Rebedding chainplates

[fiestaMojo]

Hey all, my first project is to inspect and rebed the chainplates. Questions 1) the mast is up, I've read it's feasible to remove chainplates for inspection/rebedding a pair at a time (ease all shrouds) - is this OK?
2) I used Sika 291 when I did my Pearson 26 a few years ago, is this good? I've seen Sika 291 LOT listed (Long Open Time), and 292 which says it's for chainplate rebedding - any words of wisdom?
As always, thanks for the help. . .

 

[Ed Schenck]

When removing shrouds to do chainplate bedding I use halyards as support. I have only ever done one at a time. Tighten a halyard, all shrouds loosened, remove one and remove the cap. Clean out the old caulk and any other gunk. Refill, actually overfill so that it squeezes out the top and sides when I reinstall the cover. I use silicone because it stays flexible, is clear, and seems to keep the water out.

I have never had to remove a chainplate. Probably should for inspection.

 

[Jim Legere]

Don't use polyurethane caulking here...

Hi, like Ed says, use silicone or polysulfide (LifeCaulk). If you use 291 or 3M 5200, you'll have a hard time removing the chainplates in the future (they should be checked for cracks every 10 years or when renewing rigging). I did mine 2 at a time - port and starboard pairs. And I did remove my chainplates and inspect them before resealing. All were OK after 17 years!

 

[jorgefife]

Couldn't resist reading the rebedding chainplates
I will have to re-bed all 4 on starboard side; I re-bedded one on port side, but used 4200 (I know the 5200 is too vicious and cannot be removed later); then I also replaced the stainless steel covering plate, again using 4200
Ed and Jim both say they used silicone: is that used for the covering plate?
Is that good enough, and no leaks?
Please clarify, and also what kind of silicone are they referring to
I promise one day I will not ask so many questions, but help me now
Again, thanks
I need to do it reight, as all 4 stanchions were bent like matchsticks, port side is perfect, no leaks, but the other side took all the damage

 

[Paul F]

Here is a discussion on how to deal with leaks - chainplate leaks. This guy recommends 5200 because of it very good adhesion to steel and fiberglass along with its flexibility. I have heard like Jorgefife that 4200 is best. What you are looking for is adhesion.
http://www.yachtsurvey.com/dealing_with_leaks.htm

I have two friends that have just done their chainplates. To quote one "You need to remove chainplates to properly check them. The place they degrade is where the caulk is at the deck level. You have to inspect them carefully. More than one chainplate has pulled apart right at that point."

 

[Steve Dion]

Paul:

I don't think adhesion is the issue here. The main thing that these guys want to do is to have something that is very flexible. I would use Dow295 (silicone base). It holds windows into skyscrapers. There have not been too many of the large windows on the Hunters that have popped out either.

I would also consider use butyl tape under the covers. It holds up to the sun & salt water too.

If/when these chainplates ever need to be rebedded, it is going to be a SOB to clean out the 5200.

This is just my take on this issue.

 

[BoatlessAfterKatrina]

Hey all, my first project is to inspect and rebed the chainplates. Questions 1) the mast is up, I've read it's feasible to remove chainplates for inspection/rebedding a pair at a time (ease all shrouds) - is this OK?
2) I used Sika 291 when I did my Pearson 26 a few years ago, is this good? I've seen Sika 291 LOT listed (Long Open Time), and 292 which says it's for chainplate rebedding - any words of wisdom?
As always, thanks for the help. . .

On a related note, has anyone moved their shrouds outboard and mounted them to the freeboard?

I'm considering making this move - mounting chainplates to the side and running bolts through to the 'bulkheads' inside.

The reason I'm considering this is that it seems on all these old boats (incl my previous Irwin) the stresses at the deck from the shrouds flexing under sail seems to always work to open up the deck at the chainplates and allow water to run straight down the shroud into the cabin below decks. I just think that an outboard mount would be stronger and provide less opportunity for water to enter the cabin.