Rebedding mast step

[GrampaArt]

I have decided to rebed the mast step on the 8.6 I've just purchased. The hardware in the cabin is under carpeting and I'm not sure I can feel what's what. Is it possible that they used lag bolts into the support beam? It's a 1984 and although the cabin top doesn't have moisture around the mast step I would think the old compound is shot by now.

GrampaArt

 

[Mcshane]

I'm going to do the same thing with my 9.2A, so I'll keep watching the posts for comments. Plan to also rebid other deck fittings before launching this spring since mast is down after transporting. I'll use both 3M 4200 and butyl tape, counter sinking the holes as I've seen on instruction site for this procedure. Also have some minor chainplate /bulkhead damage I will take care of. My boat is 1986, so they might have similar mast step fastenings. Good luck with your project.

McShane

 

[Bob McKee]

Mcshane
The mast on the 9.2A is deck stepped with a compression post going through a box at the aft of the head. The area under the compression post on mine and other 9.2A boats has no support under the floor. Check the door to the head to see if the aft (hinge) side of the door has sagged, indicated by a gap at the forward top edge of the door. I had to cut a hole under the settee to access under the floor and install support. On my boat the holding tank had to come out also to do the work.
Good luck, it's not difficult, just aggravating that it needs to be done. I wrote a post about how I did it but don't remember the number of the post.

Bob McKee
Spirit Wind
Seattle, WA

 

[BobM]

http://forums.s2.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=129373

I think that is Bob's link.

 

[Bob McKee]

http://forums.s2.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=129373

I think that is Bob's link.

Bob M
That is the correct post, thanks for finding it. Using to jack under the aft end of the door was the key to getting enough lift on the door frame
Bob McKee

 

[BobM]

I am tempted to try this and there is no time like winter...from my nose's perspective...to pull the holding tank plumbing apart. I am tempted to simplify my head plumbing drastically. If I remove the macerator and just simple run a pump out it may smell better. It was all redone with the correct hoses 5-6 years ago, but the problem with the correct hoses is that the previous owner obviously had an impossible time making the connections due to how thick and stiff they are. I may try to fit a bigger holding tank, as even now the 12 gallon tank fills up over a long weekend with restricted use.

 

[woodster]

Mcshane
The mast on the 9.2A is deck stepped with a compression post going through a box at the aft of the head. The area under the compression post on mine and other 9.2A boats has no support under the floor. Check the door to the head to see if the aft (hinge) side of the door has sagged, indicated by a gap at the forward top edge of the door. I had to cut a hole under the settee to access under the floor and install support. On my boat the holding tank had to come out also to do the work.
Good luck, it's not difficult, just aggravating that it needs to be done. I wrote a post about how I did it but don't remember the number of the post.

Bob McKee
Spirit Wind
Seattle, WA

hear is what it looks like with the cabin sole removed and the head removed

regards

woody

 

[BobM]

What is the cross member?

Was that under the post under the mast?

 

[woodster]

that is the new rib i made to replace the rotten pine one that was put in at the factory when it was built...it was not a good job originally and water damage took its toll in the pine 2/4....it wasn't even bedded to the top of the keel...the new one is 8 inches front to rear and about 22 inches wide out of mahogany....i scribed it to the shape of the top of the keel and glass work then made up a mix if thicken epoxy and set it in then glassed it down....this allows the compression to transfer to the keel making the hole thing solid from the deck top to the bottom of the keel .....lots better now

regards

woody

 

[Mcshane]

Good photos, and helpful. Do you know how far forward the bilge goes from the engine? Can't tell because of the 2 inches or so between the floor decking and engine beds inside hatch cover. My 86 S2A has a support under the compression post, but not much room in the little floor hatch in front of the head door. I can tell though, there is a very slight sag. Was it difficult to remove the floor decking? Seems like it would be a big job.

Thanks, McShane

 

[Mcshane]

Mast Step

Mcshane
The mast on the 9.2A is deck stepped with a compression post going through a box at the aft of the head. The area under the compression post on mine and other 9.2A boats has no support under the floor. Check the door to the head to see if the aft (hinge) side of the door has sagged, indicated by a gap at the forward top edge of the door. I had to cut a hole under the settee to access under the floor and install support. On my boat the holding tank had to come out also to do the work.
Good luck, it's not difficult, just aggravating that it needs to be done. I wrote a post about how I did it but don't remember the number of the post.

Bob McKee
Spirit Wind
Seattle, WA

Under the floor of my compression post, there is what seems to be a substantial wooden block which supports the mast. I know because there is a small hole (about 1 and a half inches in dia that I had to pull wires through when we stepped the mast. It won't be fun come spring when we re-step the mast and fish the wires for reconnection. Do you think the wooden block was a later thought in 86 because of previous problems or someone along the line added it? Everything looks original.

Shane
Breeze
Stockton, MO

 

[woodster]

Good photos,Thank you ... and helpful. Do you know how far forward the bilge goes from the engine? About 28 inches from the front of the bead rails for the engine.... Can't tell because of the 2 inches or so between the floor decking and engine beds inside hatch cover. My 86 S2A has a support under the compression post, but not much room in the little floor hatch in front of the head door. I can tell though, there is a very slight sag. thats is probably from the wood under the sole getting weak along with the fact that it was not set firm on the keel.... Was it difficult to remove the floor decking?Yes it was but it had to come out because the plywood sub straight was rotten by the fact that the boat sit on the hard full of fresh water for a long time had it been salt water it would have been OK i took out the main bulk head along withe head and shower pan in order to repair all of this ...had to replace the diagnial head wall going forward .....th only bulk head i didn't have to replace was the one in the quarter birth that divides the engine compartment from the quarter birth... Seems like it would be a big job.

Thanks, McShane

regards

woody