Ranger 23 Bulkhead Replacement

[POK]

I have just taken ownership of a Ranger 23. It is in pretty good shape, but it does need a bulkhead replacement on the Starboard side. I am interested in anyone's experience replacing a bulkhead (both in general and specific to the Ranger 23).
Would love people's opinion on a replacement versus reinforcing. It is rotten around the stainless steel plate.
If anyone has step by step instructions or video I would be very appreciative.
Thanks, Paul

 

[31seahorse]

Welcome to the SBO Forums, Paul.

Several discussions on the Forum include bulkhead work. There is one at the top of the list that started as a headliner work discussion. Use the Search box at the top of the page to find those discussions. I have done some work on bulkheads, but not on the Ranger 23. Pictures of the area you have to work on would help anyone comment more accurately.

 

[shemandr]

When you say "Stainless steel plate" do you mean the chainplate? If it is rotted there I think the chainplate needs to be re-bedded at the least. You also may have deck core rot in that area too. I can't picture the bulkhead/chain plate relationship on an R23, so it's hard to offer an opinion about whether you could sister some plywood for a repair. As I remember, forward of the starboard bulkhead is a hanging locker or maybe a sink. In either case a good sized piece of marine plywood glued/screwed to the existing bulkhead might do the trick without tearing the boat up. It won't steal that much space. You would have to verify that the tabbing on the existing bulkhead is in good shape.
What to do with the rotted part of the bulkhead? You might be able to cut it out in a regular shape and make a plug out of plywood to replace it. It wouldn't be structural but it and fixing the leak will stop the rotting. If water has wicked into the plywood more than locally you may indeed need to replace it.

 

[CarlN]

This is likely to be a bigger job than you hoped for. Before making your plan for the bulkhead, you need to investigate the mast step area. It's a traditional problem spot on these boats and you're likely to find rot there. If I remember correctly, the deck stepped mast on these boats do not have a post under it but instead a beam across the boat under the mast. This obviously has to be strong - as does the chain plate attachments (the shiny stainless things). A sailboat mast and rigging is like a bow and arrow. The mast pushes down. The shrouds pull up. And the sides of the boat are squeezed together. Why don't you send some pictures.

 

[jssailem]

Welcome Paul to the forum.
No matter the boat design or the size repair/replacing of a bulkhead is a major task. Pictures of the problem will help the boaters here to share their suggestions.

In general terms you need to identify the issues before buying the wood. Such issues include:

1. Where did the water come from that damaged the bulk head.
2. How did the water get in
3. What other damage was done by the water
4. Were the chainplates involved
5. Were the chainplates damaged
6. Bulkheads hold the hull in its proper shape, has there been hull damage

These are just a few of the broad stroke thoughts that surface when I see bulkhead damage.

I would start by taking pictures of the damaged area. Be sure to keep the zoom wide as we are looking for possible cause, you already know the affect - that’s the visible bulkhead damage. Include images of the area of the boat on the outside near the area of interior damage.

Good luck Paul.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

I replaced one a couple of years ago. It took a while but it was much easier than expected. I was surprised at how much inaccuracy I could get away with. A miter saw, drill and grinder were the only woodworking tools that were required. We also used a sawzall to cut the bulkhead away from the hull. Overall, a time consuming but easy project

 

[POK]

Thanks everyone for the response. I have attached a photo. You can see the rotten plywood behind the chainplate and allow the bottom where the plywood meets the small counter top.
I do need to determine the source of the water. I believe it is when the shroud connects above on the roof. More investigation to be done. The wood below the counter looks in good shape so am hoping I only need to replace a portion on the wood and then reinforce it.

Good call on checking the mast step. I will take an extra close look at that. You are correct that it does not have a post under the mast step in the cabin.

Project Mayhem: you give me hope that we can get this project done. It will jsut take some time and patience.

Paul

 

[jssailem]

Great start.
The picture posted is of the Backing plate not the chain plate. The chain plate would be on the opposite side of the bulkhead and reach up through the deck to the shrouds above.

You will need to inspect the chain plate for corrosion pitting. I would suspect the moisture has been entering the boat on the opposite side of the bulkhead. What you are seeing is the moisture soaking through the bulkhead.

Note when doing your build, you will need to match the new parts to the old part design. The chainplate, in order to align with the shrouds going through the deck need to be on the bow side of the bulkhead. The backing plate appears to be facing the stern of your boat.

 

[SailingLoto]

it appears to be a slide in bulkhead. drop you mast or run a halyard to that side so you can unhook the shroud. unscrew it, slide it out, cut a new one and slide it in....

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Different shape, but same concept as my O'Day. You may have to thin the new wood at the edge to get it to slide in

 

[CarlN]

When you take out the rotted plywood piece, remove it all the way to the hull. Then fiberglass the new plywood to the hull by folding 3" wide strips of fiberglass 90 degrees and laying it along the plywood and the hull on both sides. Try to do this at least 2ft along the hull. It may mean removing some interior woodwork but it's worth it. This is called "tabbing". Use at least two layers. This will transfer the pull on the chainplate to the hull.