Re. non-skid.

[Ed Schenck]

It was great having Morrie visit my boat. He came all the way from Hawaii just to see Ladylove. Well it happens that his dad and brother live in Ohio which may have been a factor.As for the sidedeck non-skid, still nothing done. I think Josh and I had finished the white when you were there. The cabin trunk had been done previously so we only had to do the edges and around the anchor locker. We used Interlux Toplac for that, it goes on so easily with just a brush. I mix White and Off White, 2/3 and 1/3 to kill some of the brightness.Just very uncertain as to how to proceed with the non-skid. You saw how my cabin trunk looked. It is a very good surface so far as skid resistance. It is Off White Interlux Brightside with Interlux grit mixed in the can. It looked so good when first applied but has picked up that shadow that you saw.Then I read in a recent post that someone has seen their Brightside wear away quickly in high traffic zones. My cockpit sole was done that way and has not retained its skid resistance very well. The paint has not worn out, rather it just seems too slippery. I tell you all of this in hopes of generating some discussion and new ideas.

 

[David Underwood]

I redid mine 3 years ago...

The method I used was to prepare the surface, sanding, cleaning, wiping with acetone, then rolling down a nice coat of primer, while wet, sprinkle fine clean sand until I had completely covered the wet paint, let dry, sweep and vacum up loose sand, then recoat with color coat which has flatteners and micro glass beads, then recoat again, and one more time for good measure. Let complete dry before walking on it. Excellant resistance to traffic, excellant non skid qualities. After 3 years, still in good shape. excuse my spelling please.David Underwood"Freebird" Hunter 33 1982 model

 

[Seattle Scott]

Ed, I am still in first season

of repainted nonskid, so perhaps too early to make any judgments. But I used Epiphane with the poly pro beads (looks a lot like baking soda) added. I'll see if I have any pics to post next week. I rolled it on with a 4" roller after taping. Prep was just a wipe down with acetone as the surface was paint in good condition but with worn out skid. I'll try to link to my previous post on this. Scott

 

[Paul F]

rubberized?

Just killing time today, waiting for the storm and looking around at BoatUS, I found rubberized paint used for non-skid. Wondering if anyone has used this paint. My 33 also requires deck resurfacing. I fixed a soft spot a few months ago and painted it with epoxy to get by in the hot months, now need to repaint the non-skid area.

 

[OBX Sailor]

I just did mine this summer

I just did my complete cabin top and deck on my H-37C this summer. I used Brightside for the "smooth" areas and now Interlux has the non-skid premixed in with the paint. I dont have the can handy but I want to say it was called "Interrdeck". It is located along with the paints at West marine stores. Simple to use and works. Looks great too.

 

[Ed Schenck]

For OBX Sailor.

Thanks for the tip about Interdeck. I see in the catalog that there is a good color selection. What color did you use? How did you prep and then apply? How much traffic so far?In the attached picture you can see the shadowing I mentioned. I like the non-skid properties and the color otherwise. In some places there are pencil point black marks, almost like a mildew. But I have found nothing that will clean it. I think I will try some Interdeck, maybe just on the anchor locker lid as a test.

 

[Carl Foster]

non skid

Ed, In the past in this forum i touted Brightside very highly,very,very user friendly.excellent flow out,topnotch gloss but one downside,very poor wear resistance. Above the rail on my boat is Brightside,except for non-skid areas-deck and cabin top.When initially done had spiderweb cracks all over so used Interprotect 2000 as primer[it is in actuallity a high fill epoxy primer.Then applied two coats with four inch roller of Sterling linear polyeurothane[sp]with Awl-grip medium non-skid mico ballons.Oyster white paint and white nonskid=very light tan?I like it.Excellent results.Deck has 10 years on it and now in need of recoat.Cabin top got recoat two years ago when i made new hand rails. Carl PS quite expensive but results worth it IMHO

 

[Richard Bryer]

Black dots in non skid

I had the same problem with black mildew dtd in the non shid- mine is a 34 and has the diamond grid type of non skid. I tried Tilex mildew formula this weekend and it works great- I sprayed the surface of a small area with water, sprayed with Tilex, let sit a few seconds then scrubbed with a stiff brush and rinsed well. worked really well

 

[OBX Sailor8569]

Mine is White

Ed, I did my non-skid in white to match the cabin top. I dont have any pix yet but I will try to get some soon. I have a few things left to finish up and mother nature isnt cooperating to well. Too wet lately.I sand the deck with my Dewalt random orbital sander and 100 grit,then 150,then 220. Then I washed the deck areas with actone to clean the oils etc. After that, I taped and rolled the places that I could do with a small roller (4") and brushed where it was too narrow. I applied two coats and may do one more just for good sticking since we liveaboard during the week, our deck gets walked on more than most. So far I love it, works easily and cleans up using a little diluted bleach and soap mix and a brush.OBX Sailor& OBX MateS/V BAD BOYColington Island, NC

 

[Carl Foster]

White white=Tan

My original desire was matching white nonskid but for some reason the Oyster White Sterling and Awl-Grip white micro ballons turned a very light tan.Actually like the result. Know what you mean on moisture in the air.Charley now Frances has made liveaboard life very interesting.No power or water in marina and no prospect of soon restore.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks Carl and OBX.

Frances is to hit here tonight so there will be no painting for awhile. But thanks for the tips.I do not recognize your location Carl but it sounds like you came through Frances alright. I talked to Tom H. over at Merritt Island and his H37C survived as did his home. I guess they lost some trees and a gutter or two. They also are without power and do not expect it back for some time.How about Ed A. on Davis Island? There were pictures of the Davis Island bridge in our paper this morning. Hard to believe that little section of the bay could churn up like that! Your H37C OK Ed?

 

[Carl Foster]

Location

Ed, Located on ST.Johns river approx.60 miles nw Daytona.[straight line between Gainsville/Daytona on St.Johns is Welaka.]

 

[sam Lust20932]

David Underwood -- "sand"?

I'm very interested in your sand technique. The non-skid on my '83 33 is beyond shot. The paint is picking off to the point you'd think it has the chicken pox. It also has the "shadow" Ed talks about. I would go ahead with the Interdeck or similar paint with plastic beads blown or mixed in but it seems to me the plastic would tend to wear away as soon as the paint layer above it is worn off. In referring to sand, are you talking about plain old fine mason's sand at about $5.00 a bag? I happen to have a couple of 50# bags laying around from the sandblasting project. non-skid would be a great use for it, although not 100 pounds I hope! I'm curious what the surface looks like and for that matter feels like. Think you could post a very close-up picture? The method sounds like the most likely to perform and last a while. I only want to do this once!

 

[Terry Arnold]

sand for non skid

Also 3 years ago like David Underwood I redid the nonskid on my 79 H33 using a similar technique. After sanding the old which in my case had been repainted earlier, the nonskid was painted with the two part Interlux 404/414 epoxy primer, working in sections. While wet, the sand is sifted over the wet primer, making sure that there is an excess (vacuumed off later). When dry it was coated with two coats of Interlux Brightside. I couldn't be happier with the result. It just doesn't allow slipping, wet or dry. Biggest downside is that its hard on knees and tender feet. Biggest problem in putting it down was keeping a wet edge. The 404 expoxy primer has a short open time and it is neccessary to break the job up in segments leaving a wet unsanded edge at the end of one segment to marry over into the next. Helps to have a helper to spread the sand. Sand also needs to be of uniform size. I believe that Sam Lust's sand blasting sand might be perfect but would be a good idea to try a small area to check the texture before committing.

 

[Terry Arnold]

photo quality

I just posted a perfectly good photo but when viewed, is useless. Phil, something wrong with the site? I also notice that David Underwood's earlier photo is likewise smeared...and he is a professional photographer. anybody want to see the photo can email me tgarnold1@msn.com

 

[Ed Schenck]

Looks good here Terry.

If you mean the photo from your previous post I just viewed it. It looks good from here. And I appreciate the input. Still have not made a decision.

 

[Phil Herring]

Looks fine from here

I'm viewing it from home, off the network, and it looks good. Could be a problem with your browser. Is a progressive jpeg that becomes sharper as it loads? Perhaps it is not fully loaded.

 

[Terry Arnold]

oops! photo quality my problem not site

Ed and Phil. I was-am using a dial up connection with ms explorer and had the accelerator option turned all the way up and then didn't realize that a reboot is necessary for a change in setting to take effect. Photo that the site has shows pretty well the texture of the sand based non skid.

 

[dprior]

Non Skid

EdI have checked all the comments about non skid and all seem to be okay but complicated. I have a 84 H37C and I am the only owner so I know the status of my decks.The nonskid totally wore off a few years back and I went through the thought process that you are now starting.The end result was that it is really not a big deal. It takes more time to mask the deck areas than to paint them. I just washed everything very well, masked the edges and then painted using a 4" roller. I used Interlux Brightside with the Interlux nonskid glass beads (?) mixed into the paint. The key to keeping the non skid on the deck is to mix the "beads" very well with the paint. The beads are porous and must absorb some paint to really be imbedded. If you do not let it sit for a few moments the beads are just sitting in the paint and will scrape off.I only did one coat and it looks great. It is relatively new (2 years I think) and of course I am up here in Gods Country where we do not have the extremes of weather. I started with my H37C in Corpus Christi so I know what weather (ie sun) can do to a deck.I covered my cockpit with a grate so I do not really have any high wear areas.By the way, the closest colour to the original nonskid is Interlux "Seattle Gray".I will try to get a picture to show you. Fair winds.Don

 

[Ed Schenck]

Thanks Don.

What you explained is exactly what I did in the cockpit for the sole and locker lids. Also on the cabin trunk. And that is what is seen in the picture. So if yours is holding up that well I guess my problem is the color that I chose. And I really want to get to a much lighter color. I have about decided that I will try a quart of the Interlux premixed expecially for nonskid.