PEGGY:I WILL REPLACE THE PLUMBING TO MY EXISTING HEAD.MY QUESTION IS THE TYPE OF TUBING I CAN USE.I WAS TOLD ON THE HUNTER FORUM THAT YOU CAN USE RIDGID P.V.C. PIPE INSTEAD OF SANITATION HOSE THAT I HAVE SEEN IN WEST MARINE.HOWEVER ,I FOUND FLEX P.V.C. TUBING (THE LABLE SAYS "VIYNL PVC")CAN I USE THAT?
pvc pipe
- Thread starter lloyd1814
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PEGGY:I WILL REPLACE THE PLUMBING TO MY EXISTING HEAD.MY QUESTION IS THE TYPE OF TUBING I CAN USE.I WAS TOLD ON THE HUNTER FORUM THAT YOU CAN USE RIDGID P.V.C. PIPE INSTEAD OF SANITATION HOSE THAT I HAVE SEEN IN WEST MARINE.HOWEVER ,I FOUND FLEX P.V.C. TUBING (THE LABLE SAYS "VIYNL PVC")CAN I USE THAT?
All white sanitation hose is flex PVC
The question is whether to use rigid PVC ("hard pipe"--the same kind used in houses). The only advantage to hard pipe is, it's not susceptible to odor permeation...but it does have drawbacks. It doesn't bend, which means it can need a lot of radius fittings, all of which must be cemented and can become potential leaks. It also must be "soft coupled" to anything fixed--toilet, tank, thru-hull, y-valve, etc--with enough hose to protect it from shock and flex in heavy seas and/or hitting the dock hard. So while there are some here who may disagree, hard pipe isn't really recommended for anything except long straight runs. The best hose on the market is AVS96, made by these folks http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm It's been proven in independent testing to be at least 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose. $5/ft, cut to any length.
The question is whether to use rigid PVC ("hard pipe"--the same kind used in houses). The only advantage to hard pipe is, it's not susceptible to odor permeation...but it does have drawbacks. It doesn't bend, which means it can need a lot of radius fittings, all of which must be cemented and can become potential leaks. It also must be "soft coupled" to anything fixed--toilet, tank, thru-hull, y-valve, etc--with enough hose to protect it from shock and flex in heavy seas and/or hitting the dock hard. So while there are some here who may disagree, hard pipe isn't really recommended for anything except long straight runs. The best hose on the market is AVS96, made by these folks http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm It's been proven in independent testing to be at least 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose. $5/ft, cut to any length.
All white sanitation hose is flex PVC
The question is whether to use rigid PVC ("hard pipe"--the same kind used in houses). The only advantage to hard pipe is, it's not susceptible to odor permeation...but it does have drawbacks. It doesn't bend, which means it can need a lot of radius fittings, all of which must be cemented and can become potential leaks. It also must be "soft coupled" to anything fixed--toilet, tank, thru-hull, y-valve, etc--with enough hose to protect it from shock and flex in heavy seas and/or hitting the dock hard. So while there are some here who may disagree, hard pipe isn't really recommended for anything except long straight runs. The best hose on the market is AVS96, made by these folks http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm It's been proven in independent testing to be at least 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose. $5/ft, cut to any length.
The question is whether to use rigid PVC ("hard pipe"--the same kind used in houses). The only advantage to hard pipe is, it's not susceptible to odor permeation...but it does have drawbacks. It doesn't bend, which means it can need a lot of radius fittings, all of which must be cemented and can become potential leaks. It also must be "soft coupled" to anything fixed--toilet, tank, thru-hull, y-valve, etc--with enough hose to protect it from shock and flex in heavy seas and/or hitting the dock hard. So while there are some here who may disagree, hard pipe isn't really recommended for anything except long straight runs. The best hose on the market is AVS96, made by these folks http://www.aussieglobe.com/avs96.htm It's been proven in independent testing to be at least 16x more resistant to odor permeation than any other hose. $5/ft, cut to any length.
connections??
how is the bst way to connect the aussie flex to the rigid pipe?? I have three straight runs that are 8 foot and would rather use the rigid for that area.
how is the bst way to connect the aussie flex to the rigid pipe?? I have three straight runs that are 8 foot and would rather use the rigid for that area.
connections??
how is the bst way to connect the aussie flex to the rigid pipe?? I have three straight runs that are 8 foot and would rather use the rigid for that area.
how is the bst way to connect the aussie flex to the rigid pipe?? I have three straight runs that are 8 foot and would rather use the rigid for that area.
PVC wins for me
I absolutely LOVE using CPVC for boat plumbing and if possible wouldn't use anything else. When designing a boat from the keel up, it is simple enough to lay out the plumbing runs so as to maximise the use of semi-rigid pipe. All plumbing runs should be clear and visually accessible anyway. The sanity of using forethought to lay them out logically will pay dividends in the future when you or someone else must trace them to repair the system or add a new component. I am currently replumbing my 1974 boat and designed and fabricated a two-tank manifold with a drain to the bilge and separate feeds to the galley and head sinks, all out of 1/2" CPVC. I think it took an hour or so to lay it out and about 15 minutes to put it together. The stuff is wonderful. You don't even have to cut the joints precisely, as you would have to with copper. Any sawn-off end, half-decently cut, with enough penetration into the fitting, will be fine. (I used a hacksaw to cut on a pencil line-- done.) It is strong enough for any onboard pressure-water system, will not corrode, weaken, or leak, transmits no ugly taste, and is chemically clean enough for potable water (most new houses are done with it). Worried about the glue, I asked the guy at the plumbing place about using it for even the gasoline fill. He said, the glue IS the pipe material; they are they same plastic and therefore share the same properties. When the glue sets up (in about 15 seconds!) the two parts and the glue are all fused together as one. It will not leak at the joint unless the fit was so bad there was no glue coverage somewhere. And CPVC is okay with gasoline-tank fills. I have not yet put the gasoline fill line together, but I am not worried about the fuel nozzle shoving the hose off and flooding the bilge with gasoline any more. The point about CPVC being inflexible is only partially true. I had to run a pipe up along the curve of the hull, from the bilge to underneath the bunktop, and was elated to find that it simply bent right up there. I glued an elbow on the end of it, slid it back into place, and let the elbow poke out the opening under the bunktop where I could reach it with another piece from under the galley. It was perfect. The stuff will make any reasonable bend along the sheer, against the hull, between two holes not perfectly in alignment, and so forth. It is flexible enough to withstand bending stresses and even vibration without cracking. I would, however, strongly recommend using a small section of hose between the pipe network and any fixed component such as a seacock or a toilet. This is good for 2 reasons: 1. Too much vibration can always crack something, especially if ice or pressure can be involved. CPVC is not steel-- or hose. 2. Maintenance is easier if you can detach the pipe network from components that could need service. A rule of thumb might be to provide a short length of hose between the network and anything that would ever have to be detached from it. Make sure the hose is long enough to bend out of the way to free up the component (maybe 4 - 6"?). To include hose, simply glue a threaded fitting on the end of the pipe, thread in a grey nylon hose barb, and then put in the hose. There are plenty of ways to adapt to odd sizes using adapters, either pipe-to-pipe or at the hose barb itself. (I even found a way to adapt to the Rule-only 1-1/8" bilge-pump size.) I used white nylon screw-down cable clamps to fasten the network and the tank manifold to the boat. Worked as though it'd been designed to. And you can always add to it. Just hack a section out with a hacksaw, manhandle the new section with a tee and slip-on couplings, and glue it back together. JC 2
I absolutely LOVE using CPVC for boat plumbing and if possible wouldn't use anything else. When designing a boat from the keel up, it is simple enough to lay out the plumbing runs so as to maximise the use of semi-rigid pipe. All plumbing runs should be clear and visually accessible anyway. The sanity of using forethought to lay them out logically will pay dividends in the future when you or someone else must trace them to repair the system or add a new component. I am currently replumbing my 1974 boat and designed and fabricated a two-tank manifold with a drain to the bilge and separate feeds to the galley and head sinks, all out of 1/2" CPVC. I think it took an hour or so to lay it out and about 15 minutes to put it together. The stuff is wonderful. You don't even have to cut the joints precisely, as you would have to with copper. Any sawn-off end, half-decently cut, with enough penetration into the fitting, will be fine. (I used a hacksaw to cut on a pencil line-- done.) It is strong enough for any onboard pressure-water system, will not corrode, weaken, or leak, transmits no ugly taste, and is chemically clean enough for potable water (most new houses are done with it). Worried about the glue, I asked the guy at the plumbing place about using it for even the gasoline fill. He said, the glue IS the pipe material; they are they same plastic and therefore share the same properties. When the glue sets up (in about 15 seconds!) the two parts and the glue are all fused together as one. It will not leak at the joint unless the fit was so bad there was no glue coverage somewhere. And CPVC is okay with gasoline-tank fills. I have not yet put the gasoline fill line together, but I am not worried about the fuel nozzle shoving the hose off and flooding the bilge with gasoline any more. The point about CPVC being inflexible is only partially true. I had to run a pipe up along the curve of the hull, from the bilge to underneath the bunktop, and was elated to find that it simply bent right up there. I glued an elbow on the end of it, slid it back into place, and let the elbow poke out the opening under the bunktop where I could reach it with another piece from under the galley. It was perfect. The stuff will make any reasonable bend along the sheer, against the hull, between two holes not perfectly in alignment, and so forth. It is flexible enough to withstand bending stresses and even vibration without cracking. I would, however, strongly recommend using a small section of hose between the pipe network and any fixed component such as a seacock or a toilet. This is good for 2 reasons: 1. Too much vibration can always crack something, especially if ice or pressure can be involved. CPVC is not steel-- or hose. 2. Maintenance is easier if you can detach the pipe network from components that could need service. A rule of thumb might be to provide a short length of hose between the network and anything that would ever have to be detached from it. Make sure the hose is long enough to bend out of the way to free up the component (maybe 4 - 6"?). To include hose, simply glue a threaded fitting on the end of the pipe, thread in a grey nylon hose barb, and then put in the hose. There are plenty of ways to adapt to odd sizes using adapters, either pipe-to-pipe or at the hose barb itself. (I even found a way to adapt to the Rule-only 1-1/8" bilge-pump size.) I used white nylon screw-down cable clamps to fasten the network and the tank manifold to the boat. Worked as though it'd been designed to. And you can always add to it. Just hack a section out with a hacksaw, manhandle the new section with a tee and slip-on couplings, and glue it back together. JC 2
PVC wins for me
I absolutely LOVE using CPVC for boat plumbing and if possible wouldn't use anything else. When designing a boat from the keel up, it is simple enough to lay out the plumbing runs so as to maximise the use of semi-rigid pipe. All plumbing runs should be clear and visually accessible anyway. The sanity of using forethought to lay them out logically will pay dividends in the future when you or someone else must trace them to repair the system or add a new component. I am currently replumbing my 1974 boat and designed and fabricated a two-tank manifold with a drain to the bilge and separate feeds to the galley and head sinks, all out of 1/2" CPVC. I think it took an hour or so to lay it out and about 15 minutes to put it together. The stuff is wonderful. You don't even have to cut the joints precisely, as you would have to with copper. Any sawn-off end, half-decently cut, with enough penetration into the fitting, will be fine. (I used a hacksaw to cut on a pencil line-- done.) It is strong enough for any onboard pressure-water system, will not corrode, weaken, or leak, transmits no ugly taste, and is chemically clean enough for potable water (most new houses are done with it). Worried about the glue, I asked the guy at the plumbing place about using it for even the gasoline fill. He said, the glue IS the pipe material; they are they same plastic and therefore share the same properties. When the glue sets up (in about 15 seconds!) the two parts and the glue are all fused together as one. It will not leak at the joint unless the fit was so bad there was no glue coverage somewhere. And CPVC is okay with gasoline-tank fills. I have not yet put the gasoline fill line together, but I am not worried about the fuel nozzle shoving the hose off and flooding the bilge with gasoline any more. The point about CPVC being inflexible is only partially true. I had to run a pipe up along the curve of the hull, from the bilge to underneath the bunktop, and was elated to find that it simply bent right up there. I glued an elbow on the end of it, slid it back into place, and let the elbow poke out the opening under the bunktop where I could reach it with another piece from under the galley. It was perfect. The stuff will make any reasonable bend along the sheer, against the hull, between two holes not perfectly in alignment, and so forth. It is flexible enough to withstand bending stresses and even vibration without cracking. I would, however, strongly recommend using a small section of hose between the pipe network and any fixed component such as a seacock or a toilet. This is good for 2 reasons: 1. Too much vibration can always crack something, especially if ice or pressure can be involved. CPVC is not steel-- or hose. 2. Maintenance is easier if you can detach the pipe network from components that could need service. A rule of thumb might be to provide a short length of hose between the network and anything that would ever have to be detached from it. Make sure the hose is long enough to bend out of the way to free up the component (maybe 4 - 6"?). To include hose, simply glue a threaded fitting on the end of the pipe, thread in a grey nylon hose barb, and then put in the hose. There are plenty of ways to adapt to odd sizes using adapters, either pipe-to-pipe or at the hose barb itself. (I even found a way to adapt to the Rule-only 1-1/8" bilge-pump size.) I used white nylon screw-down cable clamps to fasten the network and the tank manifold to the boat. Worked as though it'd been designed to. And you can always add to it. Just hack a section out with a hacksaw, manhandle the new section with a tee and slip-on couplings, and glue it back together. JC 2
I absolutely LOVE using CPVC for boat plumbing and if possible wouldn't use anything else. When designing a boat from the keel up, it is simple enough to lay out the plumbing runs so as to maximise the use of semi-rigid pipe. All plumbing runs should be clear and visually accessible anyway. The sanity of using forethought to lay them out logically will pay dividends in the future when you or someone else must trace them to repair the system or add a new component. I am currently replumbing my 1974 boat and designed and fabricated a two-tank manifold with a drain to the bilge and separate feeds to the galley and head sinks, all out of 1/2" CPVC. I think it took an hour or so to lay it out and about 15 minutes to put it together. The stuff is wonderful. You don't even have to cut the joints precisely, as you would have to with copper. Any sawn-off end, half-decently cut, with enough penetration into the fitting, will be fine. (I used a hacksaw to cut on a pencil line-- done.) It is strong enough for any onboard pressure-water system, will not corrode, weaken, or leak, transmits no ugly taste, and is chemically clean enough for potable water (most new houses are done with it). Worried about the glue, I asked the guy at the plumbing place about using it for even the gasoline fill. He said, the glue IS the pipe material; they are they same plastic and therefore share the same properties. When the glue sets up (in about 15 seconds!) the two parts and the glue are all fused together as one. It will not leak at the joint unless the fit was so bad there was no glue coverage somewhere. And CPVC is okay with gasoline-tank fills. I have not yet put the gasoline fill line together, but I am not worried about the fuel nozzle shoving the hose off and flooding the bilge with gasoline any more. The point about CPVC being inflexible is only partially true. I had to run a pipe up along the curve of the hull, from the bilge to underneath the bunktop, and was elated to find that it simply bent right up there. I glued an elbow on the end of it, slid it back into place, and let the elbow poke out the opening under the bunktop where I could reach it with another piece from under the galley. It was perfect. The stuff will make any reasonable bend along the sheer, against the hull, between two holes not perfectly in alignment, and so forth. It is flexible enough to withstand bending stresses and even vibration without cracking. I would, however, strongly recommend using a small section of hose between the pipe network and any fixed component such as a seacock or a toilet. This is good for 2 reasons: 1. Too much vibration can always crack something, especially if ice or pressure can be involved. CPVC is not steel-- or hose. 2. Maintenance is easier if you can detach the pipe network from components that could need service. A rule of thumb might be to provide a short length of hose between the network and anything that would ever have to be detached from it. Make sure the hose is long enough to bend out of the way to free up the component (maybe 4 - 6"?). To include hose, simply glue a threaded fitting on the end of the pipe, thread in a grey nylon hose barb, and then put in the hose. There are plenty of ways to adapt to odd sizes using adapters, either pipe-to-pipe or at the hose barb itself. (I even found a way to adapt to the Rule-only 1-1/8" bilge-pump size.) I used white nylon screw-down cable clamps to fasten the network and the tank manifold to the boat. Worked as though it'd been designed to. And you can always add to it. Just hack a section out with a hacksaw, manhandle the new section with a tee and slip-on couplings, and glue it back together. JC 2
Be REAL careful using any CPVC for gas line
I would not advise it without some very thorough research. That would include my own testing to make sure that it doesn't soften or melt from the exposure to gasoline as well as the vapors. I would even go so far as to ask the CG - drastic as that is.
I would not advise it without some very thorough research. That would include my own testing to make sure that it doesn't soften or melt from the exposure to gasoline as well as the vapors. I would even go so far as to ask the CG - drastic as that is.
CPVC
The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep. CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours. You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle. I would not make a tank out of CPVC; but an easily-inspected and -maintained, short length of schedule-40 pipe, not under pressure, between filler fitting and tank should not pose a problem. If it were styrene like the plastic hose barbs used on vent fittings I'd be more worried. What else would I use, if not hose? Brass pipe? --no thanks! JC 2
The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep. CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours. You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle. I would not make a tank out of CPVC; but an easily-inspected and -maintained, short length of schedule-40 pipe, not under pressure, between filler fitting and tank should not pose a problem. If it were styrene like the plastic hose barbs used on vent fittings I'd be more worried. What else would I use, if not hose? Brass pipe? --no thanks! JC 2
CPVC
The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep. CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours. You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle. I would not make a tank out of CPVC; but an easily-inspected and -maintained, short length of schedule-40 pipe, not under pressure, between filler fitting and tank should not pose a problem. If it were styrene like the plastic hose barbs used on vent fittings I'd be more worried. What else would I use, if not hose? Brass pipe? --no thanks! JC 2
The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep. CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours. You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle. I would not make a tank out of CPVC; but an easily-inspected and -maintained, short length of schedule-40 pipe, not under pressure, between filler fitting and tank should not pose a problem. If it were styrene like the plastic hose barbs used on vent fittings I'd be more worried. What else would I use, if not hose? Brass pipe? --no thanks! JC 2
I'm with Patrick.
Check with the CG. Next time you're in your favorite marine store take a look at fuel hose. See how thick it is? It's made that way for boats because of,,,drum roll,,,FIRE! And by fire, the CG is concerned with gasoline. Diesel doesn't count for squat. And JC, that's a bit extreme isn't it? The part about not filling the hose. Sheeze.
Check with the CG. Next time you're in your favorite marine store take a look at fuel hose. See how thick it is? It's made that way for boats because of,,,drum roll,,,FIRE! And by fire, the CG is concerned with gasoline. Diesel doesn't count for squat. And JC, that's a bit extreme isn't it? The part about not filling the hose. Sheeze.
I'm with Patrick.
Check with the CG. Next time you're in your favorite marine store take a look at fuel hose. See how thick it is? It's made that way for boats because of,,,drum roll,,,FIRE! And by fire, the CG is concerned with gasoline. Diesel doesn't count for squat. And JC, that's a bit extreme isn't it? The part about not filling the hose. Sheeze.
Check with the CG. Next time you're in your favorite marine store take a look at fuel hose. See how thick it is? It's made that way for boats because of,,,drum roll,,,FIRE! And by fire, the CG is concerned with gasoline. Diesel doesn't count for squat. And JC, that's a bit extreme isn't it? The part about not filling the hose. Sheeze.
'C' in CPVC stands for 'Chlorinated' PVC
That is a bit misleading since the monomer is already "chlorinated" (vinyl chloride). It seems to refer to a treatment subsequent to polymerization. Other references to CPVC are to "crosslinked" PVC which is used in other applications than this one for common plumbing piping. "The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep." The plumbing rep is obviously not correct. CPVC is more chemical resistant but as I understand it, this is mainly if not exclusively for aqueous chemicals, acids and bases - not organic liquids or solvents. The only ratings I could find for CPVC as relates to fuels or solvents is that it is a G for good resistance to solvents. The same rating system gives it an E for excellent for acids and bases. "CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline" Ph is not relevant in non aqueous media. Gasoline and oils are not aqueous and therefore do not have a Ph rating. There is no way to compare these substances with regard to Ph. "and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours." You better hope so. Vapors are the lightest MW and probably the most permeating material found in fuels. They are the most likely substances to weaken the pipe or pass through existing weaknesses in the pipe, fittings, or other seals meant to contain them. They are also the greatest fire hazard. "You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle." I hope you are not counting on this to keep the fuel in its place. No one I know in 30 years of boating has ever suggested this practice or could reasonably be expected to follow this procedure. Wave action alone will cause some fuel to slosh up into the filler tube no matter what steps you take to prevent overfilling it at the fuel dock. Suffice it to say, my concern is that the CPVC is just not suitable for use in this application. I agree that, properly installed, it is fine for the other piping in the boats water systems. Use almost any other metal or rated pipe and attach it with rated connections. I am saying this for your safety and the safety of others aboard. Ask the CG or a surveyer if you do not believe me. Please!
That is a bit misleading since the monomer is already "chlorinated" (vinyl chloride). It seems to refer to a treatment subsequent to polymerization. Other references to CPVC are to "crosslinked" PVC which is used in other applications than this one for common plumbing piping. "The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep." The plumbing rep is obviously not correct. CPVC is more chemical resistant but as I understand it, this is mainly if not exclusively for aqueous chemicals, acids and bases - not organic liquids or solvents. The only ratings I could find for CPVC as relates to fuels or solvents is that it is a G for good resistance to solvents. The same rating system gives it an E for excellent for acids and bases. "CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline" Ph is not relevant in non aqueous media. Gasoline and oils are not aqueous and therefore do not have a Ph rating. There is no way to compare these substances with regard to Ph. "and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours." You better hope so. Vapors are the lightest MW and probably the most permeating material found in fuels. They are the most likely substances to weaken the pipe or pass through existing weaknesses in the pipe, fittings, or other seals meant to contain them. They are also the greatest fire hazard. "You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle." I hope you are not counting on this to keep the fuel in its place. No one I know in 30 years of boating has ever suggested this practice or could reasonably be expected to follow this procedure. Wave action alone will cause some fuel to slosh up into the filler tube no matter what steps you take to prevent overfilling it at the fuel dock. Suffice it to say, my concern is that the CPVC is just not suitable for use in this application. I agree that, properly installed, it is fine for the other piping in the boats water systems. Use almost any other metal or rated pipe and attach it with rated connections. I am saying this for your safety and the safety of others aboard. Ask the CG or a surveyer if you do not believe me. Please!
'C' in CPVC stands for 'Chlorinated' PVC
That is a bit misleading since the monomer is already "chlorinated" (vinyl chloride). It seems to refer to a treatment subsequent to polymerization. Other references to CPVC are to "crosslinked" PVC which is used in other applications than this one for common plumbing piping. "The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep." The plumbing rep is obviously not correct. CPVC is more chemical resistant but as I understand it, this is mainly if not exclusively for aqueous chemicals, acids and bases - not organic liquids or solvents. The only ratings I could find for CPVC as relates to fuels or solvents is that it is a G for good resistance to solvents. The same rating system gives it an E for excellent for acids and bases. "CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline" Ph is not relevant in non aqueous media. Gasoline and oils are not aqueous and therefore do not have a Ph rating. There is no way to compare these substances with regard to Ph. "and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours." You better hope so. Vapors are the lightest MW and probably the most permeating material found in fuels. They are the most likely substances to weaken the pipe or pass through existing weaknesses in the pipe, fittings, or other seals meant to contain them. They are also the greatest fire hazard. "You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle." I hope you are not counting on this to keep the fuel in its place. No one I know in 30 years of boating has ever suggested this practice or could reasonably be expected to follow this procedure. Wave action alone will cause some fuel to slosh up into the filler tube no matter what steps you take to prevent overfilling it at the fuel dock. Suffice it to say, my concern is that the CPVC is just not suitable for use in this application. I agree that, properly installed, it is fine for the other piping in the boats water systems. Use almost any other metal or rated pipe and attach it with rated connections. I am saying this for your safety and the safety of others aboard. Ask the CG or a surveyer if you do not believe me. Please!
That is a bit misleading since the monomer is already "chlorinated" (vinyl chloride). It seems to refer to a treatment subsequent to polymerization. Other references to CPVC are to "crosslinked" PVC which is used in other applications than this one for common plumbing piping. "The 'C' in 'CPVC' stands for 'chemical resistant.' By design gasoline is included amongst those chemicals. This is the info I got from the plumbing sales rep." The plumbing rep is obviously not correct. CPVC is more chemical resistant but as I understand it, this is mainly if not exclusively for aqueous chemicals, acids and bases - not organic liquids or solvents. The only ratings I could find for CPVC as relates to fuels or solvents is that it is a G for good resistance to solvents. The same rating system gives it an E for excellent for acids and bases. "CPVC is used safely with many substances much more caustic or acidic than gasoline" Ph is not relevant in non aqueous media. Gasoline and oils are not aqueous and therefore do not have a Ph rating. There is no way to compare these substances with regard to Ph. "and in this instance all it's really doing is containing vapours." You better hope so. Vapors are the lightest MW and probably the most permeating material found in fuels. They are the most likely substances to weaken the pipe or pass through existing weaknesses in the pipe, fittings, or other seals meant to contain them. They are also the greatest fire hazard. "You should NEVER fill your tank so high that the passage of the filler neck, whether pipe or hose, actually holds fuel in storage. Hence my filling the tank myself from a smaller can rather than using the pressurised pump nozzle." I hope you are not counting on this to keep the fuel in its place. No one I know in 30 years of boating has ever suggested this practice or could reasonably be expected to follow this procedure. Wave action alone will cause some fuel to slosh up into the filler tube no matter what steps you take to prevent overfilling it at the fuel dock. Suffice it to say, my concern is that the CPVC is just not suitable for use in this application. I agree that, properly installed, it is fine for the other piping in the boats water systems. Use almost any other metal or rated pipe and attach it with rated connections. I am saying this for your safety and the safety of others aboard. Ask the CG or a surveyer if you do not believe me. Please!
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