Looking for tips on replacing the Racor filter. The current cartridge is model number R-15P. 30 micron unit. This model is not readily available.Are there other models that I can substitute? And any help on the actual steps in replacing this would be much appreciated. John TIC TAC III
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You could use a R15T (10 micron) or a R15S (2 micron)
Though they will clog faster if you have dirty fuel and not be what you have designed in for your system, but they will work. I might be wrong on this but I am pretty sure you could always order the R20 series or the R25 series. I believe they work on the same Racor spin on base unit, its just that they are longer/deeper. So if space permits (below the filter) you can use these longer filters . The R20 series is 3/4" longer and the R25 series is 2 1/4" longer than the R15 filters. The upside is that these bigger filters can handle more "gunk" from your filter before clogging and afecting your engine than your R15 filters If you google Racor Spin On Filters you should be able to order any one of these filters as needed.
Though they will clog faster if you have dirty fuel and not be what you have designed in for your system, but they will work. I might be wrong on this but I am pretty sure you could always order the R20 series or the R25 series. I believe they work on the same Racor spin on base unit, its just that they are longer/deeper. So if space permits (below the filter) you can use these longer filters . The R20 series is 3/4" longer and the R25 series is 2 1/4" longer than the R15 filters. The upside is that these bigger filters can handle more "gunk" from your filter before clogging and afecting your engine than your R15 filters If you google Racor Spin On Filters you should be able to order any one of these filters as needed.
a non-expert opinion
This is just hearsay but I once heard a mechanic say that you do not want to put a finer filter in place of the one that your engine was designed for or additional filters in line with exsting because it increases resistance to fuel flow. Don't know if that is true or not but I would first try to find a 30 micron unit to replace the existing or stay as close as possible to 30 microns.
This is just hearsay but I once heard a mechanic say that you do not want to put a finer filter in place of the one that your engine was designed for or additional filters in line with exsting because it increases resistance to fuel flow. Don't know if that is true or not but I would first try to find a 30 micron unit to replace the existing or stay as close as possible to 30 microns.
Bob V. You are basically correct
I have always heard that a "proper" fuel filter system should have increasingly finer filters so that the bigger particles of "crud" get caught before they reach your primary (engine) filter. Most engine filters are somewhere around 2 microns, so that means that if you put a 2 micron Racor filter very little if any gets passed through. It also means that it will clog up quicker than say a 10 or 30 micron filter. If you had dirty fuel it you could go a lot longer on a 30 micron Racor than a 2 Micron. Maybe enough to get you back into port before they clog so much start starving the engine. When new both a 2 micron and a 30 micron racor filter of the same physical size should have the same fuel flow rate vs resistance (vacuum)
I have always heard that a "proper" fuel filter system should have increasingly finer filters so that the bigger particles of "crud" get caught before they reach your primary (engine) filter. Most engine filters are somewhere around 2 microns, so that means that if you put a 2 micron Racor filter very little if any gets passed through. It also means that it will clog up quicker than say a 10 or 30 micron filter. If you had dirty fuel it you could go a lot longer on a 30 micron Racor than a 2 Micron. Maybe enough to get you back into port before they clog so much start starving the engine. When new both a 2 micron and a 30 micron racor filter of the same physical size should have the same fuel flow rate vs resistance (vacuum)
Remember to close the fuel shut-off...
John, I've never had any problem getting the R15P. I bought my last one from marinedieseldirect.com. I believe the manual for you engine has instructions on changing the filters. If you have the manual you may want to refer to it. Close the fuel shut-off valve on top of the tank because otherwise fuel will continue to flow out of the filter housing after you unscrew the filter. Have some rags on hand and a bowl to put the old filter in after you remove it. If your filter is mounted under the afterbirth, as mine is, it will be almost impossible to remove without spilling a little fuel. The best thing I've found is to pull a small plastic bag around the filter from underneath. That way most of the fuel will be contained in that bag as you remove the filter. After installing the new filter be sure to prime it with the little finger pump on top of the housing. It is the small round knob that you unscrew with your fingers and them pump until the filter fills with fuel. Remember to screw the pump back down when finish. This is a good time to replace the fuel filter on the engine too. Don't forget to open the fuel shut-off valve, and then you'll be ready to go.
John, I've never had any problem getting the R15P. I bought my last one from marinedieseldirect.com. I believe the manual for you engine has instructions on changing the filters. If you have the manual you may want to refer to it. Close the fuel shut-off valve on top of the tank because otherwise fuel will continue to flow out of the filter housing after you unscrew the filter. Have some rags on hand and a bowl to put the old filter in after you remove it. If your filter is mounted under the afterbirth, as mine is, it will be almost impossible to remove without spilling a little fuel. The best thing I've found is to pull a small plastic bag around the filter from underneath. That way most of the fuel will be contained in that bag as you remove the filter. After installing the new filter be sure to prime it with the little finger pump on top of the housing. It is the small round knob that you unscrew with your fingers and them pump until the filter fills with fuel. Remember to screw the pump back down when finish. This is a good time to replace the fuel filter on the engine too. Don't forget to open the fuel shut-off valve, and then you'll be ready to go.
10 Micron - R15T
I can not confirm it now, but I am certain that I installed a 10 micron filter during my last change on the racor. I was doing this under the tutelage of a diesel mechanic. He suggested that I use a clean white or clear dish to trap the diesel escaping during the primary and secondary filter changes. This allows you to inspect closely for debris. If you use a larger glass jar, you can swirl the fuel which causes a vortex in the middle of the jar drawing any debris to the centre bottom of the jar. Be careful not to splash yourself or your boat (we do this when refueling helicopters, etc). Regards Chris
I can not confirm it now, but I am certain that I installed a 10 micron filter during my last change on the racor. I was doing this under the tutelage of a diesel mechanic. He suggested that I use a clean white or clear dish to trap the diesel escaping during the primary and secondary filter changes. This allows you to inspect closely for debris. If you use a larger glass jar, you can swirl the fuel which causes a vortex in the middle of the jar drawing any debris to the centre bottom of the jar. Be careful not to splash yourself or your boat (we do this when refueling helicopters, etc). Regards Chris
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