This is the sixth recommissioning of this boat for me. I can't believe it's that many years, and that the boat has gotten that old! I feel the same way about myself.
I have a routine, kind of, now, especially with the potable water system. It's quick and easy to recommission as well as winterize. I had redone a lot of the bastardized plumbing using the tubing and fittings Tartan originally used, Parker O-ring/Grab-ring fittings and Polybutylene tubing - since switched to LLDPE tubing. I made a bypass hose for the water heater, so I don't have to pump 10 gallons of pink through it, I just drain it into the bilge; and I made a fill hose for the input of the pump that I can put into a container of pink. I can winterize the entire water system with about 1 1/2 gallons of pink. Recommissioning I close the heater drain, revert the bypass, reconnect the tank manifold hose to the pump, reconnect the tanks to the manifold, fill the tanks, and I'm on my way.
Problem 1: this year, the "ears" on the water tank drain petcock just crumbled away due to rust. I was able to close it using a pair of pliers, but it will have to be replaced, probably when I winterize. Otherwise, all is well.
Problem 2: my bilge pump switch doesn't work. Can only pump the bilge using the manual position of the switch, which is a momentary, spring loaded position. This is a good excuse to finally install the Groco AS-100 bilge pump switch, which I've had on hand for several years. I want to get all wires out of the water, i.e., the bilge, as I think one may be contributing to my rapid zinc erosion.
Problem 3: this has existed, and is festering: the "tub" for the shower and fridge drain sump is cracked and drains into the bilge quicker than the sump pump can evacuate it. Need to seal that crack, don't know yet what will work on that material.
There are other things, but not really Tartan specific. All the engine hoses are original; one coolant hose ahas a slow leak. All hoses are due to be replaced this year. Canvas is really beautifully made, high-end stuff, but it's quite faded, and worn, and I tore a piece out today putting it on. I may just try to reproduce it myself; I have a sewing hobby, three sewing machines including a heavy duty waling foot machine, and a huge roll of Sunbrella "Toast" fabric (60" wide roll) and a cone of the matching, heavy thread. Probably an off-season project. Cabin sole needs attention - was thinking of some light sanding and then "wiping" with polyurethane, rather than a complete refinish. Head/shower drain was never correct, a design flaw, in my opinion, I'd like to remedy that with a legit, "low spot," larger drain. More, of course...it never ends.
I have a routine, kind of, now, especially with the potable water system. It's quick and easy to recommission as well as winterize. I had redone a lot of the bastardized plumbing using the tubing and fittings Tartan originally used, Parker O-ring/Grab-ring fittings and Polybutylene tubing - since switched to LLDPE tubing. I made a bypass hose for the water heater, so I don't have to pump 10 gallons of pink through it, I just drain it into the bilge; and I made a fill hose for the input of the pump that I can put into a container of pink. I can winterize the entire water system with about 1 1/2 gallons of pink. Recommissioning I close the heater drain, revert the bypass, reconnect the tank manifold hose to the pump, reconnect the tanks to the manifold, fill the tanks, and I'm on my way.
Problem 1: this year, the "ears" on the water tank drain petcock just crumbled away due to rust. I was able to close it using a pair of pliers, but it will have to be replaced, probably when I winterize. Otherwise, all is well.
Problem 2: my bilge pump switch doesn't work. Can only pump the bilge using the manual position of the switch, which is a momentary, spring loaded position. This is a good excuse to finally install the Groco AS-100 bilge pump switch, which I've had on hand for several years. I want to get all wires out of the water, i.e., the bilge, as I think one may be contributing to my rapid zinc erosion.
Problem 3: this has existed, and is festering: the "tub" for the shower and fridge drain sump is cracked and drains into the bilge quicker than the sump pump can evacuate it. Need to seal that crack, don't know yet what will work on that material.
There are other things, but not really Tartan specific. All the engine hoses are original; one coolant hose ahas a slow leak. All hoses are due to be replaced this year. Canvas is really beautifully made, high-end stuff, but it's quite faded, and worn, and I tore a piece out today putting it on. I may just try to reproduce it myself; I have a sewing hobby, three sewing machines including a heavy duty waling foot machine, and a huge roll of Sunbrella "Toast" fabric (60" wide roll) and a cone of the matching, heavy thread. Probably an off-season project. Cabin sole needs attention - was thinking of some light sanding and then "wiping" with polyurethane, rather than a complete refinish. Head/shower drain was never correct, a design flaw, in my opinion, I'd like to remedy that with a legit, "low spot," larger drain. More, of course...it never ends.
