Question about through hull fitting

Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
I made some modifications to my boat that leaves me with a through hull fitting that I am a bit concerned with. My boat is one of the very early 1972 models that had the sink forward of the starboard bulkhead. It was just about useless and I would much rather have the storage space so I took it out. I was also having trouble getting through the bulkhead opening which for me was dangerously narrow. After removing the sink I removed part of the bulkhead which serves no purpose other then it was supposed to provide some privacy from the head. I realize that the bulkhead is used to support the chain plates but the part I removed has nothing to do with the support structurally. I did not want to make any modifications to the compression post for obvious reasons. This modification leaves me with a through hull for the sink drain. I really don't want to disturb the through hull since it seals very well and I don't want to get involved in fiber glassing over the hole but I'm not sure how to secure it. Would you leave it there and just put a wood plug in the tubing with a hose clamp? Could it be used for a sump pump outlet? By the way if anyone needs a sink and hand pump they are welcome to mine. Just let me know. Thanks very much for any replies.
 

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Sep 25, 2008
7,595
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
The thruhull can be removed and glassed in less time than most of the alternatives and would provide far greater peace of mind and integrity as well. Why create a potential problem?
 
Feb 8, 2014
1,300
Columbia 36 Muskegon
Don't use it for a bilge pump, that would siphon water into the boat. Bilge pump outlets need to be above the water line. Can't see in the picture on my phone, is there a sea cock or valve on the through hull? If there is, you could just screw in a pipe plug. If not, you'll have to seal up the hole.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
do you keep the boat in the water or on a trailer?.... either way, it needs to be different than what it is now. but on the trailer it will be an easy fix.

dont keep it for a pump out fitting, as a pump will lift the liquid to a thruhull fitting above the waterline which is a much safer option.

if it was my boat, and I had no use for a hole in it, I would remove the fitting and fill the hole.
you can always drill another hole if you want one sometime in the future:D

on that boat, you can fill the hole relatively easy, as it doesnt take a lot of pounding and beating in huge seas.

and this is the way I would do it, as i have done in the past many times... others will have other techniques that may work equally well, or better, depending on how much work you want to put into it....

after removing the fitting, sand the hole to insure its clean, and there is no forgotten debris that may prevent adhesion of the epoxy.
then on the inside of the hull, taper the edges out about 3x the thickness of the hull at that point. only dig into the hull thickness about half way or slightly more, or you will have more filling to do.....

then cut a piece of mylar, or milk jug plastic, or cottage cheese lid (or some similar type of stiff plastic) slightly larger than the hole on the outside.

tape it over the outside of the hole firmly....

mix up some marine tex (or some other epoxy paste) and fill the hole from the inside, fairing it out but not pushing too hard so as not to push the plastic "form" away from the hull.... you can lay a piece of saran wrap over the epoxy and smooth it out now, or do it later with a powertool after it hardens.

depending on how well you filled the hole, this would normally be enough for a lot of people, but not for everyone, so....

after it has hardened, taper the hole from the outside, but only a little, and use either the white marine tex or gelcoat to fill the depression.... tape a larger piece mylar over it to smooth it out even with the surrounding surface and let it harden..... then use a nib file if necessary to fair it down even with the hull, or fill with more gelcoat or epoxy as needed.

TIP... when filling a hole this way with marine tex, I make sure the epoxy is at or above room temp so it flows nice, then I mix up enough so that i can place a dollop of it into a plastic sandwich baggie... into the corner. then i will squeeze it down and twist the baggie so its all contained in the corner. and when im ready to apply it, i nip the corner of the baggie and squeeze the epoxy in to the bottom of the hole... this insures you displace the air as much as possible and dont leave any hollow spots.

there may be only minor filling and fairing to do on the outside if the hole was filled completely to the form plastic.

when the epoxy is warm, it begins to stiffen up fairly quickly as it cools, so work quickly once you get it mixed.
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Thanks centerline for the tips. Okay no bilge pump outlet. Got that. I'm just a little paranoid about any through hull below the waterline. My previous boat ( a 40' gaff rigged sloop) almost sank at the marina from a nail hole that was repaired with a wooden matchstick. It's amazing how little a hole has to be to allow a LOT of water in. I have plenty of marine tex and will go that route. Thanks again guys.
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Talk to me Don. Is this not the stuff to use? I could put a plug in the outboard side of the through hull as centerline suggested and fill it from the top with epoxy. I know marine tex is more or less epoxy but when I used it on my transom it seemed to be a bit "chalky" and not rock hard which would make me sleep a little better. I really am not completely happy with removing the through hull that is in there now since it is very solid.
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Talk to me Don. Is this not the stuff to use? I could put a plug in the outboard side of the through hull as centerline suggested and fill it from the top with epoxy. I know marine tex is more or less epoxy but when I used it on my transom it seemed to be a bit "chalky" and not rock hard which would make me sleep a little better. I really am not completely happy with removing the through hull that is in there now since it is very solid.
the marine tex IS epoxy, and if you dont get it mixed right it could be a problem... but no worse than any other brand that isnt mixed right.

if its chalky, it was mixed wrong. when it is mixed according to directions it cures out shiny and smooth.

im not sure why anyone would question the use of it, unless they dont know about it.

do a search of the product and learn for yourself, rather than just taking our word for what you should use.

its easy to use, its the right consistency, its the right color, its very strong, its made for below the waterline repairs, and its sets relatively fast... and it can be applied underwater to make a temporary repair.

what is there NOT to like about it?... unless you are doing large scale repairs, then it makes sense to mix your own for monetary reasons...
 
Mar 20, 2012
3,983
Cal 34-III, MacGregor 25 Salem, Oregon
Using marine tex to fill a thruhull hole??:eek:
tell us why not?... what is so scary about using epoxy to fill a hole in the hull that you would throw doubt into someone about using it?....

its only a google search away to find out what it can be, and has been, used for...
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,595
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
As the West System manual describes, any hull hole should be feathered and layered with new glass so as to ensure the integrity and strength of the bond. Just putting a 'plug' of Marine Tex in it may not achieve a solid single surface.
 
May 17, 2004
5,891
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
I really am not completely happy with removing the through hull that is in there now since it is very solid.
Maybe I'm misinterpreting the picture, but from what I see there is un-reinforced hose running to a plastic fitting with no seacock. I'm afraid I could think of some adjectives for that other than "solid". Certainly seems like more points of failure than an epoxied over hole.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,092
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Glass reinforced plastic (GRP or aka FRP) derives its' strength from the glass fibers, with the plastic merely there to "hold" the fibers in the right position and to provide a bond to the adjoining surfaces. Epoxy by itself is NOT a structural material. You can use it for things like fairing and filleting where it is not under load but absolutely NOT to fill an underwater hole in your boat all by itself. Working with fiberglass is easy and if you screw it up you can just grind it off and do it again. Nothing to be afraid of. Follow the West System instructions and you'll have a great repair.
 
Sep 25, 2008
7,595
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
tell us why not?... what is so scary about using epoxy to fill a hole in the hull that you would throw doubt into someone about using it?....

its only a google search away to find out what it can be, and has been, used for...
I assume you have your answers now?
 
Oct 21, 2014
190
Oday 22 Richmond
Yes I have some answers. All of this boils down to if I am going to be comfortable with whatever I do. Good or bad, the configuration I have is from the factory. No it does not have a seacock which in itself is a bit flaky. I'm sure I could affect a repair using glass as is described in the reference for West Systems but I am not sure I shouldn't leave the through hole alone and somehow plug it. I don't want to beat a dead horse here and I really appreciate all your input. One final question. If I retained the through hole as it is and added a seacock would that be adequate? What about adding a seacock and filling the through hole from the outside with epoxy or silicone? I don't want to give the impression that I don't regard everyone's advice. I'm just looking at options that don't rely on me doing something for the first time on such a critical component. Thanks again.
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,092
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Hard to tell but it looks like a nylon fitting. For underwater only Marelon should be used for a plastic fitting. You are making this into a much bigger project than it is. Take out the fitting, prepare the surfaces with a little sanding, lay up some layers of epoxy saturated fiberglass cloth on the inside extending the cloth well past the diameter of the hole. Once it cures, do the same on the outside, when that cures sand it smooth put a couple coats of epoxy over it extending past the repair as a barrier coat and then paint it. You are looking at maybe two hours worth of work and about 40 bucks of materials. If you can find a smaller quantity of epoxy than a pint or a quart it may cost less. As long as you mix the epoxy in the right ratio you will not have any trouble at all. After doing this you will never be afraid of working with fiberglass again, it can be messy but it is easy. Get some tight fitting nitrile gloves so you don't get the chemicals all over your skin.
Putting a ball valve on a nylon fitting is not recommended, they don't have the strength, and you will always have something sticking up that could get hit and break off, if that happens you will really be in trouble. Marelon is glass filled plastic so it has a lot more strength. It is a lot whiter in color than nylon. Until you do the modification, get a tapered wooden plug and tape it to the fitting so if it breaks you can plug the hole.

Do this right and never worry about it again.
 
Jun 2, 2004
1,949
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
Plastic thru-hull in compartment, plugged with a wooden plug..... heavy (or not so heavy!) object gets placed or dropped into said compartment, hits vulnerable thru-hull and breaks it off...... instant, unstoppable geyser!

I'd remove the thru-hull and glass over the hole. The idea of filling the thru-hull (left in place) with epoxy or other filler sounded fine at first, but my concern would be just how permanently that plug of epoxy would remain in place. Marine-Tex is great stuff and I've never had it become "unglued", but it would not be sufficient to seal off a hole like this without fiberglass cloth reinforcement. Again, I'd glass over the hole as recommended.