I am installing a Raymarine Radar Antenna. Anyone know how to wire the 12V connection at the circuit breaker panel? I do not have a spare circuit breaker?
Radar Install
- Thread starter SEMPERAVANTI41
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With the VHF radio as long as there is no autopilot on the circuit. current Generation VHF radios draw very little current.
waternwaves: You are correct, a VHF draws little current as long as it is off or on receive only. As soon as you transmit, not true! I would suggest combining 2 low draw units on one circuit and free up one for the radar. #2 leave everything alone and add another ckt breaker for the radar. Chief
If it is on a 15A breaker, not a problem
the raymarine radar only draws 5 amps for the dome on transmit (60 watts)
the ICOM 502 and its friends draws 5.5 A
The duration of the VHF transmit is also short. and
a 15 A ,12VDC amp circuit is sufficient for both.
the raymarine radar only draws 5 amps for the dome on transmit (60 watts)
the ICOM 502 and its friends draws 5.5 A
The duration of the VHF transmit is also short. and
a 15 A ,12VDC amp circuit is sufficient for both.
If radar or VHF malfunctions then you may lose both of them all at once! I stand behind my advice. Chief, EE,FCC lic#1890(radar,comm.)
Do you really intend that as a question or statement?
My visceral reaction is that you do have room on the panel for a dedicated breaker but that it was not installed at commissioning. If true, the best option is to put one in.
Alternatively, you can do as waterwaves suggests with no problems.
Also an EE and ME, with that configuration running now. with no tripping. with Ferrite chokes on both power leads. Also agree separate breaker is best.
yes. and very careful on equipment selection. The previous radar breaker has been replaced for the autopilot.
3 sets of modifications in the port lazarette & aft belowdeck locker.
Fuel tank removal and cleaning, for installation of the pivoting swim platform fiberglass mounts, autopilot mechanicals install, and relocation of the aft anchor storage rack and Espar Heater. And hopefully nothing with the rudder.
3 sets of modifications in the port lazarette & aft belowdeck locker.
Fuel tank removal and cleaning, for installation of the pivoting swim platform fiberglass mounts, autopilot mechanicals install, and relocation of the aft anchor storage rack and Espar Heater. And hopefully nothing with the rudder.
That is the good thing about this forum, you will usually get more than one opinion and then you can choose the one that may appeal to you the most.
Keep in mind that these domes draw power in STBY, usually 20-25W for a 418, even without TXing. This occurs the moment 12V is applied to the power cable.
This is why a separate breaker, or at least a switch, is the best solution as you don't really want that load drawing unless you intend on using the dome. I see far too many installations done where 1 breaker kicks on both the plotter and the dome.
Isolate the dome on its own breaker or switch and save yourself 1.6A - 2.0A of parasitic load when you don't need nor want it... Perhaps a sub panel for the electronics...??
IIRC that boat usually has at least 18 DC breakers. If that is the case you should be able to easily consolidate some other items and relabel the breaker or just add another switch... Even a simple pull toggle switch takes but one drilled hole and about 5 minutes to install.......
This is why a separate breaker, or at least a switch, is the best solution as you don't really want that load drawing unless you intend on using the dome. I see far too many installations done where 1 breaker kicks on both the plotter and the dome.
Isolate the dome on its own breaker or switch and save yourself 1.6A - 2.0A of parasitic load when you don't need nor want it... Perhaps a sub panel for the electronics...??
IIRC that boat usually has at least 18 DC breakers. If that is the case you should be able to easily consolidate some other items and relabel the breaker or just add another switch... Even a simple pull toggle switch takes but one drilled hole and about 5 minutes to install.......
AS Maine points out
many users have the same breaker for the plotter and the radome. With Raymarine, this is only necessary when you use certain models of the open arrays (generally the higher power units not the smaller domes see your specific manual). the Ray manuals specify the common power source to protect the equipment. The lower power domes are generally connected direct to the plotter/power for the smaller C and E series but can have separate feeds according to the C and E series manuals
many users have the same breaker for the plotter and the radome. With Raymarine, this is only necessary when you use certain models of the open arrays (generally the higher power units not the smaller domes see your specific manual). the Ray manuals specify the common power source to protect the equipment. The lower power domes are generally connected direct to the plotter/power for the smaller C and E series but can have separate feeds according to the C and E series manuals
did someone miss the day in school when the teacher taught everyone to operate an on/off switch?
Sadly many of these newer domes, which should have a separate power switch, don't. When they don't have an additional switch, for the radome, then the only choice is that the radome is always on whenever the plotter etc. is and thus you are adding unnecessary loads on the system when you don't need to.
The garden hose cable radomes are now long gone. New radomes from Garmin, Ray, Navico etc. have a data cable and a power cable. In the old days you had no choice of a separate breaker but when you shut down the radar portion via the display it turned off the dome and did not just put it in STBY. Today when you apply 12V the dome is automatically drawing current whether you are using it or not.
Thanks all for your input. It didn't make a lot of sense to me that per Raymarines' instructions the power to radome would always be on. I plan to wire it to a separate breaker so I can power it when needed.