Hi, I am about to install the remaining stanchion posts today. I installed the Bow Sprit a few days ago and what I mess I made. I should have masked the area with masking tape first, oh well...you live you learn. What I did notice, after cleaning up the extra Silicon, was that the sealent seemed rather thin between the posts and deck. Should I be concearned? What I did was put the caulking on the post bottom, then losely threaded the bolt nut and backing plate (5/16" Gr.1100 Aluminum) on, then squeeze a wee bit more caulking before letting the post rest in its new home. I then gave each fitting (post) about 10 minutes before going below and tightning all the bolts (1/4-20 ST.ST.). Does this seem like the correct way of doing it?? I used white silicone (indoor / outdoor). I saw the 3M silicone but was not about to pay 5 times the price because it had the word Marine on it. I realize I will have to rebed in 5 ~ 10 years but I can deal with that.
- Status
Should let it cure before tighntening the bolts
Basically, you should let it cure before tighntening the bolts otherwise your left with about 1/16th of bedding.
Basically, you should let it cure before tighntening the bolts otherwise your left with about 1/16th of bedding.
Let the bedding cure
The bedding material should cure a couple of days before you securely tighten the screw. If you buy the caulk and tight the bolts right away, ten minutes is still right away, you will squeeze all the material out; even the money forsilicon caulk from Home Depot will be wasted if it is all squeezed out. Use a qulity compound such as BoatLife LifeCaulk or Dow 795, apply it, let it cure for a week, trim the excess with a box cutter/Xacto knife, snug the bolts, and go sailing. A quality job is never a waste of time. If the seal is not watertight, water could migrate in the core and cause greater problems later on, therefore do it right the first time.
The bedding material should cure a couple of days before you securely tighten the screw. If you buy the caulk and tight the bolts right away, ten minutes is still right away, you will squeeze all the material out; even the money forsilicon caulk from Home Depot will be wasted if it is all squeezed out. Use a qulity compound such as BoatLife LifeCaulk or Dow 795, apply it, let it cure for a week, trim the excess with a box cutter/Xacto knife, snug the bolts, and go sailing. A quality job is never a waste of time. If the seal is not watertight, water could migrate in the core and cause greater problems later on, therefore do it right the first time.
Don't use silicon
It has poor adhesion qualities. Use a good marine caulk or you'll be doing this job again sooner rather than later. What I do is leave a gap that two quarters could fit in, let it cure, and then tighten. Marine caulks cost more for a reason.
It has poor adhesion qualities. Use a good marine caulk or you'll be doing this job again sooner rather than later. What I do is leave a gap that two quarters could fit in, let it cure, and then tighten. Marine caulks cost more for a reason.
3M - 4200
$20 for a tube of 4200 will look cheap if the core on your deck rots when the water gets in this season from the cheap caulk.
$20 for a tube of 4200 will look cheap if the core on your deck rots when the water gets in this season from the cheap caulk.
4200...
...can be bought in smaller, toothpaste-sized tubes for a bit over ten bucks. Well worth the money.
...can be bought in smaller, toothpaste-sized tubes for a bit over ten bucks. Well worth the money.
Or Sikaflex from HMP
Does a great job when rebedding stantion posts and deck fittings. Ask Peter at HMP (then stand back while he tells you his stories about Sikaflex saving the day).
Does a great job when rebedding stantion posts and deck fittings. Ask Peter at HMP (then stand back while he tells you his stories about Sikaflex saving the day).
- Status