should get out more! I'm going to bring home one of the seats today to see how it goes with taking off the slats. It's been raining today, and there is still no wind, so it's ok to do a little maintenance.
Ah, Tom: One Thing
When I took mine home to do, I found I needed a supply of slightly larger and also longer screws to re-assemble the slats. And, number each one and label the bow side so that they go back the way they came off. They are not uniformly drilled. I didn't once and had to resort to using my wife to re-assemble them since she has a lot more patience. They look good varnished, but a gloss oil is good looking too. I used a paint guard when I varnished with a small foam brush and it went OK. Good luck. How's the job search going? Rick D.
When I took mine home to do, I found I needed a supply of slightly larger and also longer screws to re-assemble the slats. And, number each one and label the bow side so that they go back the way they came off. They are not uniformly drilled. I didn't once and had to resort to using my wife to re-assemble them since she has a lot more patience. They look good varnished, but a gloss oil is good looking too. I used a paint guard when I varnished with a small foam brush and it went OK. Good luck. How's the job search going? Rick D.
Making covers for stern (screamin') seats
We are refinishing our stern seat slats this winter and my mate is making covers for them that will be put on when we are not on the boat. Probably out of Sunbrella.
We are refinishing our stern seat slats this winter and my mate is making covers for them that will be put on when we are not on the boat. Probably out of Sunbrella.
Rick- thanks for asking about the job search..
Things are NOT going at all well here in NorCal. I'm picking up some consulting here and there, and the $330/wk UI is great. sort of... Anyway, As always, your comments on boat use & maintainence are right on the money. I am going to look a bit more carefully at the slats and decide what to do... And yes, I do have covers for all three slatted areas. It's a big help! More in another message...
Things are NOT going at all well here in NorCal. I'm picking up some consulting here and there, and the $330/wk UI is great. sort of... Anyway, As always, your comments on boat use & maintainence are right on the money. I am going to look a bit more carefully at the slats and decide what to do... And yes, I do have covers for all three slatted areas. It's a big help! More in another message...
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