ready to do the swing keel

Bob · Dec 3, 2003

I have all the kits from Catalina Direct to replace the swing keel parts and renew the keel - except for the vidio - if anyone has one they no longer need please let me know - I also need to know the steps to block up the hull so the keel can be removed.

Ted · Dec 3, 2003

Blocking up your boat . . .

Based on the nature of your question, I assume you have the boat on the trailer and will be working from there.I had to block my boat up about 4 inches to get good clearance. Mostly in the stern, the forward section did not need much additional clearance.I made a wooden brace that held the keel upright while it was being lowered. You'll need some sort of a brace to be ready ahead of time. Also, if you leave the keel cable attached that helps too, because you can use the winch to stabilize the keel. The video probably describes a different process, I did not use the video as a guide.Your biggest problem will be if the keel falls on you (can you say severe injury). I worked from along side the trailer, at a safe distance from the keel. Since the lifting/lowering/support is done by jacks, blocks, etc. there is no need for you to be within striking distance.My web page has some picture of my keel refinish project.Be safe and have fun.Regards,Ted

Bob · Dec 4, 2003

It's the blocking that I'm unsure of

Thanks Ted for the response - yes my boat is on a trailer - I've read about lowering the front of the trailer and then putting blocks under the boat at the rear then re raising the front of the trailer and you then have enough clearance to remove the keel. What I need clairification on is the exact location and size of the blocking that I will put under the boat at the rear. Thanks, Bob

Ted · Dec 4, 2003

I usually jack the boat up . . .

. . .rather than lowering the front. The process you refer to requires boat stands, and I have none.I have a hydralic roll-around jack. I place some strong boards on the frame members of the trailer to act as a platform for the jack. I use a 1 foot square board as a lifting pad to make contact with the hull. If you try to lift directly with the small pad of the jack, it will just punch a hole in the hull (that's bad).There are only certain areas where you can safely lift/support the boat. These are areas where the interior structure of the boat joins the hull (i.e. bulkheads). On the port side (left), it is near the front of the cockpit where the cabin starts. On the starboard side (right) it is about 1/3 the way along the cabin (from the back). This location ends up being about 3 feet more forward than the port side.You will notice in the interior of the boat in both these locations than an interior structure member joins with the hull. If you try to lift/support the boat in "non-supported" areas of the hull, it will bend and damage the hull.The bow is a much stronger and can be lifted either just in front of the keel trunk or more towards the front roller on the trailer.When I jack up a side of the boat, I place some short 2 x 6 boards on the bunks and lower it back down on those boards. So, the bunks are still carrying the load, not the jack. I think I needed 3 (2 x 6) boards in the back to get sufficient clearance to remove the keel.The key things are that everything should be "over-engineered" when lifting, and the jack should only do the initial lifting, blocks, etc. should do the supporting.You can accomplish the same thing if you have boat stands rather than a jack. My only concern about lowering the front of the trailer, supporting the stern with stands, and then raising the front of the trailer, is that the process may tend to topple the stands in the back.Be safe !!!I hope this helps,TedP.S. I also use this lifting process for painting the hull under the areas of the bunks.

Bob · Dec 5, 2003

now I'm set

Thanks Ted - this is the exact information that I was looking for. I've also put you site into favorites for future reference.Regards, Bob