The 3YN engine on my new 33 shut down after 90 hours. After having a Yanmar mechanic check it out, I discovered that the filters were clogged up with crud. There was debri around the opening in the fuel tank where the sensor goes in left from the factory. I wonder if there was also debri in the tank from the factory. The raycor filter on the engine is a 120RMA30(30micron). I have not been able to find a replacement. I did replace the bad filter with a raycor 10 micron filter. I added bio chlor the first time I added fuel but this may have been the first time. West Marine has speculated that if there was no additive in the beginning, then after I added the additive it could have killed a fungus that was already growing and the debri is whats left over. I have pumped some diesel out of the bottom of the tank and noticed crud but then it seemed O.K. Any comments or suggestion concerning this situation and where I can get a 30 micron filter for a 3YN?
Raycor Filter
- Thread starter JohnEh
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algae not likely
Since it is a new boat it's highly unlikely that algae had time to grow in your fuel, probably just the crud from the tank. Now you know where your filters are and how to change them
Since it is a new boat it's highly unlikely that algae had time to grow in your fuel, probably just the crud from the tank. Now you know where your filters are and how to change them
Filter Change
Yes, now I know where they are and how to change them, but what I don't know is where to find the filter like the one which was on the boat. Also, if the crud came from the factory, why should I have the expense of cleaning up their oversight. I have also discovered that I did not get a complete bottom paint job. A diver discovered that the bottom was not painted in one place(we assume where the ground support was).
Yes, now I know where they are and how to change them, but what I don't know is where to find the filter like the one which was on the boat. Also, if the crud came from the factory, why should I have the expense of cleaning up their oversight. I have also discovered that I did not get a complete bottom paint job. A diver discovered that the bottom was not painted in one place(we assume where the ground support was).
Big Ordeal
I now know that for the most part my Yanmar dealer is no help with the raycor filter and Hunter did not know where to get one either. If you search the web for Parker, you will then find raycor is a trade name under Parker. I have now learned that the raycor from the factory has a metal bowl so you can not see what is in it.(for use on gasoline engines) Raycor makes a clear bowl that you can use when using diesel. Raycor told me who to contact to get the correct filter and bowl(not West Marine)( actually I contacted Green Marine in Metairie). They have the 30 micron filter and the clear bowl. At this point, however, I think the engine failed due to crud in the tank from the factory. Hunter advised that the clear bowl would be a good upgrade. I suggest for other s to get one sooner than later. The Yanmar dealer is trying to charge me $65 per hour while the mechanic stayed on the boat and I ran all over town looking for a filter that was unavailable and the Yanmar dealer said they didn't know wher to find one and I finally put a 10 on instead of a 30.
I now know that for the most part my Yanmar dealer is no help with the raycor filter and Hunter did not know where to get one either. If you search the web for Parker, you will then find raycor is a trade name under Parker. I have now learned that the raycor from the factory has a metal bowl so you can not see what is in it.(for use on gasoline engines) Raycor makes a clear bowl that you can use when using diesel. Raycor told me who to contact to get the correct filter and bowl(not West Marine)( actually I contacted Green Marine in Metairie). They have the 30 micron filter and the clear bowl. At this point, however, I think the engine failed due to crud in the tank from the factory. Hunter advised that the clear bowl would be a good upgrade. I suggest for other s to get one sooner than later. The Yanmar dealer is trying to charge me $65 per hour while the mechanic stayed on the boat and I ran all over town looking for a filter that was unavailable and the Yanmar dealer said they didn't know wher to find one and I finally put a 10 on instead of a 30.
John Keep using the 10 micron - it will pick up more crap that might show up in the tank, albeit at the cost of having to change it more often. I use the 500 series Racor filter and I use the 10 micron in the Racor, then down stream of that is my electric fuel pump with an unknown micron filter in it (I suspect it is at least 10 or more microns) and then there is the spin on fuel filter on my Universal M25 diesel which is I believe a 9 or 10 Micron. I change my Racor filter once mid season and then at the end of the season so it is ready in the spring. I also change the spin on at the same interval. I don't motor much preffering to sail so I only put about 40 hours a season on the motor. I keep only my spare filters on board (...in a plastic peanut butter jar so that when I change it I drain the contents of the inspection bowl into the empty container and then drop in the dirty filter...) The clear bowl is an excellent idea. Good Luck and happy sailing! Mike
Fine Filter - Plus and Minus
There are a couple ways to look at using a fine filter. On the one hand, it picks up smaller particles and since the diesel recycles the surplus fuel back to the tank, in effect, the fuel is supposed to get cleaner. On the other hand, a finer filter will have more head loss and cause the diaphram fuel pump to work harder which can result in premature failure. Soooo... which is better? 10µ or 30µ? My main concern would be with the junk that settles on the bottom of the tank and can come loose. For this one doesn't need a fine filter because it'll clog up in no time. For that matter, even a coarse filter is going to clog up. Soooo.... (again), the best solution is to get into the tank and clean it out or remove the tank and replace it with a new one and take the old one to the recycle center. Metal bowls: True, they're required for gas installations but they're also required for commerical diesel installations. Editorial comment: The plastic bowl looks nice but frankly I've never been able to see water in the bottom of my bowl. Maybe I've just been lucky and never had any???
There are a couple ways to look at using a fine filter. On the one hand, it picks up smaller particles and since the diesel recycles the surplus fuel back to the tank, in effect, the fuel is supposed to get cleaner. On the other hand, a finer filter will have more head loss and cause the diaphram fuel pump to work harder which can result in premature failure. Soooo... which is better? 10µ or 30µ? My main concern would be with the junk that settles on the bottom of the tank and can come loose. For this one doesn't need a fine filter because it'll clog up in no time. For that matter, even a coarse filter is going to clog up. Soooo.... (again), the best solution is to get into the tank and clean it out or remove the tank and replace it with a new one and take the old one to the recycle center. Metal bowls: True, they're required for gas installations but they're also required for commerical diesel installations. Editorial comment: The plastic bowl looks nice but frankly I've never been able to see water in the bottom of my bowl. Maybe I've just been lucky and never had any???
racor replacements
try doing a search for parker-hanafin the manufacturer of the filter. PS some of the older filters have benn discontinued. the 500fa is a fine filter cya Mike
try doing a search for parker-hanafin the manufacturer of the filter. PS some of the older filters have benn discontinued. the 500fa is a fine filter cya Mike
algae in my new 36
John, Please read my forum "Algae in my new 36". I had a similar problem this past week, and my engine shut down while motoring in Tangier sound with 15-20 kt wind and high current. Needless to say, it was at a most inopportune moment. After extensive researching and talking to sages of the sea, I am convinced that it was in the tank at commissioning. The Hunter rep told me that boats are shipped to the dealer with 5 gallons of fuel. I know my boat sat on the hard prior to the 2003 Annapolis boat show and was put in the water January 2004. I have no proof that the tank was filled then or it sat for a while longer with just 5 gallons of fuel...perfect conditions for condensation and a good breeding ground for algae. My boat was commissioned April 1, 2004. I'm going to give a follow-up on my forum on the extensive fix of emptying the tank of 25 gallons and cleaning it.
John, Please read my forum "Algae in my new 36". I had a similar problem this past week, and my engine shut down while motoring in Tangier sound with 15-20 kt wind and high current. Needless to say, it was at a most inopportune moment. After extensive researching and talking to sages of the sea, I am convinced that it was in the tank at commissioning. The Hunter rep told me that boats are shipped to the dealer with 5 gallons of fuel. I know my boat sat on the hard prior to the 2003 Annapolis boat show and was put in the water January 2004. I have no proof that the tank was filled then or it sat for a while longer with just 5 gallons of fuel...perfect conditions for condensation and a good breeding ground for algae. My boat was commissioned April 1, 2004. I'm going to give a follow-up on my forum on the extensive fix of emptying the tank of 25 gallons and cleaning it.
Bypass Filter
I added a new filter with the clear bowel as the main filter and then with valves, plumped the old filter in parallel. Now I can see the new filter and crud and change filters in a hurry by switching valves.
I added a new filter with the clear bowel as the main filter and then with valves, plumped the old filter in parallel. Now I can see the new filter and crud and change filters in a hurry by switching valves.
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