Rattling Autohelm

  • Thread starter Gene B. s/v Paradigm
  • Start date
Status
Not open for further replies.
G

Gene B. s/v Paradigm

My brand new Autohelm 4000 rattles and lurches when you turn it. I tried completely removing the belt, and it still rattles and binds slightly. It makes operating the wheel in manual mode an annoying experience. After many calls over several months to customer service, I finally sent it in. They sent it back and said the rattling and binding were normal. They even sent another one, and it did the same thing. It sounds like a gravel truck when you try to spin the wheel, even with the belt completely removed. Is this something that eventually improves? Seems like with 7 idler pulleys, the rotation would be smooth, but it sure isn't . I'm stuck now, but if I'd known how noisy the Autohelm 4000 was, I never would have bought it. Would grease or some other treatment help?
 
D

Daniel Jonas

Mine Too

Gene, Be curious about the responses to this. Mine chatters some also. I can live with it, but would be nice to quiet it down. Sounds like yours is worse than mine. Dan Jonas (S/V Feije)
 
B

Bob Kovich

Autohelm 4000

My Autohelm 4000 has made the same noise each time you turn it on. I have learned to live with it as it still works OK.
 
B

Bill Boudreau

Torque Restraint Bracket?

This drive could be quieter, but I have never heard of it being described like a gravel truck. You do not want to try any extra lubrication. Make sure that the torque restraint bracket that goes from the pedestal to the back of the wheel drive is hovering inside the hole on the back of the drive. If the wheel is out of round or if this pin is bottoming out on the back of the drive, this could cause the drive to deflect and bind or be louder than normal.
 
G

Gene B. s/v Paradigm

Not the bracket

It makes the noise without the bracket. The idler wheels are isolated from the belt. Would greasing the idler wheels help? Also, the wheel itself seems poorly formed. The inside edge is very lumpy. I'm surprised that the manufacturing isn't to a higher tolerance. Could the idler wheels be out of round? Apparently others have the same experience.
 
D

Dakota Jim Russell

The manual says . . . . (page 3 of the addendum)

The yellow addemdum to the manual (Page 3) for the ST4000 states: "To prolong the life of the drive belt, the autopilot will now drive the actuator for a few seconds when it is first switched on. This ensures even wear over the complete length of the belt." Also note the following on the same page. "Warning: The wheel drive cluthch should not be engaged or used as a wheel break when the autopilot is not in use."
 
B

Bill Sedgwick

Intermittent Rattle

My ST4000 sounds like the belt is dragging. It frequently occurs and often goes away after sailing. I think my problem is the belt doesn't fully lift off the cogs on the drive pully. I've inspected the unit and replaced the belt and everything looks proper but it continues to be anoying. I thought my problem was unique.
 
G

Gene B. s/v Paradigm

Not the Belt

Not sure what Dakota Jim's point is. Let me restate what I said in my original post. I completely removed the belt from the unit and it still rattles. This is not about the drive motor, the belt, or the bracket. It's about the outer wheel spinning on the idler wheels making noise and binding as it goes around. Once again, this is even with the belt removed. No motor, no belt, no bracket. This isn't about the unit operating on line, but when it's disconnected. Just holding the unit in my lap and spinning it, it rattles. Manually operating the boat with this thing on the wheel (once again, no belt or bracket) is noisy and drags.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.