Here's how we raise our mast
I have a C22. I purchased an inexpensive block and tackle from Harbor freight tools for about $15. You could get one just about anywhere. The most important item you'll need is a crutch to support the weight of the mast at the transom, and keep the angle of the mast such that it puts absolutely NO strain on the mast step. My crutch is made out of a piece of 2X4 with a Y at the top, and I put two old pintles on the board to fit into the rudder gudgeons. I then tie the board to the stern rail for added stability.Support the mast in the crutch, and then loosely connect the base to the mast step, Make your electrical and antenna connections now if they're internal to the mast. Make sure that your standin rigging is not tangled, and connect the back stay, the rear lower shrouds, and the upper shrouds. I would suggest backing off a few turns on the turnbuckles. Next step is to set the jib or spinnaker so that the lower end is just about even with the bottom of the mast, then securely cleat the halyard to the mast. I then attach the block & tackle to the deck ey on the bow. I attach the other end of the block & tackle to the halyard. With one person lifting the mast, and another pulling in the line on the block & tackle, slowly raise the mast to vertical. It is important to work as a team and not have one person get ahead of the other. The person at the mast has the important task of not letting the mast sway from side to side or you'll tear out the mast step. Once the mast is raised to vertical, keep tension on the block & tackle while the forward lower shrouds are connected. Now it is safe to detach the block & tackle and attach the fore stay. If it possible, park the trailer with the bow facing forward on a downslope to allow gravity to assist with keeping the mast vertical while attaching the forward rigging. To adjust the mast for plumb I use my jib halyard. I always leave a slight rake to the rear to allow better pointing. Once the fore and rear stays are set you can work on setting the mast plumb. Cleat the jib stay off, then take the jib halyard to one of the chainplates for the upper shrouds. Temporarily mark or bend and hold the halyard to measure the base of the chainplate. Hold that mark and carefully take the halyard to the opposite chain plate and measure there. If you are not equal, the adjust the turnbuckles to bring the mast even. Once the mast is even then take your tension gage and fine tune the rigging to bring it fairly taut. Loose rigging can lead to failure while sailing because th mast will swing from side to side and cause a very heavy shock load on the cables when you change tacks. Immagine holding a piece of string inyour hands, allowing it to droop slack, the jerkinging the string tight. A firm, steady pressure is less strain on the rigging because you won't have that snapping action.This winter, I fabricated an A frame out of two 6 ft. pieces of 1 inch steel electrical conduit and quick links to attach to the forward lower chainplates, the attach the jib halward and block & tackle to prevent the side sway. I have yet to use it, so I'll let you mates know haw it works next spring.Merry Christmas to All, and to All, a Happy New Year!