Recommended bilge pump for H31

[photo-dude]

I just purchased a 1987 Hunter 31 as my first boat. I've noticed that when I turn on the bilge, it runs constantly. If I have to turn it off, how is it protected when I'm not aboard? Is the pump faulty or is there something else I'm missing like a float?

Should I have a backup pump? What will fit my boat and do what I need it to do?

 

[DayDreamer41]

Does the pump move water out of the bilge? if so you need to look at the placement of the float switch, if you aren't moving water out of the bilge with the pump running then you may want to check the pump inlet guard.... all clear check the discharge line for any blockages.......all clear, then you may want to look for a replacement pump, Jabsco is a popular brand, but I am sure there are many more.

http://shop.hunterowners.com/hp/hpcat.php?m=31&c=9

 

[Ken Cross]

Ours has two power inputs: a switch to manually switch it on, and a float switched source that switches it on if bilge water gets deep enough. There is usually an easy to test the float switch depending on make/ model of pump.

Ken

 

[photo-dude]

The pump moves water out of the bilge but doesn't shut off. There's a Bilge Pump switch on the main control panel and that's all I know of.

 

[photo-dude]

Here's my 12VDC panel.

 

[DayDreamer41]

The pump moves water out of the bilge but doesn't shut off. There's a Bilge Pump switch on the main control panel and that's all I know of.

Like Ken Cross indicated, there is a (2) position switch, hold to the right is manual when you release that is springs back to automatic, if the pump continues to run with the switch in the auto position then the float switch needs attention.

 

[photo-dude]

when I move the switch to the right "ON", the pump comes on. If I release the switch, it stays in the "ON" position and the pump runs until I shut it off.

 

[DayDreamer41]

Your panel orientation would indicate to me that the top bilge switch is the manual operation switch, with that switch in the "off" position the bilge works off the float switch.... "Automatically". The boat being new to you, you could always put a bucket full of water in the bilge with the top switch in the "off" position and check to make sure the pump runs automatically.

 

[photo-dude]

Okay... I see what you're talking about. Yeah, if I don't push the switch all the way to the right to where it clicks, it only runs as long as I hold it. Must be a float problem then because I filled the bilge to the top the other day to flush it out and the pump didn't come on until I turned it on.

 

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[kloudie1]

Here is a link to the owner's manual: http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_31_83-87_64283881.pdf
That switch is the manual switch. The pump will stay on until you turn it off. When it is "off" the pump is then on automatic, controlled by the float switch circuit. That circuit and its wires and connections, including the float switch, are notorious for corroding to where power cannot get to the pump.. First check all the connections going to the float and pump.. then check the float itself.. If water got into the wiring, you may have to pull new wires in and put in proper waterproof connections.. Good luck with it, dude..

 

[kloudie1]

Quick note, to de-power the float side of the system to work on it, you have to remove the fuse marked "bilge pump automatic". This is fed from an "always hot" wire from the big main battery switch (off, 1, Both, 2) .. That bilge pump circuit is powered even when the main switch is "off" and the panel master switch is "off".

 

[photo-dude]

Here is a link to the owner's manual: http://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_31_83-87_64283881.pdf
That switch is the manual switch. The pump will stay on until you turn it off. When it is "off" the pump is then on automatic, controlled by the float switch circuit. That circuit and its wires and connections, including the float switch, are notorious for corroding to where power cannot get to the pump.. First check all the connections going to the float and pump.. then check the float itself.. If water got into the wiring, you may have to pull new wires in and put in proper waterproof connections.. Good luck with it, dude..

Thanks, kloudie1. I'm on a real slow wifi here in the marina. I haven't been able to download the PDF files yet but I'll keep trying.

 

[rgranger]

can you reach the float switch with your hand? If so, just lift it up and see if the pump kicks on.

 

[pateco]

My 1983 H31 may be wired differently than yours or may have been rewired by the PO, as it is wired from the breaker to the float switch. The bilge pump breaker has to be on. However with it on, it still works with the float.

 

[SFS]

Chip, sounds like maybe a rewire. On my 83, the breaker will make the pump come on, but with the breaker off, the auto feature works. I test it periodically with clean water into the bilge. I do not have a separate float switch, but I plan on changing that soon.

 

[Benny17441]

Some of the older Hunters with shallow bilges came with a manual On/Off breaker switch for the bilge pump. Understand that the small pump placed in the bilge by the boat's designer is merely a convenience item just intended to discharge incidental water that collects in the bilge so that you do not have to scoop it up manually. The way the boat's designer intended for it to be used is that when you first come aboard you turn it on to get rid of any water and then turn it off. You may periodically turn it on and off while you are aboard. The way the boat is protected when you are not aboard is by frequent inspection of the hoses, clamps and thru-hulls (first line of defense). If you are looking for further convenience you may add a float switch into the circuit and this will turn the pump On and Off for you. I don't know how deep or how shallow the bilge area of the h31 is but if it is very shallow a float switch may not adequately work and you might need to replace the pump with an electronically controlled one. These small pumps do not have the capacity to handle any significant intrusion of water and are not intended to be relied on as a safety item. At best they might only delay a boat filling up with water by a very short time. Pumps are rated in Gallons Per Hour (GPH) by the manufacturer and the rating is done with no hoses and a light load. It is not unusual to find that a 500 GPH pump in a typical installation may only discharge around 100 GPH at best. If I were you and found out the boat has a shallow bilge I would just keep the pump you have and get used to turning it on and off periodically when you come aboard and when sailing. For safety get in the habit of checking and maintaining all water inlet components and make sure you turn the intake valve to the "head" Off when leaving the boat unattended. It is the "head" with weak seals that has sunk many a boat.

 

[Steve Dion]

Some of the pumps have a built in float switch. I doubt that whatever you have on your boat has been refit many times since 1987. These models do not led themselves to having many options since the bilge is so shallow.

It is a good time to evaluate what you have and maybe upgrade the entire system so it works properly. The bilge pump should activate automatically when the float switch is activated. It should also activate when you flip the switch on the electrical panel.

I replaced several float switches on my '85 H'31 over the years so I can tell you that the quality of many of these units are suspect.

 

[HMT2]

Chip, sounds like maybe a rewire. On my 83, the breaker will make the pump come on, but with the breaker off, the auto feature works. I test it periodically with clean water into the bilge. I do not have a separate float switch, but I plan on changing that soon.

PH, I have the same boat '83 version and your panel is my panel. Mine works as Ray describes above.