I read that an opened tube will not last more than a couple days, is this true? and will storing it in the fridg help?
question about 3m 4200
- Thread starter newsailor72
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What will you be using it for?
IMHO, the only two items needed are silicone (if you have Beckson portlights) and butyl tape. Maybe Dow 795 for fixed port rebedding.
4200 and it's evil twin, 5200, really have no use on a boat except for hull to deck joints, and I doubt you'll be doing that, unless I'm wrong, which has been, repeatedly, noted...
Sealants and adhesives are two different materials, and I have to work really hard to figure out where an adhesive is needed on most if not all sailboats.
Good luck, your boat, your choice, but, please, do some research on materials before you apply that stuff.
IMHO, the only two items needed are silicone (if you have Beckson portlights) and butyl tape. Maybe Dow 795 for fixed port rebedding.
4200 and it's evil twin, 5200, really have no use on a boat except for hull to deck joints, and I doubt you'll be doing that, unless I'm wrong, which has been, repeatedly, noted...
Sealants and adhesives are two different materials, and I have to work really hard to figure out where an adhesive is needed on most if not all sailboats.
Good luck, your boat, your choice, but, please, do some research on materials before you apply that stuff.
I'll be using it to re-seal the rubber pad and the fiberglassed support underneath it. above the rubber pad is the cockpit sole. the rubber pad is inside my cabin.
here's my original thread.
http://forums.macgregor.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=154668
here's my original thread.
http://forums.macgregor.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=154668
ns, in that post you said:
I think resealing it should do it for now. I guess 3m 4200 is the sealant to use then.
4200 is simply NOT a sealant, per se, it is an adhesive.
Have you considered following the advice provided in that thread you linked to and using fiberglass?
I simply am not that aware of the details of that (your) boat, so am just commenting on the selection of material for the repair.
Good luck.
I think resealing it should do it for now. I guess 3m 4200 is the sealant to use then.
4200 is simply NOT a sealant, per se, it is an adhesive.
Have you considered following the advice provided in that thread you linked to and using fiberglass?
I simply am not that aware of the details of that (your) boat, so am just commenting on the selection of material for the repair.
Good luck.
making an airtight cap will often extend it's usability for weeks. I thread a yellow/red wirenut on the end when I am done for the day, and worse case you thread a dry wall screw into the plugged/now drying part of the 4200 and pull it out, or just cut a tidge more off the end.
anything 3M is too expensive to waste
I would not do this in a critical construction or production shop, but for casual repairs as you mention....no problem
I routinely keep 4200 and 5200 in the vegetable crisper drawer in the frig. They keep for many many months like that.
And 4200, and 5200, are very good, used for what they should be used for. 5200 is an ADHESIVE, so that's how it should be used. I use it for hull/deck joins, keel/hull joins, etc. Things that may not need parting for many years.
4200 is much less tenacious. Has quite a few uses in bedding hardware.
Butyl is an excellent sealant, but not for everything.
As for Silicone- I don't allow it onto my boats
And 4200, and 5200, are very good, used for what they should be used for. 5200 is an ADHESIVE, so that's how it should be used. I use it for hull/deck joins, keel/hull joins, etc. Things that may not need parting for many years.
4200 is much less tenacious. Has quite a few uses in bedding hardware.
Butyl is an excellent sealant, but not for everything.
As for Silicone- I don't allow it onto my boats
silicone is not allowed on my boat either. It does not stick well to plastics without massive prep to rough the surface.
Poly-sulfide for below the water line (aka lifecaulk)
dow 795 for fixed ports
never had an occasion to use butal tape as poly-sulfide was handy and works FOREVER and sticks to EVERYTHING
Poly-sulfide for below the water line (aka lifecaulk)
dow 795 for fixed ports
never had an occasion to use butal tape as poly-sulfide was handy and works FOREVER and sticks to EVERYTHING
I answered your email and my thoughts in that echo alot of what is said on here.
Using fiberglass for this job is NOT appropriate. It will crack and break since the cockpit sort of floats over the hull.
Butyl tape would work for this job on the rubber pad parts - the issue will be the brass tube that acts as the scupper through the rubber pads if that part of this happens to be leaking from above when water gets in the cockpit. The brass scupper extends thru the cockpit sole and into the rubber pads (mine has 2 layers of pads). I tried butyl on this tube and it just didn't hold up.
Silicon has also been banned from my boat since the PO used it on everything with a result of me having to replace almost all decking including the cockpit sole.
I did use dow 795 for the portlights when I deleted the frames.
YMMV - your boat - your choice.
Happy sails.
I have received very long life from opened tubes of 4200 by putting them in a ziplock bag and storing them in the freezer. Just did a shoe repair with a 1 yr old tube of 4200. Came out soft and sticky right from the freezer.
I wouldn't "allow" silicone on my boat either, EXCEPT (just so some will learn) that BECKSON recommends it for their ports and I have eight of 'em. It's the ONLY place I use it.
It's the ONLY place I use it.- Status