I have a Yanmar 3GM30 which has the inline Racor water seperator. It's the solid not clear one, so I can't see if there is water in the collection bowl. How difficult is it to drain the filter? How do I do it, and is there any special procedure needed after I drain it? Thanks in advance.
Racor water seperator
- Thread starter aquaholic1
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EASY FILTER CHANGE
I HAVE THE SAME GOLD METAL RACOR, GET THE REPLACEMENT FILTER R11S I BELIEVE, SPIN OFF THE OLD FILTER AND REMOVE IT SOME FUEL WILL SPILL OUT, REMOVE OLD FILTER AND CLEAN THE BOWL, INSTALL NEW FILTER AND NEW O-RING (COMES WITH FILTER), FILL THE BOWL WITH NEW FUEL TO THE TOP, SPIN IT BACK ON, BLEED THE LINE AT THE LIFT PUMP, SELOC SELLS A COMPLETE 3GM REPAIR BOOK THAT IS WELL ISSUSTRATED AND TAKES YOU THROUGH STEP BY STEP, MAY NEED TO BLEED IT AT THE INJECTOR PUMP ALSO, BECOME FAMILIAR WITH HOW TO BLEED THOSE LINES AND ITS A SNAP
I HAVE THE SAME GOLD METAL RACOR, GET THE REPLACEMENT FILTER R11S I BELIEVE, SPIN OFF THE OLD FILTER AND REMOVE IT SOME FUEL WILL SPILL OUT, REMOVE OLD FILTER AND CLEAN THE BOWL, INSTALL NEW FILTER AND NEW O-RING (COMES WITH FILTER), FILL THE BOWL WITH NEW FUEL TO THE TOP, SPIN IT BACK ON, BLEED THE LINE AT THE LIFT PUMP, SELOC SELLS A COMPLETE 3GM REPAIR BOOK THAT IS WELL ISSUSTRATED AND TAKES YOU THROUGH STEP BY STEP, MAY NEED TO BLEED IT AT THE INJECTOR PUMP ALSO, BECOME FAMILIAR WITH HOW TO BLEED THOSE LINES AND ITS A SNAP
Draining and replacing are different tasks
They are 2 distinctly different tasks. Draining is the removal of water that has been separated from the fuel, from the bowl. You do that by loosening part way the screw on the bottom of the bowl, then you unscrew the recessed screw on the top of the bowl. This top screw is often made of plastic. Let it drain into a cup and look at the content. Water will drain out before the diesel. If the cup contains water, keep draining. If the cup contains both water and diesel, you can stop draining. Tighten both screws, and start up the engine to refill the bowl. Be careful with the plastic screw, don't over tighten, since it may break off easily. I try to drain the bowl every month or so. Depending on how much water you may accumulate in the fuel tank, and the quality of your fuel. Keeping the fuel tank topped off will help eliminate condensation, thus less water. This task is sometimes messy, so I save up large empty soup cans for this job. As for replacing the filter, it is pretty straight forward. Replace it when the filter gets dirty, saturated, and it could be a bit slimy too. I do that about once a year.
They are 2 distinctly different tasks. Draining is the removal of water that has been separated from the fuel, from the bowl. You do that by loosening part way the screw on the bottom of the bowl, then you unscrew the recessed screw on the top of the bowl. This top screw is often made of plastic. Let it drain into a cup and look at the content. Water will drain out before the diesel. If the cup contains water, keep draining. If the cup contains both water and diesel, you can stop draining. Tighten both screws, and start up the engine to refill the bowl. Be careful with the plastic screw, don't over tighten, since it may break off easily. I try to drain the bowl every month or so. Depending on how much water you may accumulate in the fuel tank, and the quality of your fuel. Keeping the fuel tank topped off will help eliminate condensation, thus less water. This task is sometimes messy, so I save up large empty soup cans for this job. As for replacing the filter, it is pretty straight forward. Replace it when the filter gets dirty, saturated, and it could be a bit slimy too. I do that about once a year.
JC
Do you usually have to bleed the fuel lines after you drain off some water/fuel without replacing the filter? Thanks, Jay
Do you usually have to bleed the fuel lines after you drain off some water/fuel without replacing the filter? Thanks, Jay
Step by step filter change
To change the primary and secondary filters on the 3GM30F with a Racor 110 primary filter. a. Run engine to warm it up so it will start easily. Put about 1 Pt of fresh diesel fuel in a clean plastic soda bottle. b. Close fuel flow valve at fuel tank. c. Place Pampers or other absorbent pads under the primary Racor filter and plug any bilge limber holes with paper towels to keep diesel fuel out of bilge. d. Remove primary filter using a small diameter oil filter wrench or unscrew the large nut on the top of the filter. Pour the dirty fuel into a glass jar and inspect for water. Rinse and clean the filter bowl. e. Remove and replace the top sealing gasket. You may have to dig it out with a pick but be careful not to scratch the surfaces and check that the new gasket is not twisted. Check with mirror if necessary. f. Replace filter element. There is a small O-ring that goes on bottom of 110 filter element, then the element slides down the shaft into filter bowl and snaps into place. g. Add some fresh fuel to fill the bowl and screw bowl into holder. Tighten with wrench. h. Open fuel flow valve at fuel tank. i. If your fuel tank is higher than the filter, you can open the vent screw (small, off center)on top of filter body and let air and fuel bleed out. It is a 10mm vent nut that has a small O-ring. j. Close fuel flow valve at fuel tank. k. Pack Pampers below secondary filter on the engine. l. Remove engine filter bowl by tapping the ring with a screw driver and pull the element down. Clean the bowl. m. Change filter element and O-ring. Push element up into holder before raising the bowl. n. Fill filter bowl half full with fresh diesel. o. Install and tighten filter bowl ring. p. Open fuel flow valve at fuel tank. q. Open bleed screw on top of secondary filter. On the 3GM30 there is not enough space to use a screw driver. It takes a 10mm open-end wrench. Pump fuel pump with manual lever to eject lots of bubbles and continue until fuel is clear. This may take a while because you must bleed any and all of the air from both the primary and secondary filters. r. Use a 10mm socket on a short extension to open the bleed screw on the top of the injector pump. I found that the best access is from the side of the engine and from behind the pump. s. Pump lots of bubbles and fuel using the fuel pump manual lever. Close bleed screw. t. Open fuel flow valve at tank. u. Pump up pressure in the system with the fuel pump lever. v. Start engine and run at high RPM (2,000). w. Clean up the mess and dispose of all materials properly.
To change the primary and secondary filters on the 3GM30F with a Racor 110 primary filter. a. Run engine to warm it up so it will start easily. Put about 1 Pt of fresh diesel fuel in a clean plastic soda bottle. b. Close fuel flow valve at fuel tank. c. Place Pampers or other absorbent pads under the primary Racor filter and plug any bilge limber holes with paper towels to keep diesel fuel out of bilge. d. Remove primary filter using a small diameter oil filter wrench or unscrew the large nut on the top of the filter. Pour the dirty fuel into a glass jar and inspect for water. Rinse and clean the filter bowl. e. Remove and replace the top sealing gasket. You may have to dig it out with a pick but be careful not to scratch the surfaces and check that the new gasket is not twisted. Check with mirror if necessary. f. Replace filter element. There is a small O-ring that goes on bottom of 110 filter element, then the element slides down the shaft into filter bowl and snaps into place. g. Add some fresh fuel to fill the bowl and screw bowl into holder. Tighten with wrench. h. Open fuel flow valve at fuel tank. i. If your fuel tank is higher than the filter, you can open the vent screw (small, off center)on top of filter body and let air and fuel bleed out. It is a 10mm vent nut that has a small O-ring. j. Close fuel flow valve at fuel tank. k. Pack Pampers below secondary filter on the engine. l. Remove engine filter bowl by tapping the ring with a screw driver and pull the element down. Clean the bowl. m. Change filter element and O-ring. Push element up into holder before raising the bowl. n. Fill filter bowl half full with fresh diesel. o. Install and tighten filter bowl ring. p. Open fuel flow valve at fuel tank. q. Open bleed screw on top of secondary filter. On the 3GM30 there is not enough space to use a screw driver. It takes a 10mm open-end wrench. Pump fuel pump with manual lever to eject lots of bubbles and continue until fuel is clear. This may take a while because you must bleed any and all of the air from both the primary and secondary filters. r. Use a 10mm socket on a short extension to open the bleed screw on the top of the injector pump. I found that the best access is from the side of the engine and from behind the pump. s. Pump lots of bubbles and fuel using the fuel pump manual lever. Close bleed screw. t. Open fuel flow valve at tank. u. Pump up pressure in the system with the fuel pump lever. v. Start engine and run at high RPM (2,000). w. Clean up the mess and dispose of all materials properly.
Fuel Squeeze Bulb
A friend of mine told me an easy way to bleed/purge the air out of my fuel lines in the matter of seconds not minutes. No pumping on that fuel pump lever, no cranking, no opening of injectors. Place a outboard fuel squeeze bulb inline between the tank shut-off and before the 1st filter. Now give it a few squeezes... That's it! you can either leave it inline or take it out. It works great! Cheers -R
A friend of mine told me an easy way to bleed/purge the air out of my fuel lines in the matter of seconds not minutes. No pumping on that fuel pump lever, no cranking, no opening of injectors. Place a outboard fuel squeeze bulb inline between the tank shut-off and before the 1st filter. Now give it a few squeezes... That's it! you can either leave it inline or take it out. It works great! Cheers -R
I use the fuel squeeze bulb also makes it
very easy when changing the filter. No need to bleed when just changing the racor and no need to prefill the racor bowl either. Jay to answer your question, No need to bleed the fuel lines,engine when just draining the water/diesel from the bottom of the racor.
very easy when changing the filter. No need to bleed when just changing the racor and no need to prefill the racor bowl either. Jay to answer your question, No need to bleed the fuel lines,engine when just draining the water/diesel from the bottom of the racor.
Fuel bulb
Just keep in mind that the fuel bulb is one more place for an air leak into the system. Actually three more, the two fittings and the bulb itself. Every one has seen bulbs that get all cracked and loose shape. They can leak or close in on themselves cutting off the fuel supply from your tank. If you use one change it every several years. Vinny
Just keep in mind that the fuel bulb is one more place for an air leak into the system. Actually three more, the two fittings and the bulb itself. Every one has seen bulbs that get all cracked and loose shape. They can leak or close in on themselves cutting off the fuel supply from your tank. If you use one change it every several years. Vinny
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