Well the weather as warmed up enough to continue work on my 1979 H37-cutter project (almost 6 years in dry dock), I purchase the boat late last year and she is Ed Schenck' sister ship. Ed, thanks for the emails and info last year. I am planning to pull the mast in a few weeks for rewiring. Any advice or best procedure for removing the mast? I will be hiring the yard to do this, but since this is my first time pulling a mast, I would like to know what to expect and make sure they are doing the job properly. Also, should I lubricate the turnbuckles with penetrating oil several days in advance? Which kind ? Richard McDonald Raphsodie
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Five advices
1. mark the correct level of your turnbuckles with red tape so the yard know to restore the tension to those marks. 2. remove the pins in the turnbuckle, since the yard will charge you time for that. 3. when she's down, measure the heights and other measurements that you couldn't do before. will come in handy if you have to order new sails. 4. replace the bulb atop the mast and check the wiring for chafing. also check the sheeves for wear and tear. 5. trust the yard. you have no choice.
1. mark the correct level of your turnbuckles with red tape so the yard know to restore the tension to those marks. 2. remove the pins in the turnbuckle, since the yard will charge you time for that. 3. when she's down, measure the heights and other measurements that you couldn't do before. will come in handy if you have to order new sails. 4. replace the bulb atop the mast and check the wiring for chafing. also check the sheeves for wear and tear. 5. trust the yard. you have no choice.
Great "advices" Bill.
In addition I loosened all the turnbuckles and removed the cotter rings. All the yard had to do was a few turns by hand and pop the pins, after the mast was secure on the forklift. Be sure to have bolts removed, one at base and one at partners. Might have to wait for crane to support it to get them out. Draw an accurate picture of the wiring in the bilge then disconnect it. I taped the ends together and stuffed them up into the mast. Once horizontal: 1) Check the rigging carefully, maybe even with some dye on the fittings. Or replace? 2) Consider replacing 1/4" shrouds and mid-stay with 9/32", same as backstay. 3) Remove spreaders and check mounts, tighten bolts. 4) I added two exit plates(Rig-rite) and two halyards, one for drifter and one for topping lift. Topping lift adjuster can be emergency mainsail halyard. 5) Added marelon cleats for additional halyards. 6) Put a new combination anchor/running light on top, requires 3-wire cable instead of 2-wire. Also a Nexus wind transducer. 7) Ran all new wiring including VHF coax. Remember to support wire in the channel about every fifteen feet, it is heavy. 8) Some have added spreader deck lights. I find the decklight/steaming light to be adequate. 9) Considering HAM or SSB? Could add insulators to backstay. 10) Remove sheave spindles, clean and oil. The little stainless plates with a single screw let you remove those. See Rig-rite for replacement. 11) Chance to rebed chainplates because now you can remove the covers. Check them carefully, again dye is a good idea. 12) You could try to seal the inside of the mast, the wire channel, and the sail track. There are some tricks to that. Cleaned and waxed it, did not paint or even touch up all those scratches. That's all I can remember.
In addition I loosened all the turnbuckles and removed the cotter rings. All the yard had to do was a few turns by hand and pop the pins, after the mast was secure on the forklift. Be sure to have bolts removed, one at base and one at partners. Might have to wait for crane to support it to get them out. Draw an accurate picture of the wiring in the bilge then disconnect it. I taped the ends together and stuffed them up into the mast. Once horizontal: 1) Check the rigging carefully, maybe even with some dye on the fittings. Or replace? 2) Consider replacing 1/4" shrouds and mid-stay with 9/32", same as backstay. 3) Remove spreaders and check mounts, tighten bolts. 4) I added two exit plates(Rig-rite) and two halyards, one for drifter and one for topping lift. Topping lift adjuster can be emergency mainsail halyard. 5) Added marelon cleats for additional halyards. 6) Put a new combination anchor/running light on top, requires 3-wire cable instead of 2-wire. Also a Nexus wind transducer. 7) Ran all new wiring including VHF coax. Remember to support wire in the channel about every fifteen feet, it is heavy. 8) Some have added spreader deck lights. I find the decklight/steaming light to be adequate. 9) Considering HAM or SSB? Could add insulators to backstay. 10) Remove sheave spindles, clean and oil. The little stainless plates with a single screw let you remove those. See Rig-rite for replacement. 11) Chance to rebed chainplates because now you can remove the covers. Check them carefully, again dye is a good idea. 12) You could try to seal the inside of the mast, the wire channel, and the sail track. There are some tricks to that. Cleaned and waxed it, did not paint or even touch up all those scratches. That's all I can remember.
Mast pulling suggestions
Both Bill and Ed covered most everything. My mast is out right now. I had to remove the gooseneck fitting to take out the cable track covers (3 pieces). Make sure you go back with an insulating coating, such as locktite, to prevent further corrosion between the stainless hardware and the aluminum mast. Also, I used a black indelible marker to mark the threads on my turnbuckles instead of tape. Good Luck!
Both Bill and Ed covered most everything. My mast is out right now. I had to remove the gooseneck fitting to take out the cable track covers (3 pieces). Make sure you go back with an insulating coating, such as locktite, to prevent further corrosion between the stainless hardware and the aluminum mast. Also, I used a black indelible marker to mark the threads on my turnbuckles instead of tape. Good Luck!
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