Re-Bedding Windows

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Allen8700

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Dec 16, 2008
2
Hunter 23.5 Lake Norman
The larger (long) windows on the port and starboard sides of our 1994 23.5 have some areas along the upper edge that have separated from the sealant holding them on. As far as I can tell the other three sides of the windows are in good shape. Searching the forums it looks like Dow 736, black is the sealant to use due to expansion/contraction variances between the window material and fiberglass. If I understand correctly, this is what Hunter uses. I would prefer to re-seal without having to completely remove the windows, but don’t know if this is possible. Anyone got any experience doing this? Alternatively, has anyone re-bedded this type window? If so, what is the best way to remove the window without breaking it (hopefully) and are there any tips for re-bedding without making a huge mess? Lastly, since the windows aren’t flat, does anyone know of a good way to make sure they stay in contact with the hull while they cure? Thanks in advance.

Allen
 
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Steve Dion

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Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
That would be DOW795 is the product of choice for rebedding those windows.

The old sealant is a silicone based caulking and you need to cut the seal to remove the acrylic. You may want to consider replacing the acrylic now because you don't want to be doing this again.

Once the window is completely removed you will need to clean both surfaces the best you can. Then you can mask off the area and rebed the window.

Check and see if there are screw holes in the existing acrylic. If there is, then you can put screws in there to hold the window in place while the 795 cures. Be sure to remove the screws and fill the holes with another spot of 795.

You can try to reseal the widnow without removing it, but there is a good chance that you need to do it the right way again.
 
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owner23.5

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Oct 16, 2008
184
hunteer 23.5 st lawerence
take a closer look at that window. mines a 1993 23.5 and I can see my starboard and port side windows have have appears to be silicone from a caulking gun in a squiggly lines that are between the glass and the solid fiberglass "areas where the glass contacts a large surface area of the boat thinking at both ends" this might be hard to seperate as I dont know what you would use to get in that deep without flexing the window.
 
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Steve Dion

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Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Another method is to use high test fishing line to "cut" through the caulking.

Tie a piece of wood (or something else) to a piece of fishing line and feed it through from the inside/outside and tie the other end to it. Then have your best friend pull on one end as you pull on the other to cut through the caulk.
 
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Crazy Dave Condon

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Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
The hardest part is to get the window out and I found that a very thin blade even thinner than a putty knife is the way to get the sealent broken first as you do not want to lift the lexan too much or you could crack it. Once done and you can fish fishing line all the way thru like Steve Dion suggests, then cut the rest of the caulking with it.

Clean off all the old silicon. Never use acetone but alcohol only. Tape off area to apply sealant with. I found archeticural grade 100% silicon from Ace hardware is the same as Dow. Tried other sealants but they never held as good as the Dow or Ace but if it is pure 100% archeticularly grade then it will work.

crazy dave
 
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Allen8700

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Dec 16, 2008
2
Hunter 23.5 Lake Norman
Thanks!

All,
Thanks for the information. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

Allen
 
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Crazy Dave Condon

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Jun 8, 2004
10,532
-na -NA Anywhere USA
Allen;

If you ever need help over there, contact the service manager at All Seasons, Tim McCrory as he has worked on that style boat.

Crazy Dave Condon
 
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