Raised grain on teak

[Justin_NSA]

The bulkhead alongside the companionway needs some attention. The teak, either from getting wet or UV or both is slightly raised. Not grey, but lightened some. Is there a right way to lightly smooth the raised grain and then re-oil? I don't think it has varnish. I've used fine steel wool on cabinet work. Is this okay?

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Steel wool isn't a good idea as the abrasion leave small fragments which can rust. Bronze wool is your friend. Or use fine sandpaper.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Thanks Don. How fine is fine?

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

Steel wool isn't a good idea as the abrasion leave small fragments which can rust. Bronze wool is your friend. Or use fine sandpaper.

Youre asking the wrong guy. I use whatever I have on hand and end up smoothing with something like 200 grit or finer or one of those synthetic pads. My limited experience is that it doesn't make much difference unless you are a perfectionist.

My personal preference is to not strive for perfection as the result can appear like the cheap plastic wood common on contemporary boats.

 

[Stu Jackson]

How fine is fine?

Buy a package of different grit sandpaper at your local hardware store. Start off with the finest, and work your way through them.

 

[Justin_NSA]

I'll try that in an inconspicuous spot. Thanks.

 

[Don Crowther]

why would you start off with the finest? Shouldn't you finish with tthe finest?

 

[Stu Jackson]

why would you start off with the finest? Shouldn't you finish with tthe finest?

Because he doesn't know anything about sandpaper, yet. And how it will affect the wood. If he starts with the most abrasive and gouges the wood, that wouldn't be good, would it? And yes, he could finish with the finest.

 

[jssailem]

Justin
There are many "RULES FOR SANDING TEAK". And any question regarding the subject will evoke these perils of wisdom from the many. My experience is less is more. As Stu suggests start fine and see what you learn.
Here is one persons idea ( http://commutercruiser.com/teak-week-day-4-sanding-wetsanding/ ). It appears to give you a fairly broad set of their experience. I shared the part about sanding as that is your questions, but you can scan the other pages on their site for other ideas.

I used the varnish approach on my small boat. I preferred a natural look so I cleaned the wood, lightly sanded the teak with fine grit, cleaned the wood with a tack cloth and applied varnish with a rag. Sanded the varnish when dry and applied a second/third/fourth coat. Got the look I desired and left it for the season. Came the next spring I began again. After a couple of spring sessions it got easier and less work. Still varnish has a limited life span.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Thanks guys. Yes, starting with fine sandpaper reduces the risk of going too deep. I'd rather sneak up on the problem.
Thanks for the link John.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

I would start with 80 or 120 and go no further than 240 (probably 180). It's not fine furniture

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

I would start with 80 or 120 and go no further than 240 (probably 180). It's not fine furniture

As a furniture refinisher for years, and also a long time boat builder, I RARELY even had 80 grit in my shop. My start grit would be 150, and finish with 220 if smoother was needed.

 

[Don Crowther]

Because he doesn't know anything about sandpaper, yet. And how it will affect the wood. If he starts with the most abrasive and gouges the wood, that wouldn't be good, would it? And yes, he could finish with the finest.

Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[DougM]

why not start with a furniture scraper (round off the corners so that it doesn't accidentally dig in) to take off part of the raised hard grain. Then block sand with 80 grit. Follow that with 120. no real need to go any finer in my opinion. Personally, I'm not crazy about using an orbital sander, but it would probably speed up the job.
If you plan to varnish, start out with it 50 percent thinned, then 25 percent, and finally full strength. Scuff between coats with a maroon scotchbrite pad. If the surface is exposed to weather, final coat with semigloss as it will provide some UV protection.

 

[LeslieTroyer]

I do as little sanding as possible when working with wood at home. I prefer using a cabinet scraper where ever possible. I agree most projects I do there also start with much finer paper. If I started with something as rough as weather teak with obvious raised grain area - it would go thru the planer and skim off the raised areas. You cant do that on a boat - additionally the pads on most consumer grade sanders are very soft - so all fine paper will do is accentuate the raised grain and cause folks to press harder on the sander wearing out the paper and the sander faster, and creating a gouged uneven surface.. I have three different pads for my RO sander so I can alter the pad to suit the job. If I want really flat for long expanses (think hand rails) - I would probably bring out an air driven long board.

I just finished refinishing my back deck at home - the only paper I used was 80grit anything lighter I'd have been there forever and not had as good of job. I didn't remove very much material at all ~ 1/64". For the deck I was sanding Ipe (Ironwood) which is a tad harder than teak. It was extremely smooth with no obvious scratches.

If you teak in in good shape and you are just touching up for re-varnish starting with 120 or 180 makes perfect sense. But here it sounded like weathered and ridged teak - which takes a more aggressive paper.

 

[Justin_NSA]

Sounds like starting with 150-180 might be best. The teak is not "weathered" as much as just not smooth. I think the paper will level it out. I don't think there's varnish but it is faded more than the wood down below. Not grey, more like yellow.