Rebedding fixed portlights

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Jun 9, 2004
963
Hunter 40.5 Bayfield, WI
Marco-Hopefully we'll be testing them in just a couple of weeks. I will let you know.

Clark-I'm sorry I don't remember the thickness of the shims. The windows actually went into place very easily. Once we had the Dow 795 applied to the fiberglass it was easy to hold the windows by their very edges and set them gently in place. A few shims on the bottom and they were solid.

I guess I'll know for sure we did it right when we head back up there next weekend. The new windows have been covered and tarped over since the install. I can't wait to see out my nice, new clear windows!
 

Clark

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Jun 30, 2004
886
Hunter 280 Lake Guntersville, AL
Thanks Buck; I've read that thread several times :)

Their ports were initally screwed in place until the sealant/adhesive set up. Mine are like many others - no holes or trim or anything. It just seemed that even two people very carefully placing a 6-8' long piece of acrylic in place that some sort of guide for positioning would be the proper technique.

POTL, "A few shims on the bottom and they were solid." Did you mean shims to rest the bottom edge upon as the port was tilted in place?
I was truggling to understand what was done to make sure the large piece didn't slide or tilt out of position.

Here is a pic of a 280. The ports in question are the long ones on the side and are over 6' long.

 
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Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
This could be done in two steps.

First position the acrylic in place. You would caulk around the opening to hold the window in place. I would use some silicone tips like you put on the bottom of something so it does not scratch a table. Once the caulking sets up you can come back and caulk around the perimeter to seal the opening.
 
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