One of the snaps that holds my hatch cover(sunbrella fabric) has come out of the fiberglass. What is the best way to rebed this. Needs to be there as it is right on the corner
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No Problem Man
John, I had the same thing happen to me. Here is what is did. First remove the old snap and screw if not already out. Then take a Counter sink and lightly ream the hole so that the gel coat won't chip. Next move up one size in screw, same length is fine (you may have to run a drill through the center to ream out the snap a little for the larger screw). Finally, use some 3M 5200 and fill the hole. Also fill the screw threads with 5200 and replace the snap. Wipe up all access and let dry overnight before using! Good luck.
John, I had the same thing happen to me. Here is what is did. First remove the old snap and screw if not already out. Then take a Counter sink and lightly ream the hole so that the gel coat won't chip. Next move up one size in screw, same length is fine (you may have to run a drill through the center to ream out the snap a little for the larger screw). Finally, use some 3M 5200 and fill the hole. Also fill the screw threads with 5200 and replace the snap. Wipe up all access and let dry overnight before using! Good luck.
5200 Takes Longer than Overnight
FYI, Check the label directions. I think the 5200 has to cure for 3-4 days before you attempt to put pressure it. It has a very long cure time.
FYI, Check the label directions. I think the 5200 has to cure for 3-4 days before you attempt to put pressure it. It has a very long cure time.
Make Sure It's TOTALLY WATERPROOF!
Just heard a story this week about a leaky snap item - those "pointy things" that the "Lift-the-Dot" snaps onto - caused a major expensive problem on a boat. Due to water intrusion the side of the coach roof and all the deck below got water intrusion and it cost a lot to do the repair. So,.... the moral of this story is to make sure water doesn't get it.
Just heard a story this week about a leaky snap item - those "pointy things" that the "Lift-the-Dot" snaps onto - caused a major expensive problem on a boat. Due to water intrusion the side of the coach roof and all the deck below got water intrusion and it cost a lot to do the repair. So,.... the moral of this story is to make sure water doesn't get it.
West System
Read the manual for West System Epoxy. The procedure for pulled out screws should do you well. p.s. It will be dry overnight and is as waterproof as needs be
Read the manual for West System Epoxy. The procedure for pulled out screws should do you well. p.s. It will be dry overnight and is as waterproof as needs be
WEST System User Manual
John & Brian are right - Re-Bed /w Epoxy: GOTO: http://www.westsystem.com/ Click On: “Information Resources - Request FREE Literature“ then “User Manual” For greater strength and stability, drill oversized holes to increase the exposed substrate area and the amount of epoxy around the fastener. If the fastener/hardware can be clamped by other means, the oversized hole can be extended to the end of the fastener. THE BEST METHOD 1. Drill oversized holes 2/3-3/4 the depth of the fastener. The diameter may be up to twice the fastener diameter (Figure 16a). 2. Drill a normal sized pilot hole at the bottom of the oversized hole to the full length of the fastener. The normal sized pilot hole serves to hold or clamp the hardware in position until the epoxy cures. 3. Wet out the holes and the fastener with epoxy. Allow the epoxy to thoroughly soak into the exposed end grain of the wood. 4. Fill the hole with thickened epoxy/adhesive filler. Use 404 High-density (preferred) or 406 Colloidal Silica. 5. Install the fasteners with just enough force to hold the hardware in place. Allow the epoxy to cure thoroughly before applying load to the hardware (Figure 16b). THE EASIEST METHOD 1. Wet out a standard-size pilot hole. Work the mixture well into the hole with a pipe cleaner or syringe (Figure 15). Thicken a second coat of epoxy as necessary for stripped or oversized holes. 2. Insert the fastener in the hole and allow the epoxy to cure. Either way - DO NOT merely USE 5200 !!! HTH Gord
John & Brian are right - Re-Bed /w Epoxy: GOTO: http://www.westsystem.com/ Click On: “Information Resources - Request FREE Literature“ then “User Manual” For greater strength and stability, drill oversized holes to increase the exposed substrate area and the amount of epoxy around the fastener. If the fastener/hardware can be clamped by other means, the oversized hole can be extended to the end of the fastener. THE BEST METHOD 1. Drill oversized holes 2/3-3/4 the depth of the fastener. The diameter may be up to twice the fastener diameter (Figure 16a). 2. Drill a normal sized pilot hole at the bottom of the oversized hole to the full length of the fastener. The normal sized pilot hole serves to hold or clamp the hardware in position until the epoxy cures. 3. Wet out the holes and the fastener with epoxy. Allow the epoxy to thoroughly soak into the exposed end grain of the wood. 4. Fill the hole with thickened epoxy/adhesive filler. Use 404 High-density (preferred) or 406 Colloidal Silica. 5. Install the fasteners with just enough force to hold the hardware in place. Allow the epoxy to cure thoroughly before applying load to the hardware (Figure 16b). THE EASIEST METHOD 1. Wet out a standard-size pilot hole. Work the mixture well into the hole with a pipe cleaner or syringe (Figure 15). Thicken a second coat of epoxy as necessary for stripped or oversized holes. 2. Insert the fastener in the hole and allow the epoxy to cure. Either way - DO NOT merely USE 5200 !!! HTH Gord
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