I agree with Guy...
Swapping out a toilet AIN'T rocket science...it's not even a skilled labor job. You don't need to pay for grunt work that anyone with just a room temperature IQ and only a little more mechanical ability than it takes to turn doorknobs CAN do. What prob'ly has you spooked are the mounting bolts--how to get the nuts off and put 'em on the new ones. There aren't any nuts...toilet mounting bolts are lag bolts, so all you have to do to remove the old toilet is disconnect the plumbing (warming it with a blow dryer first makes it easier) and and back out the bolts that hold it down. Set the new toilet down...mark where the bolts for it need to go. It won't match the existing holes--it MIGHT match one or two--so use a Sharpie or even a pencil to CAREFULLY mark where you need to drill new holes. Fill the ones you won't use (others here will give you advice about what filler to use)...then drill pilot holes for the new bolts--also lag bolts. Be careful not to make 'em too big...the bolts need to "bite" into the sole if you don't want the toilet to wobble. Once you've gotten this far, you've done the hardest part. Now all you have to do is connect the plumbing. Because the flush water intake fitting is at the front of the PH II, your existing intake line may not be long enough to reach it. If that's the case, replace it with a new 3/4" sanitation hose line that is long enough. Or, this might be an excellent time to tee it into the head sink drain line instead. Connect the discharge hose to the discharge fitting...touch up the filled holes with a little paint that matches your head sole...you're done, except for installing a vented loop in the intake (see the PH II installation instructions. If you already have one installed correctly in your old toilet, you can just move it to the new toilet. Again, warming the hose and lubricating it with dish soap--or better yet, K-Y jelly--makes it much easier to get it onto the fittings. A couple of words of caution: All bolts and screws need to be tight, but be careful not to OVER tighten 'em. That's especially true of the discharge fitting...the flange on the joker valve is also the gasket that seals the fitting to the pump housing...it needs to be tight enough not to leak, but it you tighten it too much, the flange will "pucker," causing it to leak. If the discharge fitting included with the toilet is a straight, but you need a 90-or vice versa--call Raritan...they'll swap it out. Do NOT try to bend the hose to make it work instead...that'll result in a kinked hose. I'd also recommend that you read the installation instructions BEFORE all else fails...and then keep 'em on the boat so you'll have the trouble-shooting guide, exploded drawing and part numbers when you need 'em.
