Raymarine EV-100 autopilot

[marchem]

Any one install a Raymarine EV-100 autopilot on their C310 and have advice or thoughts? Defender has a good price on them and RM is doing a rebate, so it's not too painful to do.

I think the drive unit on the wheel is the same as the ST-4000 (?) and I've read a few threads here from people working with that. I think the main differences with the new EV-100 are the sensor and "brains", plus there's no rudder position sensor.

Thanks.

 

[JohnVTX]

Jusy installed on my 30. No issues

 

[paulj]

marchem

When I installed my unit last year, I had to buy a $100 part from Raymarine and at that time Raymarine suggested I have the firmware of the new EV checked for latest version.
Had to run new cable up to pedestal.
Since I had an existing rudder sensor, I hooked that up also.
I used double sided tape to install autopilot in pedestal housing......you will know what I mean when you get there.

paulj

 

[marchem]

Jusy installed on my 30. No issues

Good to hear. Are you controlling it from a p70, an MFD, or both? I've got an e7D, but am thinking that having the dedicated p70 display might also be nice. Besides, the p70 comes in the package.

 

[JohnVTX]

Good to hear. Are you controlling it from a p70, an MFD, or both? I've got an e7D, but am thinking that having the dedicated p70 display might also be nice. Besides, the p70 comes in the package.

P70 is what i use and it works great.

 

[marchem]

marchem

When I installed my unit last year, I had to buy a $100 part from Raymarine and at that time Raymarine suggested I have the firmware of the new EV checked for latest version. Had to run new cable up to pedestal.
Since I had an existing rudder sensor, I hook that up also.
I used double sided tape to install autopilot in pedestal housing......you will know what I mean when you get there.

paulj

I've already got that Seatalk to Seatalkng part-used it when I installed the e7D MFD so the old ST60s would talk to the it. Your wiring gives me some good ideas on how to connect all of this together. Thanks.

The back of your boat looks so much cleaner than mine. I've got some work to do!!

Did you build that platform for the EV1 to make it level?

 

[paulj]

Did you build that platform for the EV1 to make it level?

Yes

 

[JamesG161]

RM is doing a rebate,

Carefull, I never got my Raymarine rebate ( got a qualifying confirmation 5 months after the rebate application) and when I thought about it after 6 months their rebate had expired.
I never have heard of that before.
Jim...

 

[JohnVTX]

I got my rebate

 

[Maine Sail]

Any one install a Raymarine EV-100 autopilot on their C310 and have advice or thoughts? Defender has a good price on them and RM is doing a rebate, so it's not too painful to do.

I think the drive unit on the wheel is the same as the ST-4000 (?) and I've read a few threads here from people working with that. I think the main differences with the new EV-100 are the sensor and "brains", plus there's no rudder position sensor.

Thanks.

Yet to see any AP really perform the best they can without one. Just because it no longer comes as standard equipment does not mean it is not necessary.

I simply will not install an AP without one and this includes the numerous Evolution series AP's I have installed. I will let a customer walk to a lower bidder rather than do the install without a rudder ref... Simply not worth it...

Drive wheel is identical to MKII wheel pilots (gray not black) and if you already had a rudder reference sensor DO NOT remove it......

Also if you decide to add a remote it runs on the legacy ST network so will need to run through a ST to STng converter as would any existing ST legacy instruments.

Before you commission the system make sure you update the EV sensor, the ACU, the P-70 head and your plotter. The software updates will communicate through the STng bus when you initiate the process on the plotter. You'll want a SanDisk Micro SD card as I have found other brands spotty or unreliable for Ray software updates. Garmin IIRC mandates it be SanDisk brand........

 

[Gene Neill]

Carefull, I never got my Raymarine rebate ( got a qualifying confirmation 5 months after the rebate application) and when I thought about it after 6 months their rebate had expired.
I never have heard of that before.
Jim...

Happens all the time. Rebates are a scam. The larger the rebate, the better the chances are it will mysteriously get "lost". You have to keep copies of everything, and stay on top of the process until you get your money ... or there's a good chance you'll never get it.

 

[marchem]

Yet to see any AP really perform the best they can without one. Just because it no longer comes as standard equipment does not mean it is not necessary.

I simply will not install an AP without one and this includes the numerous Evolution series AP's I have installed. I will let a customer walk to a lower bidder rather than do the install without a rudder ref... Simply not worth it...

Drive wheel is identical to MKII wheel pilots (gray not black) and if you already had a rudder reference sensor DO NOT remove it......

Also if you decide to add a remote it runs on the legacy ST network so will need to run through a ST to STng converter as would any existing ST legacy instruments.

Before you commission the system make sure you update the EV sensor, the ACU, the P-70 head and your plotter. The software updates will communicate through the STng bus when you initiate the process on the plotter. You'll want a SanDisk Micro SD card as I have found other brands spotty or unreliable for Ray software updates. Garmin IIRC mandates it be SanDisk brand........

Good to know. Raymarine has really hidden the rudder sensor on their web site, but I did finally find info on it, as well as a part #. No AP currently installed, so I'm starting from fresh. I've already dealt with the ST1 to STng connection, and got that working nicely. I'll definitely update everything from the e7D once they're wired up.

 

[marchem]

marchem

When I installed my unit last year, I had to buy a $100 part from Raymarine and at that time Raymarine suggested I have the firmware of the new EV checked for latest version.
Had to run new cable up to pedestal.
Since I had an existing rudder sensor, I hooked that up also.
I used double sided tape to install autopilot in pedestal housing......you will know what I mean when you get there.

paulj

Paul, from your pictures it looks like you mounted your ACU controller on a board perpendicular to the aft bulkhead. How is the board attached to the bulkhead? Did you consider mounting it on the forward face of that bulkhead, in the aft bunk area?

 

[paulj]

marchem

Did you consider mounting it on the forward face of that bulkhead, in the aft bunk area?

No .

How is the board attached to the bulkhead?

See picture.

paulj

 

[marchem]

marchem

Did you consider mounting it on the forward face of that bulkhead, in the aft bunk area?

No .

How is the board attached to the bulkhead?

See picture.

paulj

Thanks. At first I thought you mounted it on the bulkhead, but there's too much on there already. Have you noticed any issues with the sensor mounted so far aft?

 

[paulj]

Have you noticed any issues with the sensor mounted so far aft?

It works.............


paulj

 

[marchem]

Finally installed the wheel drive yesterday (step 1). Had to move the engine control pod down a few inches to make it work. Several people mentioned doing that. Mine came off easily (no adhesive). There were two screws and a bolt at the top. I wondered why they used a bolt, but figured it would just drop inside the pedestal. Later I realized it was actually holding a bracket for the engine control cables!! Luckily I was able to get the bolt back in place and locked down. We had a problem with the engine pod rubbing against the wheel. I was able to rotate things when I drilled new holes so that doesn't happen any more. I ran the control wires thru a water tight fitting into the engine pod and down the tube. So far, so good.