Rebed Stanchions - HELP!

[dph123]

I have a leak on my 1998 Hunter 310 and believe it comes from a stanchion. I pulled the stanchion off, cleaned it up, and readied it for butyl tape. I used the instructions I found online and watched a sailrite video and did exactly as shown. Unfortunately, on my boat, the backing plate is not accessible, and so when I tried to screw in the stanchion (down about an inch) the butyl tape got all screwed up. I noted on the instructions that it is recommended to tighten by NOT using the screw heads, but on the other side. I cannot do that. So, is there a way to get the butyl tape to work (or did I waste $40+). If not, what is the preferred material to re-bed the stanchions.

Additionally, the screws seem REALLY hard to turn as I get close to the end.

I appreciate any help in advance.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Unfortunately, on my boat, the backing plate is not accessible, and so when I tried to screw in the stanchion (down about an inch) the butyl tape got all screwed up.

You've definitely chosen one of the more interesting projects on a Hunter. For many fittings, Hunter (Marlow Hunter ?) doesn't use backing plates, they use buried aluminum plates which are threaded. No nuts involved. This makes for easy construction but not so easy for retrofits.

If you can get the machine screws out in the first place (bad tendency to gall) chase the aluminum threads with the same size tap as the bolt threads. I've used a dab of dielectric grease on the threads with the idea that maybe they'll be coming out again at some time. Be careful not to contaminate the sealing surfaces with the grease. If the threads in the aluminum plate are stripped, you'll have to go up one size.

I don't think you could have screwed up the butyl as this stuff is foolproof as long as it remains between the stanchion and the deck. If you can still get good force from the screws, you should be fine.

And you paid how much for the butyl ?

 

[jeff356]

On my 356 I performed the same task and ran into issues the first time with the butyl tape getting in the threads and making it impossible to tighten up.

In the videos referenced the stanchion bottom is set with butyl tape and is bolted with a nut on the other end and the bolt does not rotate and fowl up the threads. With the backing plate and using screws if any butyl tape gets in the threads on compression it gums up the works and you cannot fully tighten up.

What worked for me-
Make sure the deck is clean and the hole is tapered so there can be extra sealing. Clean out the threads in the backing plate with a tap.
On the deck put a layer of butyl tape and make sure the screw hole is clear, to give room for rotation.
Roll a thin cylinder of butyl tape and build a circle around each screw hole on top of the butyl tape and on final tightening this will fill in around the threads and the tapered hole.
Fully tighten and remove access tape. Make sure to use the correct phillips bit (#3) to not egg out the screw.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,
Jeff
s/v LegaSea
2003 Hunter 356