Racor 120a drain proceedure
- Thread starter healeyman
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Engine should be off.
Find your filter here and download the manual for it.
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...0048021dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=default&vgnextfmt=EN
Find your filter here and download the manual for it.
http://www.parker.com/portal/site/P...0048021dacRCRD&vgnextfmt=default&vgnextfmt=EN
Off
For sure engine off and fuel tank shut off valve off also and than open drain plug and let drain and replace rrdrain plug and open tank valve and let filter full up with fuel.
Nick
For sure engine off and fuel tank shut off valve off also and than open drain plug and let drain and replace rrdrain plug and open tank valve and let filter full up with fuel.
Nick
My pickup is at the top of the fuel tank.... the engine must be running so that the fuel pump can pull the fuel toward the fuel filter. If I drain with engine off, wiould not that allow an air pocket to be introduced in the the fuel system?
Dave,
The best solution for me was to buy a squeeze bulb and insert it right before my 120a filter. This way I can crack open the drain on the bottom of the filter/separator and just lightly squeeze the bulb which draws fresh fuel from the tank and displaces the water into a container. I also moved my primary filter right up to the top front of the engine compartment so I can reach it while standing up and get a container (usually a water bottle) under it with a short length of hose. The mess is minimized and problems can be dealt with easily.
Earlier this year I had a load of water in my fuel tank. The engine quit because both the primary and secondary filters were full of water. The bulb was a lifesaver. I used it to squeeze out over a quart of water from the tank. When I was done and all the filters were replaced I opened one bleed screw on the engine and used that bulb to bleed the entire system. Also for convienence, I put a second little shut off valve right at the filter so I don't have to climb into the lazarette to shut off the fuel at the tank to prevent siphoning if I am doing something with the system open. In my case I changed all the fuel lines to 5/16". I think originally they were 1/4". Either way they sell the bulbs in both sizes.
Allan
The best solution for me was to buy a squeeze bulb and insert it right before my 120a filter. This way I can crack open the drain on the bottom of the filter/separator and just lightly squeeze the bulb which draws fresh fuel from the tank and displaces the water into a container. I also moved my primary filter right up to the top front of the engine compartment so I can reach it while standing up and get a container (usually a water bottle) under it with a short length of hose. The mess is minimized and problems can be dealt with easily.
Earlier this year I had a load of water in my fuel tank. The engine quit because both the primary and secondary filters were full of water. The bulb was a lifesaver. I used it to squeeze out over a quart of water from the tank. When I was done and all the filters were replaced I opened one bleed screw on the engine and used that bulb to bleed the entire system. Also for convienence, I put a second little shut off valve right at the filter so I don't have to climb into the lazarette to shut off the fuel at the tank to prevent siphoning if I am doing something with the system open. In my case I changed all the fuel lines to 5/16". I think originally they were 1/4". Either way they sell the bulbs in both sizes.
Allan
Allan, Thanks for the reply: moving the racor 120a to the engine compartment is something I have considered ... Your squeeze bulb idea makes sense...i do not know if I have a fuel tank shut off valve.... I replaced my fuel fuller hose and did not see a shut off valve... adding one that i can get to is a good idea...
How do you enter the fuel system with your squeeze bulb without allowing air to enter? I would appreciate a bit more detail , a picture would be helpful if it would be convenient.
Fortunately I have very little amount of water in the separator bowl.... but I want to get the procedure down when I do have to drain the water.
Again, much thanks for your advise...
Thanks, Dave
How do you enter the fuel system with your squeeze bulb without allowing air to enter? I would appreciate a bit more detail , a picture would be helpful if it would be convenient.
Fortunately I have very little amount of water in the separator bowl.... but I want to get the procedure down when I do have to drain the water.
Again, much thanks for your advise...
Thanks, Dave
Dave,
I looked for a picture and apparently don't have one of that area. I'll be at the boat this weekend so I can take one then.
The installation of the bulb is quite straight forward. I just cut the rubber hose about 6 inches back from the filter. The bulb has hose barbs on each side that push into the two ends of the hose. Use hose clamps to secure it. You will have probably introduced air into the system at that point. Crack open that little bleed screw on the front of the filter (not the big one on top) and squeeze the air out. Close the bleed screw and you are good to go. When the engine runs the fuel just passes right through the bulb. When you need to remove the water, open the drain just a little and squeeze the bulb. If it gets too firm just open the drain a little more. Don't over squeeze as it builds considerable pressure. The bulb has internal check valves and will suck fuel from the tank when it reinflates after squeezing. No air ends up in the system and it is good to remove those typical small amounts of water you see in the bowl.
Allan
Dave,
The hose barb in the attached picture should already be installed on your filter and at the fuel tank. It is a 1/4" pipe thread to (in my case) 5/16" hose. The hose end comes in different sizes as required. I suspect yours is 1/4" hose. The priming bulb is installed by leaving the fuel line attached to the filter and cutting the hose about 6 inches away. You can see the bulb has integral barbs on it.
Turns out we are going to the boat this morning, so I will take a picture of my setup.
Allan
The hose barb in the attached picture should already be installed on your filter and at the fuel tank. It is a 1/4" pipe thread to (in my case) 5/16" hose. The hose end comes in different sizes as required. I suspect yours is 1/4" hose. The priming bulb is installed by leaving the fuel line attached to the filter and cutting the hose about 6 inches away. You can see the bulb has integral barbs on it.
Turns out we are going to the boat this morning, so I will take a picture of my setup.
Allan
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Ok, I got it... much thanks.... just did not 'see' the priming bulb.... Much thanks again...dave
Here is where I located my Racor filter and the priming bulb in my engine compartment. It is very easy to access, especially underway. Note the added shut off valve that helps keep the fuel line primed when the filter is pulled. It just means I can bleed the system a bit faster. Too bad the raw water seacock isn't closer. Usually the back berth is full of junk so I have to stretch over a hot engine to close and open it. I also added a vacuum gauge off the spare port on the filter head.
My sea strainer is right below the Racor (also easy to get to).
My sea strainer is right below the Racor (also easy to get to).
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