Re-bedding deck hardware

[jbreland]

Re-beding deck hardware.I want to re-bed all my deck hardware including chain plates and rudder pintles.1st question, Is 3M 4200 ok for this? That and Marine silicone is all I can buy locally.I can get 5200 also but understand that’s for permanent installations.2nd question, I was reading of a method on here about applying the adhesive/sealant and then only partially tightening the hardware and then let it sit till it cures and then coming back and re-tighten so the adheasive will be under comprssion. Should I do it like this, or just apply the adhesive and then tighten it down and wipe up excess.I guess what I’m asking is what is the proper way to re-bed deck hardware and what adhesives/sealants should I use?Also when it comes time what do I use to rebed the windows?ThanksJames

 

[Don]

lots of info available

you can do a search for marine sealants or their various tradenames for lots of info.Basically there are 4 primary sealant formulations:Polysulfides - bonds well to most surfaces except plastics and oily woodPolyurethanes - usually for permanent bonding and is good for most surfaces except ABS and lexan, Good for hull-to-deck joints, thru-hull fittings and any other permanently bonded hardwareSilicones - most eleastic of these three but lowest adhesive strength. Bonds well to anythingPolyethers similar to 3M4000UV but lower in price - remains most flexible and bonds well.If that doesn't help, some examples for your use might be 3M 101 or WM Polysulfide Sealer, West Marine Multi-Caulk which is a polyether or better still would be Boatlife Seal which is a combination polyurethane/silicone sealant, highly flexible but with better adhesive strength than polyurethane and can be removed later without damage.In every case, it is advisable to not tighten down the fitting before it cures so as to allow it to form a gasket before squeezing it all out.If you can find butyl tape, that would likely be best for rebedding the windowsDon

 

[Wanderer138]

Use polysulfide for chainplates

Polysulfide (LifeCaulk) is the only thing you should use for the chainplates as it is the only sealant that can tolerate the movement that this area undergoes when sailing. If you've never done recaulked the chainplates before, I'd suggest doing t while the mast is down so you can disconnect the turnbuckles and do a proper job.Unscrew and remove the beauty plate (cover), then unbolt the chainplate from the bulkhead belowbecks. Check the condition of the bulkhead carefully, especially the chainplate bolt holes. Dry the wood properly and saturate with Git-Rot or thinned epoxy so it won't absorb water in the future. Clean the slot in the deck and remove any rotten core back to sound material. Then fill back to the face of the slot with epoxy filler or thickened epoxy, making sure the slot remains unobstructed. Finally, bolt the chainplate back into place on the bulkhead.Before cailking, mask the deck, beauty plate and the chainplate above the beauty plate with tape. Then squeeze caulk on the deck and set the beauty plate in place. Some people also recommend filling the gap between the slot and chainplate with caulk. Wipe off the excess with your finger inside an old plastic bag and leave the caulk to cure. Then screw the beauty plate down. You don't need a lot of pressure. Polysulfide loses its flexibility over time, so you should recaulk every couple of yars or so. However, if you did it the first time as decsribed above, all you have to do after that is raise the beauty plates and tape them up against the turnbuckles, scrape off the old caulk, apply new caulk and drop the beauty plates back in place (about an hour total for both sides, a little more if you mask first). Good luck.PeterH23 "Raven"

 

[Wanderer138]

Redoing rudder pintles

You may need a #3 Philips screwdriver for this job (you can also use it if you ever have to unbolt the chainplates).Crawl into the deck locker with a socket and undo the bolts. There's lots of room in there (I'm 6'-2" and 260 lb). A piece of scrap carpet makes things comfortable.Check the wood core for rot. If there is any, either dry the wood out carefully and apply some Git-Rot or thinned epoxy, or remove the rotten wood. Close off the holes on the inside of the hull with tape, then fill from the outside with epoxy. This seals the core to prevent water intrusion in the future if the caulk fails. When the epoxy cures, drill the holes out to the diameter of the bolts and refit the pintles. I used white silicone but 3M 4200 will work also. Good luck.PeterH23 "Raven"