I was out this weekend on a long cruise and accidentally ran my yanmar 2GMF dry. I had spare fuel with me but after pouring it in and priming the line until fuel came out of the bleed screw at the filter was not enough to get it started. It is not even close to starting and I suspect I have air between the filter and the cylinders. How can I bleed the rest of the line? Allen
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let it bleed
Did you use the hand lift pump located on the stbd. side of the engine? If you don't have the Yanmar manual there is a good set of bleeding instructions at the Yanmar page at www.torresen.com (a good site to visit anyway)
Did you use the hand lift pump located on the stbd. side of the engine? If you don't have the Yanmar manual there is a good set of bleeding instructions at the Yanmar page at www.torresen.com (a good site to visit anyway)
Priming Lever
Hi Steve, Yes I did use the lever but I think it only pushed the fuel as far as the filter & bleed screw. I don't think it pushes it as far as the injectors. I have the manual and it says to take the injector lines off and simutaneously turn the engine over. The problem with that is there is a 2" cooling pipe right infront of those 2 steel lines that I would have to remove and that makes me very uncomfortable. An additional minor note is that I can not be at the ignition and the engine at the same time.
Do you know of another way to bleed the air out of those steel lines going to the cylinders? Do I have to invent a tool which can get in behind that hose to remove those lines? (Even if I get behind it, there will be no room to turn the wrench.) Allen
Hi Steve, Yes I did use the lever but I think it only pushed the fuel as far as the filter & bleed screw. I don't think it pushes it as far as the injectors. I have the manual and it says to take the injector lines off and simutaneously turn the engine over. The problem with that is there is a 2" cooling pipe right infront of those 2 steel lines that I would have to remove and that makes me very uncomfortable. An additional minor note is that I can not be at the ignition and the engine at the same time.
Do you know of another way to bleed the air out of those steel lines going to the cylinders? Do I have to invent a tool which can get in behind that hose to remove those lines? (Even if I get behind it, there will be no room to turn the wrench.) Allengot to be another way
What if you opened the decompression lever and cranked the engine for a while? Maybe that would work. I would crank it in short bursts to keep the starter from overheating, even though there's no compression load.
What if you opened the decompression lever and cranked the engine for a while? Maybe that would work. I would crank it in short bursts to keep the starter from overheating, even though there's no compression load.
Been there
Tried that....several times! It's not even close to catching. I am convinced there is air in those injector lines. Moral of the story is never let a diesel tank go dry!
Tried that....several times! It's not even close to catching. I am convinced there is air in those injector lines. Moral of the story is never let a diesel tank go dry!
Diesel Cranking
Allen, Don't forget during all that crankng that you are pumping water into the exhaust system as the raw water pump turns. If the engine doesn't start and there is no exhaust from the engine to blow the water out the stern pipe the muffler fills with water. When the exhaust system/muffler gets full, the engine won't start. Depending on the amount of cranking you did, you might need to drain the exhaust, then try to start. Good luck Les
Allen, Don't forget during all that crankng that you are pumping water into the exhaust system as the raw water pump turns. If the engine doesn't start and there is no exhaust from the engine to blow the water out the stern pipe the muffler fills with water. When the exhaust system/muffler gets full, the engine won't start. Depending on the amount of cranking you did, you might need to drain the exhaust, then try to start. Good luck Les
Steps to follow
You don't have to disconnect the lines, but just loosen them at the injector enough to let air pass out. Start with the one FURTHEST down the line and crank the engine. It will eventually start and run rough. Keep a rag near it because it will squirt from the pressure. While it's running, tighten the line and it will smooth out. While it's running, move to the next injector and loosen the line to bleed any air out there (there should be none) and then tighten. Again, start furthest down the line. Crank to start. Tighten the line while running. Move back to the next injector. Good Luck.
You don't have to disconnect the lines, but just loosen them at the injector enough to let air pass out. Start with the one FURTHEST down the line and crank the engine. It will eventually start and run rough. Keep a rag near it because it will squirt from the pressure. While it's running, tighten the line and it will smooth out. While it's running, move to the next injector and loosen the line to bleed any air out there (there should be none) and then tighten. Again, start furthest down the line. Crank to start. Tighten the line while running. Move back to the next injector. Good Luck.
air in fuel line
try bleeding the injector pump first there in a bleeder valve just below the lines from the pump to the injectors also shut off the thur hull for raw water until you get the engine started that way you don't have to worry about the system filling with water.Don't forget to turn it back open!when you bleed the injector pump this should be enough to start the engine let in run at a high idle [1200rpm]for about five mimutes a this will clear all the air out of the system good luck!
try bleeding the injector pump first there in a bleeder valve just below the lines from the pump to the injectors also shut off the thur hull for raw water until you get the engine started that way you don't have to worry about the system filling with water.Don't forget to turn it back open!when you bleed the injector pump this should be enough to start the engine let in run at a high idle [1200rpm]for about five mimutes a this will clear all the air out of the system good luck!
Bleeding
Thought it might have been mentioned by now but you may wish to install a squeeze pump, like found on an outboard motor fuel tank, between the fuel tank and first filter/water separator. It is very easy to use and has more umph! than the priming pump. Makes bleeding a lot easier
Thought it might have been mentioned by now but you may wish to install a squeeze pump, like found on an outboard motor fuel tank, between the fuel tank and first filter/water separator. It is very easy to use and has more umph! than the priming pump. Makes bleeding a lot easier
Got It!
It starts! Air was trapped between the fuel filter and the high pressure pump. Thats why it squirted out the bleed valve over the filter but not at the end of the line as Paul had suggested to check.(Thats how I found out where the air bubble was). Thanks all for your help. I considered placing a squeeze bulb in the line before the seperator but am not convinced it can push the fuel all the way to the injectors. The priming pump will therefore do the same thing if I only have to make it to the filter. Allen
It starts! Air was trapped between the fuel filter and the high pressure pump. Thats why it squirted out the bleed valve over the filter but not at the end of the line as Paul had suggested to check.(Thats how I found out where the air bubble was). Thanks all for your help. I considered placing a squeeze bulb in the line before the seperator but am not convinced it can push the fuel all the way to the injectors. The priming pump will therefore do the same thing if I only have to make it to the filter. Allen
Education Pays!
Something that everyone can do (and it's worthwhile) is to take a one day basic maintenance course at a local diesel dealer. Some of the larger dealers do this. I took one at Hansen Bros. in Marblehead, MA (although the deal in Westerbekes) but they know all engines. And, basically, all diesels work the same. Mack Boring in Braintree, MA has the class also and I'm sure they have them anywhere boats are located. It costs about $100 for the day, but it has proven itself worthwhile many times. Good Luck!
Something that everyone can do (and it's worthwhile) is to take a one day basic maintenance course at a local diesel dealer. Some of the larger dealers do this. I took one at Hansen Bros. in Marblehead, MA (although the deal in Westerbekes) but they know all engines. And, basically, all diesels work the same. Mack Boring in Braintree, MA has the class also and I'm sure they have them anywhere boats are located. It costs about $100 for the day, but it has proven itself worthwhile many times. Good Luck!
Bleeding fuel line.
You must bleed the line beyond the filter. There are nuts on top of the injectors that you'll find if you continue to trace the fuel line past the filter. These need to be bled also. Be careful as these can be under pressure and fuel can penatrate your skin. Losen these nuts for each cylinder. Use the finger pump located before the filter to pump fuel until you see it come out of the losened nuts. Retighen nuts and try starting the engine.
You must bleed the line beyond the filter. There are nuts on top of the injectors that you'll find if you continue to trace the fuel line past the filter. These need to be bled also. Be careful as these can be under pressure and fuel can penatrate your skin. Losen these nuts for each cylinder. Use the finger pump located before the filter to pump fuel until you see it come out of the losened nuts. Retighen nuts and try starting the engine.
squeeze bulb
Allen, I installed a squeeze bulb and I think you are right about it not forcing fuel to the injectors, but boy, will it force fuel to the secondary filter bleeder screw! And it makes it much easier to refill the primary bowl if you drain it or change the filter element.
Allen, I installed a squeeze bulb and I think you are right about it not forcing fuel to the injectors, but boy, will it force fuel to the secondary filter bleeder screw! And it makes it much easier to refill the primary bowl if you drain it or change the filter element.
purging diesel line
In order to purge the fuel line of any diesel it is necessary to clear the line from the source of fuel to the combustion chanber. This includes any filters or pumps that may be in line. at the head of your engine are two fuel lines. One supplies fuel under pressure under presure to the cylinder the other returns it to the filter. It is nesessary to loosen the high pressure fuel feed to remove the air from the line while the primer pump is pumped. When fuel comes from the fitting tighten it. Then try to start the engine. A good idea is to get an engine manual. Try http://www.yanmar.com/frames45.htm. This should get you to a distributor in your area where thr manual can be ordered.
In order to purge the fuel line of any diesel it is necessary to clear the line from the source of fuel to the combustion chanber. This includes any filters or pumps that may be in line. at the head of your engine are two fuel lines. One supplies fuel under pressure under presure to the cylinder the other returns it to the filter. It is nesessary to loosen the high pressure fuel feed to remove the air from the line while the primer pump is pumped. When fuel comes from the fitting tighten it. Then try to start the engine. A good idea is to get an engine manual. Try http://www.yanmar.com/frames45.htm. This should get you to a distributor in your area where thr manual can be ordered.
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