Reconnecting water heater and bleeding the system?

[CowboyWay]

I currently have my water heater bypassed with the engine (Universal M25XPB) coolant lines and am looking to re-connect it now (it was replaced). Any particular way to do this that will minimize air pockets? I read a while ago about somehow filling the coil in the water heater with coolant before connecting it, but I can't see how that would work without running out all over the place? On a related note, how do you know if all the air is bled out of the coolant system?

thanks

 

[JRT]

No idea about reconnecting, but there is a air bleeder valve on the top of the engine where the coolant come in. It works really well to Crack that open while the motor runs and air is pushed out till coolant comes out. I replaced all factory coolant hoses so got very good at this process.

 

[JoeWhite]

I read a while ago about somehow filling the coil in the water heater with coolant before connecting it, but I can't see how that would work without running out all over the place? On a related note, how do you know if all the air is bled out of the coolant system?

thanks

Connect the coolant hoses to the water heater, then while both hoses are disconnected from the engine side, pour distilled water in one hose using a small funnel until water comes out of the other hose. Then connect both hoses to the engine. Fill the engine block with antifreeze from the filler cap and close the cap. Start the engine, watch the temperature. When it reaches 180F , stop the engine. On the top of the engine there are high temperature sensor. Loosen it until bubbles come out then fluid may leak out. Tighten the sensor. Make sure there is fluid in the overflow container. Start the engine and watch the temperature drop to about 160F. You can repeat this process a few times to bleed as much air as possible.

 

[Tally Ho]

Connect the coolant hoses to the water heater, then while both hoses are disconnected from the engine side, pour distilled water in one hose using a small funnel until water comes out of the other hose. Then connect both hoses to the engine. Fill the engine block with antifreeze from the filler cap and close the cap. Start the engine, watch the temperature. When it reaches 180F , stop the engine. On the top of the engine there are high temperature sensor. Loosen it until bubbles come out then fluid may leak out. Tighten the sensor. Make sure there is fluid in the overflow container. Start the engine and watch the temperature drop to about 160F. You can repeat this process a few times to bleed as much air as possible.

Curious why you would use distilled water?
In my freshwater cooled system ( in a climate that freezes…maybe that is the difference) we use anti-freeze in the cooling system.

I think that the OP is Kenosha - my brother to the North.

distilled water will freeze here

Greg

 

[JoeWhite]

Talky Ho, distilled water contains no salt and most importantly no dirt particles that wear out water pump seals. In gas stations tap water is provided for radiator, this is a good way to damage your water pump seals.
The reason you would pour distilled water in the hose using a funnel is because the hose opening is very small and the antifreeze doesn't flow like water, it remains in the funnel. Ask me how I know.
The distilled water will be mixed with the antifreeze that is in the engine and dilute it, but that is ok since no one sails in the arctic.
Good question.

 

[CowboyWay]

I agree we need anti-freeze in northern climate, but I just get the premixed 50-50.

 

[Tally Ho]

Talky Ho, distilled water contains no salt and most importantly no dirt particles that wear out water pump seals. In gas stations tap water is provided for radiator, this is a good way to damage your water pump seals.
The reason you would pour distilled water in the hose using a funnel is because the hose opening is very small and the antifreeze doesn't flow like water, it remains in the funnel. Ask me how I know.
The distilled water will be mixed with the antifreeze that is in the engine and dilute it, but that is ok since no one sails in the arctic.
Good question.

Ok…got it.

I never knew that about AF.

Here in the north though, you better be careful not to dilute the AF to the point you freeze and crack stuff (like an engine block).

Greg

 

[Hello Below]

Connect the coolant hoses to the water heater, then while both hoses are disconnected from the engine side, pour distilled water in one hose using a small funnel until water comes out of the other hose. Then connect both hoses to the engine. Fill the engine block with antifreeze from the filler cap and close the cap. Start the engine, watch the temperature. When it reaches 180F , stop the engine. On the top of the engine there are high temperature sensor. Loosen it until bubbles come out then fluid may leak out. Tighten the sensor. Make sure there is fluid in the overflow container. Start the engine and watch the temperature drop to about 160F. You can repeat this process a few times to bleed as much air as possible.

Ditto to the above. I have had good luck using a utility pump in place of using a funnel. Connect the utility pump output hose to one of the water heater hoses. Put the other water heater hose and the utility pump intake hose in a bucket. Put a suitable amount of AF in the bucket and pump away to your hearts content . . . or at least until the AF starts flowing back into the bucket. Then continue with the excellent instructions provided by @JoeWhite

Utility Pump