Re-bedding the Stanchions ......................

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Jan 4, 2006
7,196
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
..... on our 1999 H310 is one of my endless winter projects.

Has anyone ever done this on a Hunter where the stanchions are attached by bolting into buried, threaded backing plates ? These backing plates are 3/8 aluminum plate which are buried in the wet fiberglass while the boat is under construction rather than using
through bolts and a backing plate under the deck. This makes for easy construction and doesn't require interior access holes to get to the nuts. When installing the hardware, a snug hole is drilled through the surface glass and aluminum plate and a SS machine screw cuts its own thread into the aluminum. No nuts and no interior backing plate required.

So much for the history ............. it's now 14 years later and I'm starting to worry about how well the two screws you see on the deck are sealed against water ingress. I'm not too worried about the two machine screws in the toe rail as it's made of solid fiberglass. The deck is probably plywood and subject to problems.

I recently re-bedded a leaking forward cleat which was bolted to a buried backing plate in the toe rail. The 5/16 machine screws looked like spaghetti when they finally came out. I felt like spaghetti when they finally came out. :eek: New machine screws were not going to go back into the buried backing plate without a battle. In this case, I was able to drill through the buried backing plate and through bolt with new machine screws, nuts, and backing plate.

Please share your experiences ......................... try to re-bed them and perhaps make matters worse or get religious and pray they'll last for the next thirty years without water ingress ? ;)
 

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May 24, 2004
470
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI
Ralph, I re-bedded mine on our 1990 H-33.5 a few years back. I was dumb enough one year to put a winter tarp over the stanchions and lifelines, and over the winter the side loading from high winds bent 5 of the 6 stanchions, cracking/tearing the tube on one. (I never did that again.) A local metal & weld shop repaired the damaged one and straightened the others - great job by them. I was surprised at how easy the 4 P.H. machine screws came out. After the repairs, I re-bedded each plate (mine had a single flat plate with 4 screws on the same plane) with either 5200 or one of the Boat Life caulking materials. I just don't remember which on I used. I covered the whole surface and put some in each hole. after putting all screws in place, I just wiped of the excess that oozed out. It all went smoothly.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,196
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
Thanks for the reply Navigator.

Sounds like your re-bedding went smoothly. Did you have any problems with getting the machine screws back into the aluminum backing plates ................. cross threading, jamming, etc. ?
 
May 24, 2004
470
Hunter 33.5 Portsmouth, RI
No problems getting the machine screws back. Maybe I was just lucky. Try 'feeling' the screw entry by fingers to be sure there is no cross threading.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Be sure that you coat your screws with Tef-Gel before screwing stainless steel into aluminum. It "can" be almost impossible to remove them in the future.
 
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