I just removed the old broken center stem of a winch from my deck. The original bedding (from 1979) was still sticky! What should I use to remove the old bedding from the deck? I am guessing that acetone would work, but before I put it on my deck, I would like to get some more advice. Any recommendations for bedding compound for the installation of the replacement part? In bedding some new v-cleats, I used regular (not "marine-grade") silicone; would this be appropriate? Thanks.
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Be careful with acetone
Mike: Be very careful with acetone. It can melt the gelcoat. Use a putty knife to remove all the material (be careful not to scratch the gelcoat)then you can apply a little acetone to a rag and wipe the surface. Just be sure that you do not pour the acetone on the surface and use it sparingly on the rag. For bedding there are several products that work well. DO NOT USE 3M 5200. 4200 or Lifecaulk are good products. If you get a marine catalog they usually have tables that show the best products for each application.
Mike: Be very careful with acetone. It can melt the gelcoat. Use a putty knife to remove all the material (be careful not to scratch the gelcoat)then you can apply a little acetone to a rag and wipe the surface. Just be sure that you do not pour the acetone on the surface and use it sparingly on the rag. For bedding there are several products that work well. DO NOT USE 3M 5200. 4200 or Lifecaulk are good products. If you get a marine catalog they usually have tables that show the best products for each application.
R
R.W.Landau
No silicone
Mike, Silicone is not a good material for rebedding anything on a boat. Like Steve said use life caulk or 4200. Be carefull in rebedding your winch base. Mine is made to drain through the base. If water gets into the winch handle socket it drains through the center and out the weep holes in the base. If you caulk through the weep holes, the center fills up with water and drains through the bearing and pawls. Not a good thing. They winch should be on your seasonal list for cleaning and lubrication. r.w.landau
Mike, Silicone is not a good material for rebedding anything on a boat. Like Steve said use life caulk or 4200. Be carefull in rebedding your winch base. Mine is made to drain through the base. If water gets into the winch handle socket it drains through the center and out the weep holes in the base. If you caulk through the weep holes, the center fills up with water and drains through the bearing and pawls. Not a good thing. They winch should be on your seasonal list for cleaning and lubrication. r.w.landau
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Mike
R.W., why no silicone?
Both the West Marine and BoatUS catalogs describe their silicone products as suitable for bedding deck hardware. Have you had a bad experience using silicone?
Both the West Marine and BoatUS catalogs describe their silicone products as suitable for bedding deck hardware. Have you had a bad experience using silicone?
Suitable is the key word.
Mike: If you check out the charts in the catalogs you will find that the Silicone products are only rated as satisfactory. The Polyurethane and Polysulfide are rated much better for these type of attachments. When you attach a fixture to your boat you should caulk and insert the screws/bolt. If you have the ability to tighten a nut on the back side you should have someone hold the bolt and turn the nut vs. holding the nut and turn the bolt. This prevents removing the caulking from the holes. You should also NOT tighten down the fixture until the caulking has had 12-24 hours to cure. This allows the product to cure and form a gasket effect. If you completely tighten the fixture down when the caulking is fresh it will tend to squeeze it out of the joint.
Mike: If you check out the charts in the catalogs you will find that the Silicone products are only rated as satisfactory. The Polyurethane and Polysulfide are rated much better for these type of attachments. When you attach a fixture to your boat you should caulk and insert the screws/bolt. If you have the ability to tighten a nut on the back side you should have someone hold the bolt and turn the nut vs. holding the nut and turn the bolt. This prevents removing the caulking from the holes. You should also NOT tighten down the fixture until the caulking has had 12-24 hours to cure. This allows the product to cure and form a gasket effect. If you completely tighten the fixture down when the caulking is fresh it will tend to squeeze it out of the joint.
R
R.W.Landau
Like Steve Said
Yes, Silicone is not a friend of mine! It does not bond well and becomes hard enough that if something flexes enough, the bond breaks free and the slow penitration of water begins to rot out core material and cause those ever nagging drips that you can't seem to find. Don't get me wrong, silicone is not a bad product, I just WILL NOT USE IT ON MY boat anymore! There are to many other good products that work! r.w.landau
Yes, Silicone is not a friend of mine! It does not bond well and becomes hard enough that if something flexes enough, the bond breaks free and the slow penitration of water begins to rot out core material and cause those ever nagging drips that you can't seem to find. Don't get me wrong, silicone is not a bad product, I just WILL NOT USE IT ON MY boat anymore! There are to many other good products that work! r.w.landau
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Mike
You've convinced me!
Thanks for the advice. I had a less than satisfactory experience with BoatLife sealant a few years ago; when I tried to use my brand new tube, I discovered it had already hardened to the point where it was so difficult to squeeze out that the tube burst. The replacement offered by the store was little better. Maybe it was a bad lot, but I think I'll give 3M 4200 a try this time. Thanks again.
Thanks for the advice. I had a less than satisfactory experience with BoatLife sealant a few years ago; when I tried to use my brand new tube, I discovered it had already hardened to the point where it was so difficult to squeeze out that the tube burst. The replacement offered by the store was little better. Maybe it was a bad lot, but I think I'll give 3M 4200 a try this time. Thanks again.
Same thing with 4200 last year.
Mike: The same thing happened with 3M 4200 last year. We went to West Marine and they had pulled all the 4200 from the shelves because all of the material had started to harden in the tubes. Suggest that you feel the tube before you purchase and see if the caulking is still soft. Of course this is a little difficult if you are purchasing a tube for a caulking gun.
Mike: The same thing happened with 3M 4200 last year. We went to West Marine and they had pulled all the 4200 from the shelves because all of the material had started to harden in the tubes. Suggest that you feel the tube before you purchase and see if the caulking is still soft. Of course this is a little difficult if you are purchasing a tube for a caulking gun.
G
Guest
3M web site
We've been on this topic before. I recommend visiting the 3M website, adn reading the product data. 4200 is not the best thing for sealing deck hardware, adn certainly not for teak. It also cures when exposed to moisture, so its tough to keep around once opened. The best all purpose deck hardware sealant is 3M 101, which is a polysulfide. For below the waterline, or when sanding and painting is called for, 4200 or 5200 are better. see link
We've been on this topic before. I recommend visiting the 3M website, adn reading the product data. 4200 is not the best thing for sealing deck hardware, adn certainly not for teak. It also cures when exposed to moisture, so its tough to keep around once opened. The best all purpose deck hardware sealant is 3M 101, which is a polysulfide. For below the waterline, or when sanding and painting is called for, 4200 or 5200 are better. see link
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