I'm getting ready to put my trim that I just cleaned and varnished back on the boat. Someone suggested the 3M 4200 product. I picked some up and it was white. My question is, Do they make a clear product and would that be better than the white. I'M looking at a white boat but it looked like the product I stripped off was clear. Thanks for the help.
Putting teak trim back on Cat 22
- Thread starter paul17622
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Mask it
I just did the exact same project and used 4200. Mask off each attachment point so the 4200 doesn't extend past the teak attachment point. There is no clear 4200. Perhaps the previous stuff was clear silicon which is not a good bedding choice. Randy
I just did the exact same project and used 4200. Mask off each attachment point so the 4200 doesn't extend past the teak attachment point. There is no clear 4200. Perhaps the previous stuff was clear silicon which is not a good bedding choice. Randy
Randy K
I have the side trim strip to put back on, the hand rails and the cabin top guides. Did you put the 4200 the entire lenght or just around the screws? What do you mean by mask on the attachment point? Just where the screw goes in? I was going to use it like adhesive and make sure the hole is blocked solid. If I use it the full lenght will it fill any voids between the hull and the wood or make it look sloppy? Thanks for the input I just don't want to make a mess. Paul
I have the side trim strip to put back on, the hand rails and the cabin top guides. Did you put the 4200 the entire lenght or just around the screws? What do you mean by mask on the attachment point? Just where the screw goes in? I was going to use it like adhesive and make sure the hole is blocked solid. If I use it the full lenght will it fill any voids between the hull and the wood or make it look sloppy? Thanks for the input I just don't want to make a mess. Paul
replacing teak
the tape idea is good also you should go ahead and put a good amount of caulking on ,seal as much as you can,then use paint thiner to remove the excess before it dries
the tape idea is good also you should go ahead and put a good amount of caulking on ,seal as much as you can,then use paint thiner to remove the excess before it dries
masking off
A good way to re-install most fittings is to use masking tape, preferrably the low stick type so you can remove it easier later. Tape off the area so that it extends well beyond the point of contact. Dry fit your pieces to the boat, and using a razor knife or exacto, trace the outline of your fitting. Remove the fitting, then remove the tape from the point of contact, leaving the outer area tape in place. Apply your bedding compound to the fitting, or boat, and put the fitting into place. gently tighten the screws to pull the fitting against the boat, but don't fully tighten it. After waiting for the amount of time the directions say, finish tightening the screws. Take your razor knife, and carefully trace around the fitting again, cutting thru the bead of dried compound. Pull up the tape and you should have a neatly attached fitting. The excess compound will be on the tape, not your boat. On fittings that have exposed screw heads, put a little compound on the shaft of the screw, set in place. Put the washer and nut on and slightly tighten the nut only. Do not turn the screw. When the compound is set, tighten the nut some more. Do not turn the screw, or you will break the seal and risk having a leak.
A good way to re-install most fittings is to use masking tape, preferrably the low stick type so you can remove it easier later. Tape off the area so that it extends well beyond the point of contact. Dry fit your pieces to the boat, and using a razor knife or exacto, trace the outline of your fitting. Remove the fitting, then remove the tape from the point of contact, leaving the outer area tape in place. Apply your bedding compound to the fitting, or boat, and put the fitting into place. gently tighten the screws to pull the fitting against the boat, but don't fully tighten it. After waiting for the amount of time the directions say, finish tightening the screws. Take your razor knife, and carefully trace around the fitting again, cutting thru the bead of dried compound. Pull up the tape and you should have a neatly attached fitting. The excess compound will be on the tape, not your boat. On fittings that have exposed screw heads, put a little compound on the shaft of the screw, set in place. Put the washer and nut on and slightly tighten the nut only. Do not turn the screw. When the compound is set, tighten the nut some more. Do not turn the screw, or you will break the seal and risk having a leak.
I just caulk the holes
When I put my teak back on I only put caulk where the screw holes are. The screws are what holds the teak to the boat, you don't need the adhesive to do it. Using too much adhesive will make the job more difficult the next time you want to remove the teak. Just put a bead of caulk around each screw hole and then tighten but not all the way. Let it firm up and then finish the tightening - about a half turn in my case. Randy
When I put my teak back on I only put caulk where the screw holes are. The screws are what holds the teak to the boat, you don't need the adhesive to do it. Using too much adhesive will make the job more difficult the next time you want to remove the teak. Just put a bead of caulk around each screw hole and then tighten but not all the way. Let it firm up and then finish the tightening - about a half turn in my case. Randy
Thanks
Thanks you all for the comments. I'll try the masking. I need to get in in the water soon. Paul
Thanks you all for the comments. I'll try the masking. I need to get in in the water soon. Paul
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