Question about Drilling into the Deck for New Line Clutches

[CapitalistSailor]

I have a 2000 Beneteau 311 and I want to add a couple more line clutches to the cabin top. There is some open, bare space next to the original clutches that appears to be there to add more hardware later. Does anyone know what is underneath before I start drilling holes, solid fiberglass, or maybe a piece of aluminum or plywood inside the fiberglass?

Thanks in advance.

 

[justsomeguy]

Does anyone know what is underneath before I start drilling holes, solid fiberglass, or maybe a piece of aluminum or plywood inside the fiberglass?

I would think you could pull one of the neighboring clutches to see what's under there?

 

[Philip_Oceanis 361]

I have a 2000 Beneteau 311 and I want to add a couple more line clutches to the cabin top. There is some open, bare space next to the original clutches that appears to there to add more hardware later. Does anyone know what is underneath before I start drilling holes, solid fiberglass, or maybe a piece of aluminum or plywood inside the fiberglass?

Thanks in advance.

Most probably it is similar to my Beneteau 361 which by the way I have also added some more spinlock clutches. Below the fiberglass cabin top, inside the boat I mean, there's a wooden panel that you need to remove (little screws around it) to have access to the inside part where you will put the nuts. It's a very easy job.

 

[Kings Gambit]

A similar bare space on my Bavaria has a metal plate, probably aluminum, embedded in there. One has to drill and tap that plate under the fiberglass to mount the rope clutch, which is what I did.

 

[Jackdaw]

On Beneteaus smooth glass is a sure-fire sign of solid glass underneath. With anti-skid, likely cored (but still might be solid depending on the boat and location)

 

[Gunni]

No core or metal plate, just fiberglass laminate. You need to start by removing the access panel inside the boat as Philip notes and inspect the area under deck prior to drilling.

 

[CapitalistSailor]

Thank you for all the suggestions. Yes, there are some wood access panels underneath the existing clutches, but the boat is 70 miles away and it's winter, so I was hoping the forum would know before I drove out there and started taking things apart. And the forum has responded, so thanks.

 

[Kings Gambit]

Thank you for all the suggestions. Yes, there are some wood access panels underneath the existing clutches, but the boat is 70 miles away and it's winter, so I was hoping the forum would know before I drove out there and started taking things apart. An the forum has responded, so thanks.

I drive 87 miles (and back) to my boat twice a month though Los Angeles sometimes just to do a day's work on it.

 

[jssailem]

I drive 87 miles

You got it easy. I drive 265 one way through Portland OR, Olympia WA, Tacoma WA and Seattle WA traffic where WDOT says they have highways built for 1 Million cars and 3 million are trying to use the system each day. Just to get a couple of nights on the boat and time to continue the refit.

Sure I am crazy... until I am sailing in the Pacific NW then it all is good.

 

[SG]

I would plan on using a backing plate(s) and through bolting the clutches regardless.
You would be predrilling the holes and easing the gelcoat to avoid subsequent cracks. I'd also use flexible Lifecaulk (or equal) in the holes so that you protect the core.

I'd do that if you had SOLID glass. Sometimes there is a vertical load on the clutch that you don't anticipate -- even if your think the bolts are only going to working in "shear", not in bending, tension, or torsion.

 

[Gunni]

Rope clutches are subject to removal, repair and replacement so I only use butyl tape these days, replaced bedding compound like dolphinite. Doesn't bring up your gelcoat when you remove your deck fitting.

 

[SG]

Gunni, Do you seal the drilled hole in the core with epoxy? Life Calk is what I've always used in the past. Although I've seen people over drill the hole, then fill it with epoxy, then redrill it.

 

[jssailem]

SG. I'm a plus one on Gunni's recommendation of Butyl. Seals very well and you can remove and replace the parts as they need it.

When you drill if solid great. If you go thru wood core, you will want to pot the holes with epoxy to protect the core then re-drill the hole in the center of the potted hole making it nye impossible to get water into the core. Here is one look at process.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/sealing_the_deck&page=1
You can also see the process on West Systems site.
It is the best way to protect your deck from rot due to holes through core material.
Rotted core deck is thousands of dollar$ lost.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Gunni, Do you seal the drilled hole in the core with epoxy? Life Calk is what I've always used in the past. Although I've seen people over drill the hole, then fill it with epoxy, then redrill it.

Overdrilling and filling with epoxy is the recommended procedure for cored deck, but these sections on Beneteau's are solid glass, so there shouldn't be any real need for that.

 

[Gunni]

Gunni, Do you seal the drilled hole in the core with epoxy? Life Calk is what I've always used in the past. Although I've seen people over drill the hole, then fill it with epoxy, then redrill it.

SG, there is no core in this area of the Beneteau cabin top because it is designed to install some number of clutches and cleats. If it did have core, it would be necessary to over drill, epoxy fill and re-drill.