Alas!, the painted on non-skid on the deck of my 1980 Hunter 30' needs re-coating. Some time ago I was able to get a quart of non-skid gel coat from Hunter, but after the years (yes-I put off the job) the stuff was lumpy and impossible to mix. Hunter says it is no longer available. Interlux has a dulling agent for their paints, but it only brings the gloss down to semi-gloss. Does anyone have any recommendations for paint-on products?
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kevin hostler
non skid
I used a two part urethane and added a non skid additive from Interlux. It worked out great and looks like new again.
I used a two part urethane and added a non skid additive from Interlux. It worked out great and looks like new again.
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Don Bodemann
house paint
I've heard from several folks that they have had great results just using house paint and a roller. I'm considering giving it a try myself. I've also heard adding sand as a nonskid yields a very abrasive "sharp" surface unless recoated.
I've heard from several folks that they have had great results just using house paint and a roller. I'm considering giving it a try myself. I've also heard adding sand as a nonskid yields a very abrasive "sharp" surface unless recoated.
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Terry Arnold
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John McDaris
non skid
I just used the color of interlux paint that I liked and added some of the little poly balls that interlux sells and rolled it on. Put on two coats, the first one with the poly balls and the second without. I like the poly balls better than the sand that I used before on another one of my boats. The hardest part was taping of all my none skid areas, It has been three seasons since I done it and it still has a nice shine to it. I have 84' 31 Hunter
I just used the color of interlux paint that I liked and added some of the little poly balls that interlux sells and rolled it on. Put on two coats, the first one with the poly balls and the second without. I like the poly balls better than the sand that I used before on another one of my boats. The hardest part was taping of all my none skid areas, It has been three seasons since I done it and it still has a nice shine to it. I have 84' 31 Hunter
2-Part or Gel Coat!
John: If/when the day comes to re-do the non-skid on our boat, I would ONLY use a 2 Part Poly paint or re-do with with Gel Coat. The problem with using a single part paint is the cleaners that you can use on the rest of the fiber glass. Good cleaners that can be used on Gel Coat can remove the paint. I have been told that 2 part poly paints should last for 8-10 years if properly applied.
John: If/when the day comes to re-do the non-skid on our boat, I would ONLY use a 2 Part Poly paint or re-do with with Gel Coat. The problem with using a single part paint is the cleaners that you can use on the rest of the fiber glass. Good cleaners that can be used on Gel Coat can remove the paint. I have been told that 2 part poly paints should last for 8-10 years if properly applied.
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Tim Schaaf
rolled gel-coat
Your original non-skid was gelcoat with a stippled surface. You can re-create that exactly, using gelcoat and the correct roller to give you a stippled rather than a smooth finish. The non-skid will be shiny, but effective and very attractive.
Your original non-skid was gelcoat with a stippled surface. You can re-create that exactly, using gelcoat and the correct roller to give you a stippled rather than a smooth finish. The non-skid will be shiny, but effective and very attractive.
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Bob Howie
House Paint? You're kidding me, right?
With all due respect to Don, I cannot believe anyone would be so cheap to use common house paint on a deck! Why not just forget the roller, tape off the appropriate areas and get out a case of rattle cans? I can only imagine the inglorious mess that would create based on wear-n-tear ad infinitum. I grew up near and in a shipyard in south Mississippi and I never saw/heard of anyone using house paint on boats. Back in those days, Interlux was pretty much the standard and that was before Awlgrip came along. Marine coatings -- I guess a fancy name for paints -- are particularly formulated for their purpose and considering the relatively small areas in which they are used, I'd say their fairly economical. Interlux and Awlgrip have systems for this kind of work and I'd suggest anyone considering this kind of project stick with them.
With all due respect to Don, I cannot believe anyone would be so cheap to use common house paint on a deck! Why not just forget the roller, tape off the appropriate areas and get out a case of rattle cans? I can only imagine the inglorious mess that would create based on wear-n-tear ad infinitum. I grew up near and in a shipyard in south Mississippi and I never saw/heard of anyone using house paint on boats. Back in those days, Interlux was pretty much the standard and that was before Awlgrip came along. Marine coatings -- I guess a fancy name for paints -- are particularly formulated for their purpose and considering the relatively small areas in which they are used, I'd say their fairly economical. Interlux and Awlgrip have systems for this kind of work and I'd suggest anyone considering this kind of project stick with them.
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Jack
Housepaint
I used to think that was crazy too but my neighbor painted the deck of his Triton about 6 years ago and it looks just fine. What else can I say?
I used to think that was crazy too but my neighbor painted the deck of his Triton about 6 years ago and it looks just fine. What else can I say?
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Bob Howie
To each his own
I suppose there are some finishes that are polyurethane based or use some kind of pre-catalyzing agent such as Imron that could very well might be used in lieu of a marine-specific finish and that might give adequate service. In fact, I have seen Imron on boats and since Imron is a trademark name, I suppose any kind of pre-catalyzed paint could be used and might be cheaper than a marine-specific coating. There might even be some cases when I would consider perhaps using Imron, but, with all due respect to the entrepreneurial spirit of those who blaze the trail on the road less traveled, more power to y'all and my wish for your best success. That's what makes America -- and boating great; we are all more than welcome to each go our own way...and, like that guy who first slurped the first raw oyster, we may even from time to time find totally acceptable and practical alternatives to tried-and-true conventions. As for me, think I'll just stick with Interlux or Awlgrip...unless of course I choose to maybe consider Imron!!!
I suppose there are some finishes that are polyurethane based or use some kind of pre-catalyzing agent such as Imron that could very well might be used in lieu of a marine-specific finish and that might give adequate service. In fact, I have seen Imron on boats and since Imron is a trademark name, I suppose any kind of pre-catalyzed paint could be used and might be cheaper than a marine-specific coating. There might even be some cases when I would consider perhaps using Imron, but, with all due respect to the entrepreneurial spirit of those who blaze the trail on the road less traveled, more power to y'all and my wish for your best success. That's what makes America -- and boating great; we are all more than welcome to each go our own way...and, like that guy who first slurped the first raw oyster, we may even from time to time find totally acceptable and practical alternatives to tried-and-true conventions. As for me, think I'll just stick with Interlux or Awlgrip...unless of course I choose to maybe consider Imron!!!
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Jim Hague
Interlux Interthane Plus
According to the 'old timer' I talked to at Humter about ten years ago the original formula used was: Interlux Interthane Plus Interlux Polymeric No-Skid Compound Interlux 2317 Flattening Agent Interlus 2333 Thinner I have used this and it looked and functioned like the orginal. Shark White (light blue-grey) was the original color. Next time I will use plain White in order to minimize deck temps. Brush or roll but keep the 'Polymeric Compound' stirred up. I also used the newer version of the thinner which is Interlux 2333N. I used the following ratios: Interthane Plus A 12 oz Interthane Plus B 4 oz Polymeric 4 oz (fld.oz.) Flattner 4 oz 2333N 8 oz When I do this again I am considering reducing the polymeric and flattner to maybe 2 oz each.
According to the 'old timer' I talked to at Humter about ten years ago the original formula used was: Interlux Interthane Plus Interlux Polymeric No-Skid Compound Interlux 2317 Flattening Agent Interlus 2333 Thinner I have used this and it looked and functioned like the orginal. Shark White (light blue-grey) was the original color. Next time I will use plain White in order to minimize deck temps. Brush or roll but keep the 'Polymeric Compound' stirred up. I also used the newer version of the thinner which is Interlux 2333N. I used the following ratios: Interthane Plus A 12 oz Interthane Plus B 4 oz Polymeric 4 oz (fld.oz.) Flattner 4 oz 2333N 8 oz When I do this again I am considering reducing the polymeric and flattner to maybe 2 oz each.
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Tim Schaaf
Imron
Although I personally advocate gelcoat for the non-skid, and Awlgrip LPU, Imron is often used on VERY fine yachts. In fact, I did not know that anyone considered it to NOT be a marine paint. Generally, it is thought of as having a lifespan of about 80% of Awlgrip. In addition to being used in the "First World", it is often much more obtainable in the "Third World" than Awgrip, for reasons I do not know. Here in Mexico, it is not uncommon to do a really fine LPU job with Imron.
Although I personally advocate gelcoat for the non-skid, and Awlgrip LPU, Imron is often used on VERY fine yachts. In fact, I did not know that anyone considered it to NOT be a marine paint. Generally, it is thought of as having a lifespan of about 80% of Awlgrip. In addition to being used in the "First World", it is often much more obtainable in the "Third World" than Awgrip, for reasons I do not know. Here in Mexico, it is not uncommon to do a really fine LPU job with Imron.
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Tom Hadoulias
Don, What kind of housepaint?
I've actually considered doing this myself. I believe the housepaint would wear off better than the peeling that occurs with catalyst base paints on old surfaces, preparation of course being the key. I think it would be a lot easier to maintain touch-up on high traffic areas with Sears Weather Beater acrylic latex that doing an entire prep job for Awlgrip or equivalent. Realizing that special marine coatings are in fact formulated for thier specific use, it is entirely possible that an $11.00 a gallon housepaint could do an adequate job. I'd like to hear some success stories with some details from those that have had tried this if your out there. Thanks! Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
I've actually considered doing this myself. I believe the housepaint would wear off better than the peeling that occurs with catalyst base paints on old surfaces, preparation of course being the key. I think it would be a lot easier to maintain touch-up on high traffic areas with Sears Weather Beater acrylic latex that doing an entire prep job for Awlgrip or equivalent. Realizing that special marine coatings are in fact formulated for thier specific use, it is entirely possible that an $11.00 a gallon housepaint could do an adequate job. I'd like to hear some success stories with some details from those that have had tried this if your out there. Thanks! Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
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Jack
Jim Hague
Was this rolled and tipped. if so, what kind of roler and brush. Guess I don't know much about painting but was the thinner added to the paint? House paint. I don't know what kind and can't find out until this spring, sorry.
Was this rolled and tipped. if so, what kind of roler and brush. Guess I don't know much about painting but was the thinner added to the paint? House paint. I don't know what kind and can't find out until this spring, sorry.
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Bob Howie
I'm laughing
Ok, y'all, with all due respect and really no intentional offense to anyone -- actually, I'm not going to do it myself, but I'm interested in at least hearing the stories -- I can't believe what I'm reading about house paint on boats! Sailors are known for spending thousands of dollars on tackle, rigging, sails, rollers, cushions, stereos, dinghys, outboards -- hell, I even spent eight grand on a repower last summer and I'm not even rich by any definition -- and the topic of painting a boat being reduced to debate over which $11-gallon of common house paint to use on decks, well, I find it hilariously amusing. Really, no offense intended toward anyone and maybe there are some really good success stories along this line of talk, but like all the above-mentioned items, paint on boats wears out eventually, thus the need to repaint the boat! Save a litte in the kitty each month and the "pain" of repainting isn't as bad as it could be! I think exploring the alternatives is very valid since a total hull and deck paint job can approach $6,000 these days -- on a 30-foot boat, that is -- but in all the years I've been around boats, practically since I was born, it has never occurred to me that house paint could, would or should be used. Sure, some quality house paints hold up pretty well, but I've noticed that no one is walking on the side of a house, or running lines, cleats, rigging spinnaker poles, tossing out and retrieving anchors, setting sails or any of that other stuff either. Although I'm nearly terminally cynical on this topic, I, too, would like to hear what successes, if any, folks are having with this. Again, I genuinely apologize is my mirth and cynacism over this offends anyone because I'm truly not trying to be offensive.
Ok, y'all, with all due respect and really no intentional offense to anyone -- actually, I'm not going to do it myself, but I'm interested in at least hearing the stories -- I can't believe what I'm reading about house paint on boats! Sailors are known for spending thousands of dollars on tackle, rigging, sails, rollers, cushions, stereos, dinghys, outboards -- hell, I even spent eight grand on a repower last summer and I'm not even rich by any definition -- and the topic of painting a boat being reduced to debate over which $11-gallon of common house paint to use on decks, well, I find it hilariously amusing. Really, no offense intended toward anyone and maybe there are some really good success stories along this line of talk, but like all the above-mentioned items, paint on boats wears out eventually, thus the need to repaint the boat! Save a litte in the kitty each month and the "pain" of repainting isn't as bad as it could be! I think exploring the alternatives is very valid since a total hull and deck paint job can approach $6,000 these days -- on a 30-foot boat, that is -- but in all the years I've been around boats, practically since I was born, it has never occurred to me that house paint could, would or should be used. Sure, some quality house paints hold up pretty well, but I've noticed that no one is walking on the side of a house, or running lines, cleats, rigging spinnaker poles, tossing out and retrieving anchors, setting sails or any of that other stuff either. Although I'm nearly terminally cynical on this topic, I, too, would like to hear what successes, if any, folks are having with this. Again, I genuinely apologize is my mirth and cynacism over this offends anyone because I'm truly not trying to be offensive.
Not a laughing matter!
Bob: This is not a laughing matter <g>. You spend $30k-100k on a boat and worry about saving $30-1000 on a gallon of paint? There are boats in our harbor that could use any type of paint they want and will probably look good in 2, 5 or 10 years cause no one ever steps on the decks (okay 2-3 times per year). The one thing about using it on non-skid is the fact that it really does not need to look too good cause you are going to sprinkle on dirt (sand) to make it rough. So none of the imperfections are going to show. Even the cabin and other surfaces are fairly forgiving. Now when they start painting on the hull it makes a difference. Every imperfection shows. The procedure involves a roller and a brush (tip n'roll). Then they wet sand it and coat it again (usually 2 or more coats). If you use a high quality marine paint and follow directions a lot of the labor is removed with the high tech self leveling paints. The trick is to get it thinned properly an always keeping a wet edge. If you have ever seen a GOOD job, it is rather amazing how GOOD it can look. When you see a bad job......................
Bob: This is not a laughing matter <g>. You spend $30k-100k on a boat and worry about saving $30-1000 on a gallon of paint? There are boats in our harbor that could use any type of paint they want and will probably look good in 2, 5 or 10 years cause no one ever steps on the decks (okay 2-3 times per year). The one thing about using it on non-skid is the fact that it really does not need to look too good cause you are going to sprinkle on dirt (sand) to make it rough. So none of the imperfections are going to show. Even the cabin and other surfaces are fairly forgiving. Now when they start painting on the hull it makes a difference. Every imperfection shows. The procedure involves a roller and a brush (tip n'roll). Then they wet sand it and coat it again (usually 2 or more coats). If you use a high quality marine paint and follow directions a lot of the labor is removed with the high tech self leveling paints. The trick is to get it thinned properly an always keeping a wet edge. If you have ever seen a GOOD job, it is rather amazing how GOOD it can look. When you see a bad job......................
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Tom Hadoulias
B.O.A.T...
Definition; Break Out Another Thousand. This has proved to be a very interesting post. Good advice and some cynicism creates a healthy environment for getting some real facts, good and bad. I have spent my entire career as an engineer with the space program and one thing stands out with respect to this paint discussion. Just because something says marine and costs ten times as much doesn't mean it's better. The marine industry as a whole is price gouging boaters who justify spending lots of money because they can afford to own an expensive boat. The fact is many marine products are just repackaged and marketed from a cross-over industry. I'm not suggesting that Sears Latex house paint is equivalent to AwlGrip but Sherwin Williams two part epoxy paint just might be! Unless your a chemist specicializing in this field with the proper analytical tools your just going by what the packaging tells you. Well, guess what? you may get lucky and find something that works as good or better for 1/10 the cost. Personally, I find that from a reliability standpoint, the items I have purchased from the marine stores for specific applications on my boat at highly inflated prices, I have experienced a 40% failure rate within the warrantee period. This includes mechanical, electrical, adhesives and other items. My conclusion... don't rule out anything that may work, especially if it's been used successfully by some daring soul who is willing to experiment. By the way, we used to have a $100,000 toilet seat on the shuttle, now we just use an off the shelf model for about $200 and we got rid of the million dollar toilet. Perhaps a Raritan would fit? Necessity is after all, the mother of invention. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
Definition; Break Out Another Thousand. This has proved to be a very interesting post. Good advice and some cynicism creates a healthy environment for getting some real facts, good and bad. I have spent my entire career as an engineer with the space program and one thing stands out with respect to this paint discussion. Just because something says marine and costs ten times as much doesn't mean it's better. The marine industry as a whole is price gouging boaters who justify spending lots of money because they can afford to own an expensive boat. The fact is many marine products are just repackaged and marketed from a cross-over industry. I'm not suggesting that Sears Latex house paint is equivalent to AwlGrip but Sherwin Williams two part epoxy paint just might be! Unless your a chemist specicializing in this field with the proper analytical tools your just going by what the packaging tells you. Well, guess what? you may get lucky and find something that works as good or better for 1/10 the cost. Personally, I find that from a reliability standpoint, the items I have purchased from the marine stores for specific applications on my boat at highly inflated prices, I have experienced a 40% failure rate within the warrantee period. This includes mechanical, electrical, adhesives and other items. My conclusion... don't rule out anything that may work, especially if it's been used successfully by some daring soul who is willing to experiment. By the way, we used to have a $100,000 toilet seat on the shuttle, now we just use an off the shelf model for about $200 and we got rid of the million dollar toilet. Perhaps a Raritan would fit? Necessity is after all, the mother of invention. Tom Hadoulias S/V Lite Chop
Agreeing to disagree!
Tom: Not totally disagreeing with you. You should realize that items that are desgined for a specific industry that is really as small as the marine industry take time and effort. When you mfg something for a mass market and sell millions of copies you can sell it for a hell of a lot less than some one that sell 10,000 units. Yes Awlgrip is expensive and may not be worth the cost on a 1979 Hunter 25 and Sherman Williams 2 part poly paint would be fine. This may or may not be the case for an OEM mfg of a $300k boat. These guys that spend this kind of money expect perfection and want their vessels to look like new 10 years from now too. My point is that you may be able to find a product that may or may not be as serviceable for less money in the mass market. Will it look and function the same in 2, 3 or 10 years? Maybe or maybe not. A perfect example of this is Sunbrella. Not necessarily a marine product but costly anyway. There is not many other products that can function like it does at any cost. The other factor is purchasing product in a Marine store. They have a captive audience. Most boaters will pay a few buck extra (and they know that) for one stop shopping. PS: Cost cutting at NASA (WOW)!
Tom: Not totally disagreeing with you. You should realize that items that are desgined for a specific industry that is really as small as the marine industry take time and effort. When you mfg something for a mass market and sell millions of copies you can sell it for a hell of a lot less than some one that sell 10,000 units. Yes Awlgrip is expensive and may not be worth the cost on a 1979 Hunter 25 and Sherman Williams 2 part poly paint would be fine. This may or may not be the case for an OEM mfg of a $300k boat. These guys that spend this kind of money expect perfection and want their vessels to look like new 10 years from now too. My point is that you may be able to find a product that may or may not be as serviceable for less money in the mass market. Will it look and function the same in 2, 3 or 10 years? Maybe or maybe not. A perfect example of this is Sunbrella. Not necessarily a marine product but costly anyway. There is not many other products that can function like it does at any cost. The other factor is purchasing product in a Marine store. They have a captive audience. Most boaters will pay a few buck extra (and they know that) for one stop shopping. PS: Cost cutting at NASA (WOW)!
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Tim Schaaf
alternatives to Sunbrella, Steve!
Guess what, Steve, there are even alternatives to Sunbrella. My awning is made of some extremely light durable stuff called Stamoid. A canvas maker turned me on to it...it looks a little like that stuff out of which they make the tarps that last a few months, in that there is no "weave". But, it is in fact very high tech and durable. It's advantage is that it is very light and folds into a small space. It is completely waterproof, UV resistant, etc, etc, etc, and will outdo Sunbrella in many applications. Now for the bad news ;-).....you won't be saving yourself much, if any money! Oh, well. It is still worth looking at.
Guess what, Steve, there are even alternatives to Sunbrella. My awning is made of some extremely light durable stuff called Stamoid. A canvas maker turned me on to it...it looks a little like that stuff out of which they make the tarps that last a few months, in that there is no "weave". But, it is in fact very high tech and durable. It's advantage is that it is very light and folds into a small space. It is completely waterproof, UV resistant, etc, etc, etc, and will outdo Sunbrella in many applications. Now for the bad news ;-).....you won't be saving yourself much, if any money! Oh, well. It is still worth looking at.
time is the test Tim.
Tim: I know that there are other good products, but the good ones are expensive too (which is my point). Only time will tell if this lasts as long or longer than Sunbrella. I just replaced my sail cover. I was on the boat (in the weather everday) since April 1987. I did not like spending the $200 or so to replace it, but considering the life, it was inexpensive (but was not CHEAP). PS: Thanks, this is good to know. And it has some other qualities that Sunbrella does not!
Tim: I know that there are other good products, but the good ones are expensive too (which is my point). Only time will tell if this lasts as long or longer than Sunbrella. I just replaced my sail cover. I was on the boat (in the weather everday) since April 1987. I did not like spending the $200 or so to replace it, but considering the life, it was inexpensive (but was not CHEAP). PS: Thanks, this is good to know. And it has some other qualities that Sunbrella does not!
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