Hi, I am a new hunter owner. I bought a '86 40' Legend that had taken on water. It is a beautiful boat, however, the previous owner had totally removed the cabin interior and steam cleaned the hull interior. He methodically removed each piece and labeled it. So, my task is to reassemble the entire cabin. The exterior is in awesome condition with all new everything! rigging, electronics, custom arch, new sails, It looks pristine from the outside. but when you see inside, it is empty. My first task is to rewire the hull while the guts are out. In the meantime, I have been thinking about refinishing the cabin sole, which I think will probably be the next thing I install. It appears to be a teak & holly veneer (from what ive read) on marine plywood. I doubt it has ever been refinished before, so I think i would be safe sanding the sole. My question is: I am seeing so many different methods and conflicting products etc., what is the easiest way to get the floor to look decent (not necessarily perfection)? I started sanding one section of the sole with 100 grit, then 180, and im gonna finish with 220. Is this the proper approach? What "coating" should I apply? Im reading about one part, two part varnish, polyurethane, interlux, minwax, too many options. Heres my intended approach, please tell me if I am wrong: I am sanding from course (120) to finest (220), I am NOT getting all the way through the old finish as far as I know, but I could be getting close. I know the veneer is thin. I am ASSUMING that there is no need to fully remove the old finish? Then I planned on coating with the most affordable finish I can find, which may not even be "marine" grade. I was thinking Minwax Schooner or Minwax Super Fast-Drying Polyurethane for Floors, or possibly an interlux product. But thats where I get lost. Interlux doesnt provide much info on cabin soles that I can find. I would prefer to save money if possible and use minwax, even if it wont last as long. Im a young guy with a very small budget and this boat is about to sink me with all the expenses of trucking, storage, parts, etc. Is there a simple product someone can suggest that will be affordable, and give a decent, easy finish? Is there anything I need to know about this particular boat when doing this type of work? Also, has anyone undertaken such a large project as rebuilding the entire cabin? and can you offer me any time saving advice? Like, I shouldnt do "this or that" before I do "this or that"? I plan on rewiring, installing the cabin sole, then going to town on the interior. I have all of the pieces and they are for the most part in excellent condition. some of it wouldnt even require refinishing. Thank you!
- Status
Very thin veneer
I think you will find that the veneer is VERY thin. If you have a completely gutted interior, I would replace the sole or use one of the synthetic products (like most of the newer production boats)over your existing sole. As far as the wiring, the runs that are in the headliner will probably be the most challenging. I don't think that these models had access, so you will probably need to use the existing wires to pull new wire through the. I would take a look at Blue Sea stuff if you are going to completely re-wire. They make nice panels. If you are looking for cushion, check out US Yacht Cushions. I believe that they have the patterns and do good work at a reasonable price. You can save the freight cost by driving down to Fl. to pick up the product too. If you post some pictures of what you are working with, you may get some other input and some new ideas too.
I think you will find that the veneer is VERY thin. If you have a completely gutted interior, I would replace the sole or use one of the synthetic products (like most of the newer production boats)over your existing sole. As far as the wiring, the runs that are in the headliner will probably be the most challenging. I don't think that these models had access, so you will probably need to use the existing wires to pull new wire through the. I would take a look at Blue Sea stuff if you are going to completely re-wire. They make nice panels. If you are looking for cushion, check out US Yacht Cushions. I believe that they have the patterns and do good work at a reasonable price. You can save the freight cost by driving down to Fl. to pick up the product too. If you post some pictures of what you are working with, you may get some other input and some new ideas too.
more info
thanks for the input. The boat took on water from the stern to about midships. It wasnt a total sinking. however the owner decided to take it all apart and have a company come in and steam clean the entire cabin. Almost everything was salvageable and dried out. I even have the cushions and cushion covers in perfect shape. he had them dry cleaned. I have every single piece of the boat, it just needs to be put back together. The only thing that was permanently damaged was the wiring, and the fridge, a/c, and anything that was electrical. There are some pieces of flooring that need a little attention, it looks like a couple pieces may have been pried out of the boat, but overall its in great shape. He must have immediately disassembled the boat, b/c its in pretty good shape. The worst part is b/c it sat for a couple years and got dirty. I also have the original distribution panel and plan on just rebuilding it and keeping it. I even have brand new instruments & chartplotter & radar that were all above the waterline and are fine. So, the cabin is totally empty, and the fiberglass looks like brand new inside!
thanks for the input. The boat took on water from the stern to about midships. It wasnt a total sinking. however the owner decided to take it all apart and have a company come in and steam clean the entire cabin. Almost everything was salvageable and dried out. I even have the cushions and cushion covers in perfect shape. he had them dry cleaned. I have every single piece of the boat, it just needs to be put back together. The only thing that was permanently damaged was the wiring, and the fridge, a/c, and anything that was electrical. There are some pieces of flooring that need a little attention, it looks like a couple pieces may have been pried out of the boat, but overall its in great shape. He must have immediately disassembled the boat, b/c its in pretty good shape. The worst part is b/c it sat for a couple years and got dirty. I also have the original distribution panel and plan on just rebuilding it and keeping it. I even have brand new instruments & chartplotter & radar that were all above the waterline and are fine. So, the cabin is totally empty, and the fiberglass looks like brand new inside!
Refinishing Cabin Sole
At various times in my boating life I have both refinished and replaced cabin soles. If your boards are not warped and the bottoms are sound then you might want to try and refinish them. Since the veneer surface is very thin, strip the old finish off before you do anything else. I have used orange citrus stripper with very good results - buy it at Home Depot or some place like that. Once the old finish is off, very lightly sand the boards with 220 or 320 grit paper on a block or palm sander. This is only to take off the nap raised by the stripper. I have used Minwax Spar Varnish and Ultimate Sole finishing products with good results. The Minwax is cheaper but the Ultimate Sole gives a much better finish which is not as slippery. If the boards are not in good shape then use them as templates to make new ones. Most marine grade teak and holly flooring is 12 mm (about 1/2 inch) and should be available by special order from major millwork or lumber suppliers. I am not sure what is available in your area but I use Exotic Lumber in Annapolis. They may ship but I don't know that for a fact. If you make new boards the finishing is the same as redoing the old boards except there is no stripping. As far as the rest of the cabin, I am not really familiar with your boat so I don't know how it was orinally assembled but reassembly should not be that difficult if you follow some basic rules. (1) Always dry fit subassemblies before you glue or screw. (2) If you are using existing screw holes to replace furniture you should first fill them with exterior grade wood putty or epoxy to give the new screw something solid to bite into. (3) Work from the bottom up because that is most likely how the boat was built originally. And (4), this is the time to fix any problems with the original design. For example, it is impossible for anyone with short arms to check the engine oil on my 2003 H356 so I will be installing a door in the aft cabin that will allow easy access to the starboard side of the engine. I think that later H360s had this feature but that does not do me any good.
At various times in my boating life I have both refinished and replaced cabin soles. If your boards are not warped and the bottoms are sound then you might want to try and refinish them. Since the veneer surface is very thin, strip the old finish off before you do anything else. I have used orange citrus stripper with very good results - buy it at Home Depot or some place like that. Once the old finish is off, very lightly sand the boards with 220 or 320 grit paper on a block or palm sander. This is only to take off the nap raised by the stripper. I have used Minwax Spar Varnish and Ultimate Sole finishing products with good results. The Minwax is cheaper but the Ultimate Sole gives a much better finish which is not as slippery. If the boards are not in good shape then use them as templates to make new ones. Most marine grade teak and holly flooring is 12 mm (about 1/2 inch) and should be available by special order from major millwork or lumber suppliers. I am not sure what is available in your area but I use Exotic Lumber in Annapolis. They may ship but I don't know that for a fact. If you make new boards the finishing is the same as redoing the old boards except there is no stripping. As far as the rest of the cabin, I am not really familiar with your boat so I don't know how it was orinally assembled but reassembly should not be that difficult if you follow some basic rules. (1) Always dry fit subassemblies before you glue or screw. (2) If you are using existing screw holes to replace furniture you should first fill them with exterior grade wood putty or epoxy to give the new screw something solid to bite into. (3) Work from the bottom up because that is most likely how the boat was built originally. And (4), this is the time to fix any problems with the original design. For example, it is impossible for anyone with short arms to check the engine oil on my 2003 H356 so I will be installing a door in the aft cabin that will allow easy access to the starboard side of the engine. I think that later H360s had this feature but that does not do me any good.
Inspect the wire before you replace everything...
Hunter did not use tinned copper wire on our 1991 model boat. New stuff that I've added is tinned. I would be surprised if they used tinned on your model boat. Do you know how much water she took on? Terry
Hunter did not use tinned copper wire on our 1991 model boat. New stuff that I've added is tinned. I would be surprised if they used tinned on your model boat. Do you know how much water she took on? Terry
help
thanks for the ideas. response to Terry: Im not certain exactly how much water came in, the owner was kinda sketchy, and only told me that it partially sank from the stern. It did hit the 44 Yanmar, but it was immediately pickled and run for 6 hrs according to the yard. He said it sank from stern to midship. He had the interior removed asap, and had the whole cabin steam cleaned by one of those disaster recovery companies (drilled drain holes in the hull above the keel). It sank by siphoning from a faulty seacock in the head, which I need to replace. The empty cabin looks clean and the fiberglass looks new. I really want to rebuild it as soon as possible. I am on a very tight budget. I am probably what you call poor. Although, I live on an swanky island and have an obsession with boats. Way beyond my means for a young punk! The boat has pretty much sank me financially, and im strugglin to hold on to everything. I just love boats. I know its an expensive hobby, but its all i breathe. Thats why I bought this boat. It can do double duty--its a boat and I can live on it! But I gotta do some major work to her before I can liveaboard. So, I gotta do this quick before I go "bankrupt" and lose the boat and my home. Sorry for crazy details, I just wanna explain my situation so I might get some advice on how to get the boat sailin asap, w/o spending a lot of money. I dont care if the boat doesnt look Factory new when Im done! I wanna place to live that I can sail! I know everybody is gonna say something like "you gotta do it right the first time, It'll save you money in the long run", or "if its worth doin, do it right". I DONT CARE! I want it to float, and have a berth for my head. I will fix things along the way. I need advice on how I should proceed to accomplish this goal. I think its smart to figure out something with the rewire (including bilge pumps, etc)before I put the sole back in, but maybe not? I did check some of the a/c wiring and it looked good a couple inches back. Maybe I can reuse it? Im tempted just to refinish the old sole and use it, no matter how it looks. Then I would just go to town on the cabin starting from the stern and working fore. Please give me your opinions, accounting for my situation. Btw, I do have some marine skills, but not everything. Ive worked in boatyards for years and got a few skills. I also get a discount on most any parts/supplies I would need which should help. I started a little service company awhile back and have all the accounts at suppliers. But I might be able to afford $100-150/ every two weeks to get by with. insane right? Thats why I will use Minwax instead of Interlux. Any advice would be appreciated. I need to have her floating by march 1, no matter what.
thanks for the ideas. response to Terry: Im not certain exactly how much water came in, the owner was kinda sketchy, and only told me that it partially sank from the stern. It did hit the 44 Yanmar, but it was immediately pickled and run for 6 hrs according to the yard. He said it sank from stern to midship. He had the interior removed asap, and had the whole cabin steam cleaned by one of those disaster recovery companies (drilled drain holes in the hull above the keel). It sank by siphoning from a faulty seacock in the head, which I need to replace. The empty cabin looks clean and the fiberglass looks new. I really want to rebuild it as soon as possible. I am on a very tight budget. I am probably what you call poor. Although, I live on an swanky island and have an obsession with boats. Way beyond my means for a young punk! The boat has pretty much sank me financially, and im strugglin to hold on to everything. I just love boats. I know its an expensive hobby, but its all i breathe. Thats why I bought this boat. It can do double duty--its a boat and I can live on it! But I gotta do some major work to her before I can liveaboard. So, I gotta do this quick before I go "bankrupt" and lose the boat and my home. Sorry for crazy details, I just wanna explain my situation so I might get some advice on how to get the boat sailin asap, w/o spending a lot of money. I dont care if the boat doesnt look Factory new when Im done! I wanna place to live that I can sail! I know everybody is gonna say something like "you gotta do it right the first time, It'll save you money in the long run", or "if its worth doin, do it right". I DONT CARE! I want it to float, and have a berth for my head. I will fix things along the way. I need advice on how I should proceed to accomplish this goal. I think its smart to figure out something with the rewire (including bilge pumps, etc)before I put the sole back in, but maybe not? I did check some of the a/c wiring and it looked good a couple inches back. Maybe I can reuse it? Im tempted just to refinish the old sole and use it, no matter how it looks. Then I would just go to town on the cabin starting from the stern and working fore. Please give me your opinions, accounting for my situation. Btw, I do have some marine skills, but not everything. Ive worked in boatyards for years and got a few skills. I also get a discount on most any parts/supplies I would need which should help. I started a little service company awhile back and have all the accounts at suppliers. But I might be able to afford $100-150/ every two weeks to get by with. insane right? Thats why I will use Minwax instead of Interlux. Any advice would be appreciated. I need to have her floating by march 1, no matter what.
With only thoes funds
availibal. I would move on right now and fix as you go. Did you say you had a House? Own or rent? Sounds like your single, so you have a decision to make. Eather sell the house( If you own it ) or give your land lord notice. Slip fees are not cheep so if your "Breathing boats" as you said you are, might as well breath 24/7 and put that house/rent money back into her. She will get done alot faster with you living on her and with the extra money from no house/rent payment youl have a better supply of material to work with as $100.00 in material keeps me busy for about 1 or 2 days is all. I have rebuilt two boats , and it takes longer then you think and more money then you think ( If you want to do it right ) You said your a Hippie with out long hair, so maybe your not really into the right way but just want to get by. Thats fine as long as your not planning any big Blue Water voyges in that condition. We just might have lost a young couple trying to make Canada from Hawaii, we dont know all the details so hard to say . But you can shurly set at the dock and play in the harbor ( day light hours untill prove nav. systems/lights work ) without rewiring the boat or any thing like that for the time being. Just make shur you have good electric bildg pump's and circits to them ( plural as in at least 2 ) and have one tied in to an auditabal alarm to wake you up if needed. Also make sure your bonding system is up to snuff and you have all propper Zinks and a Galvonic isolator installed so your boat dont get eatin out from under you. Also while your inspectin the wiring, pay close atention to any broken and/or non used wires laying in the bilge. This is a prime way for stray current to wreck havoc by getting into the salt water both inside the boat and out. I once had a bilge pump wire come loose, it's amasing how fast some things started to waste away. I dont know if you have been following another fellow on this site "Patrick" with the "Free boat" He is biting off way more then you are work wise. I dont know what you paid for your boat but it dosent sound in that bad condition. Im wondering why everything was riped out in the first place. It sounds like they cought it right away. I have been on a couple boats that have been knocked down and we had several hundred gallons of sea water sloshing around the top of the cabin soles. We never had to tear the boats apart to get them back in ship shape. Had to pollish the fuel and fuel tanks in one boat but lots of scrubbing and fresh water then re-oil all wood was all it took. Sounds like the engine is ok. And if all electrical pannels ,chargers, 120 outlets ect.. ect... were above high water then they are fine. Your battries are more then likely toast though if wet cells. AGM or gels shoud be ok. Take them out of the boat before charging them as they could explode with salt water in them and produce clorine gas! as well ( Right Ross *
) You will get more help then you will want from all the Knowlage thats out here.. Post some pictures and good luck. OH: and as far as that sole just put on something cheap ( 1 coat ) for now just to protect the wood from absorbing any oils,stains ect.. while your working on the boat, Just make shur its compatibal with whats already there ,test it in a corner as they could react acting like a paint striper then you have a mess!!. Then if you decide to save the sole you can do it right later, and also go to a rug store and ask for some remnents ( there real cheep or free ) I do this when working in my boat to protect the sole then just throw them away when done. Stiff Winds
availibal. I would move on right now and fix as you go. Did you say you had a House? Own or rent? Sounds like your single, so you have a decision to make. Eather sell the house( If you own it ) or give your land lord notice. Slip fees are not cheep so if your "Breathing boats" as you said you are, might as well breath 24/7 and put that house/rent money back into her. She will get done alot faster with you living on her and with the extra money from no house/rent payment youl have a better supply of material to work with as $100.00 in material keeps me busy for about 1 or 2 days is all. I have rebuilt two boats , and it takes longer then you think and more money then you think ( If you want to do it right ) You said your a Hippie with out long hair, so maybe your not really into the right way but just want to get by. Thats fine as long as your not planning any big Blue Water voyges in that condition. We just might have lost a young couple trying to make Canada from Hawaii, we dont know all the details so hard to say . But you can shurly set at the dock and play in the harbor ( day light hours untill prove nav. systems/lights work ) without rewiring the boat or any thing like that for the time being. Just make shur you have good electric bildg pump's and circits to them ( plural as in at least 2 ) and have one tied in to an auditabal alarm to wake you up if needed. Also make sure your bonding system is up to snuff and you have all propper Zinks and a Galvonic isolator installed so your boat dont get eatin out from under you. Also while your inspectin the wiring, pay close atention to any broken and/or non used wires laying in the bilge. This is a prime way for stray current to wreck havoc by getting into the salt water both inside the boat and out. I once had a bilge pump wire come loose, it's amasing how fast some things started to waste away. I dont know if you have been following another fellow on this site "Patrick" with the "Free boat" He is biting off way more then you are work wise. I dont know what you paid for your boat but it dosent sound in that bad condition. Im wondering why everything was riped out in the first place. It sounds like they cought it right away. I have been on a couple boats that have been knocked down and we had several hundred gallons of sea water sloshing around the top of the cabin soles. We never had to tear the boats apart to get them back in ship shape. Had to pollish the fuel and fuel tanks in one boat but lots of scrubbing and fresh water then re-oil all wood was all it took. Sounds like the engine is ok. And if all electrical pannels ,chargers, 120 outlets ect.. ect... were above high water then they are fine. Your battries are more then likely toast though if wet cells. AGM or gels shoud be ok. Take them out of the boat before charging them as they could explode with salt water in them and produce clorine gas! as well ( Right Ross *
) You will get more help then you will want from all the Knowlage thats out here.. Post some pictures and good luck. OH: and as far as that sole just put on something cheap ( 1 coat ) for now just to protect the wood from absorbing any oils,stains ect.. while your working on the boat, Just make shur its compatibal with whats already there ,test it in a corner as they could react acting like a paint striper then you have a mess!!. Then if you decide to save the sole you can do it right later, and also go to a rug store and ask for some remnents ( there real cheep or free ) I do this when working in my boat to protect the sole then just throw them away when done. Stiff WindsThanks Stillraining
Your post is the reassurance im looking for. That is my intention--to throw in the sole, rewire whats necessary, and secure the boat. I can work on it as i go. I am single, I rent a house on an island - $1k + bills per month, I bring home maybe $2500 (sucks, ive made much more). The boat is in beautiful condition if you see from the outside. All new gear. The interior is also beautiful, just empty. Most of the wood is good too, some just needs a soapy rag. The sole however, doesnt appear to have been treated so gingerly. Its intact for the most part, and some sections look new. However, it appears that some pieces may have been pry'ed with a crowbar, and some pieces show a little water damage from. None of it really looks bloated from water, it just kinda looks dull and scratched and abused. Even most of the cheap pressboard looks good. my problem is--how do i begin? I dont wanna screw up my steps and wish I had done something the right way instead of putting it off til i can afford it. Can I do a quick refinish on the sole and do a proper job after the boat is back together? or should i do it now and save heartache later. I want to get it in the water asap and worry about as much as possible as im living aboard. btw, im going to give the landlord notice in feb. thanks
Your post is the reassurance im looking for. That is my intention--to throw in the sole, rewire whats necessary, and secure the boat. I can work on it as i go. I am single, I rent a house on an island - $1k + bills per month, I bring home maybe $2500 (sucks, ive made much more). The boat is in beautiful condition if you see from the outside. All new gear. The interior is also beautiful, just empty. Most of the wood is good too, some just needs a soapy rag. The sole however, doesnt appear to have been treated so gingerly. Its intact for the most part, and some sections look new. However, it appears that some pieces may have been pry'ed with a crowbar, and some pieces show a little water damage from. None of it really looks bloated from water, it just kinda looks dull and scratched and abused. Even most of the cheap pressboard looks good. my problem is--how do i begin? I dont wanna screw up my steps and wish I had done something the right way instead of putting it off til i can afford it. Can I do a quick refinish on the sole and do a proper job after the boat is back together? or should i do it now and save heartache later. I want to get it in the water asap and worry about as much as possible as im living aboard. btw, im going to give the landlord notice in feb. thanks
one more thing...
the marina showed me documentation of the work they did to salvage the boat, and they are the ones that rescued it as well. The boat was literally 3 blocks from the marina when it happened, and they are a towboatUS location. Supposedly every thing was performed w/i 80 hrs of discovery. first they drained the boat by drilling holes in the hull, then they pickled the engine and ran it for 6 hrs, and a disaster company was called upon to remove the interior and steam clean. The boat was categorized as "bristol" 4 months prior to the sinking and surveyed at $96k. "top of her class". no blisters, no delam, perfect hull, stanchions perfect, many upgrades, new sails, pretty much everything was new topside. According to the owner, The insurance company stipulated that everything imaginable be performed to try to save the vessel (mainly the engine), or they would not pay it off. So, he did what he had to do, and then the insurance assesed it and totalled it. However it does not have a salvage title, and it is coast guard documented. When I called the Coast guard they said they dont have titles and "salvage" will never appear anywhere. It was not reported as sunk by the insurance company. I wouldnt sell it as a clean boat, but it will be.
the marina showed me documentation of the work they did to salvage the boat, and they are the ones that rescued it as well. The boat was literally 3 blocks from the marina when it happened, and they are a towboatUS location. Supposedly every thing was performed w/i 80 hrs of discovery. first they drained the boat by drilling holes in the hull, then they pickled the engine and ran it for 6 hrs, and a disaster company was called upon to remove the interior and steam clean. The boat was categorized as "bristol" 4 months prior to the sinking and surveyed at $96k. "top of her class". no blisters, no delam, perfect hull, stanchions perfect, many upgrades, new sails, pretty much everything was new topside. According to the owner, The insurance company stipulated that everything imaginable be performed to try to save the vessel (mainly the engine), or they would not pay it off. So, he did what he had to do, and then the insurance assesed it and totalled it. However it does not have a salvage title, and it is coast guard documented. When I called the Coast guard they said they dont have titles and "salvage" will never appear anywhere. It was not reported as sunk by the insurance company. I wouldnt sell it as a clean boat, but it will be.
put some finish on the underside.
Since you already have the sole out of the boat I'd suggest you put a coat of finish on the bottom side of the panels before you reinstal them. Hunter is well known for their cost saving techniques and the factory probably left it as bare wood on the underside. Since it's a plywood product it is more likely to delaminate down the road due to moisture available to the underside from bilge water. You can slap on a coat of polyurethane for a few dollars (get it on edge grain too) and sleep better for as long as you own the boat. Just my 2 cents.
Since you already have the sole out of the boat I'd suggest you put a coat of finish on the bottom side of the panels before you reinstal them. Hunter is well known for their cost saving techniques and the factory probably left it as bare wood on the underside. Since it's a plywood product it is more likely to delaminate down the road due to moisture available to the underside from bilge water. You can slap on a coat of polyurethane for a few dollars (get it on edge grain too) and sleep better for as long as you own the boat. Just my 2 cents.
put some finish on the underside.
Since you already have the sole out of the boat I'd suggest you put a coat of finish on the bottom side of the panels before you reinstal them. Hunter is well known for their cost saving techniques and the factory probably left it as bare wood on the underside. Since it's a plywood product it is more likely to delaminate down the road due to moisture available to the underside from bilge water. You can slap on a coat of polyurethane for a few dollars (get it on edge grain too) and sleep better for as long as you own the boat. Just my 2 cents.
Since you already have the sole out of the boat I'd suggest you put a coat of finish on the bottom side of the panels before you reinstal them. Hunter is well known for their cost saving techniques and the factory probably left it as bare wood on the underside. Since it's a plywood product it is more likely to delaminate down the road due to moisture available to the underside from bilge water. You can slap on a coat of polyurethane for a few dollars (get it on edge grain too) and sleep better for as long as you own the boat. Just my 2 cents.
Currently replacing my cabin sole
I am in the process of replacing my cabin sole in my H28.5. I know it is a different model but, here is what I am doing: I had to section the floor in 2 halves to get it out of the boat. I am doing the starboard side first as this is where I suffered rot from the shower. I am assuming this is the original floor as it was one piece. I am using Min Wax polyurethane floor varnish for the finish. I initially mixed up a "spit coat" of 3 parts varnish and 1 part mineral spirits. I applied 3 coats to the back and edges, sanding between coats using 220 grit paper. I then applied 3 coats full strenght varnish, again sanding between coats. I am repeating the same process with the topside. There is very little "traffic" on the floor due to the design of the boat. The poly floor enamel provides a very hard finish. The drawback is that it can be brittle. My floor has been redesigned to have 2 halves, reducing a lot of stress and movement. This should help. Besides, the original floor lasted 22 years. This one should last longer. I am also thinking of installing the floor using SStrim collars and screws so I can remove the floor each winter allowing access to the complete bilge. This will allow for thorough cleaning. Good luck.
I am in the process of replacing my cabin sole in my H28.5. I know it is a different model but, here is what I am doing: I had to section the floor in 2 halves to get it out of the boat. I am doing the starboard side first as this is where I suffered rot from the shower. I am assuming this is the original floor as it was one piece. I am using Min Wax polyurethane floor varnish for the finish. I initially mixed up a "spit coat" of 3 parts varnish and 1 part mineral spirits. I applied 3 coats to the back and edges, sanding between coats using 220 grit paper. I then applied 3 coats full strenght varnish, again sanding between coats. I am repeating the same process with the topside. There is very little "traffic" on the floor due to the design of the boat. The poly floor enamel provides a very hard finish. The drawback is that it can be brittle. My floor has been redesigned to have 2 halves, reducing a lot of stress and movement. This should help. Besides, the original floor lasted 22 years. This one should last longer. I am also thinking of installing the floor using SStrim collars and screws so I can remove the floor each winter allowing access to the complete bilge. This will allow for thorough cleaning. Good luck.
Currently replacing my cabin sole
I am in the process of replacing my cabin sole in my H28.5. I know it is a different model but, here is what I am doing: I had to section the floor in 2 halves to get it out of the boat. I am doing the starboard side first as this is where I suffered rot from the shower. I am assuming this is the original floor as it was one piece. I am using Min Wax polyurethane floor varnish for the finish. I initially mixed up a "spit coat" of 3 parts varnish and 1 part mineral spirits. I applied 3 coats to the back and edges, sanding between coats using 220 grit paper. I then applied 3 coats full strenght varnish, again sanding between coats. I am repeating the same process with the topside. There is very little "traffic" on the floor due to the design of the boat. The poly floor enamel provides a very hard finish. The drawback is that it can be brittle. My floor has been redesigned to have 2 halves, reducing a lot of stress and movement. This should help. Besides, the original floor lasted 22 years. This one should last longer. I am also thinking of installing the floor using SStrim collars and screws so I can remove the floor each winter allowing access to the complete bilge. This will allow for thorough cleaning. Good luck.
I am in the process of replacing my cabin sole in my H28.5. I know it is a different model but, here is what I am doing: I had to section the floor in 2 halves to get it out of the boat. I am doing the starboard side first as this is where I suffered rot from the shower. I am assuming this is the original floor as it was one piece. I am using Min Wax polyurethane floor varnish for the finish. I initially mixed up a "spit coat" of 3 parts varnish and 1 part mineral spirits. I applied 3 coats to the back and edges, sanding between coats using 220 grit paper. I then applied 3 coats full strenght varnish, again sanding between coats. I am repeating the same process with the topside. There is very little "traffic" on the floor due to the design of the boat. The poly floor enamel provides a very hard finish. The drawback is that it can be brittle. My floor has been redesigned to have 2 halves, reducing a lot of stress and movement. This should help. Besides, the original floor lasted 22 years. This one should last longer. I am also thinking of installing the floor using SStrim collars and screws so I can remove the floor each winter allowing access to the complete bilge. This will allow for thorough cleaning. Good luck.
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