Propshaft removal

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Andrew Brayshaw

I need to remove the propshaft on my 34 and from the archives I understand either the rudder or the strut has to be removed also. Which is the easiest way to go. It has to come off as I want it checked to make sure its straight. Any advice would be welcome before I get stuck in. Many thanks Andrew PS I've now sailed 8000 miles since April last year in my Hunter 34 calling at Bermuda, Azores, Portugal, Spain, France,Italy, Sicily,Sardinia and the Greek Isles and I would still have bought the same boat for the journey if given the choice again.
 
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Fred Ficarra

I've pulled mine twice and replaced it once,

and never pulled the rudder or strut on my '86 h34. The hardest part is getting the coupling off the end. I used a home made press. You can also use a little heat. Of course the shaft won't go past the rudder unless you pull the prop hub off. Then just force the shaft sideways to deflect the strut a little, and out it comes. Also, if you still have the bronze shaft, I recommend you replace it with monel. Mine was $140.00 in '94. Then you can quit worring about it bending. My bronze shaft had bent from a halyard over the side. Don't ask. (Drunks at a party while I was off for a dinghy ride.)
 
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Allen

Another point of view....

Just in case you haven't considered this alternative....not long ago I (and my mechanic) pulled the shaft on my H35. We moved the engine and pulled the shaft out the front. Yeah, maybe it sounds like doing things the hard way, but it was really sorta easy. Rigging a 4x4 over the hatch with a hoist made the engine slide right out of the compartment. We were able to replace a broken motor mount and remove all the corrosion that was beginning to build. The whole job only took one day. I understand that removing the rudder can be quite a job in itself. Anyway, I just wanted you to know that there is another way besides pulling the rudder and/or strut. Good luck.
 
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Yves Langlois

If on the hard.

If your boat is out of the water, the easiest way is to remove the stut and at the same time check/change the cutlass bearing. Yves S/V OPIUM
 
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Alan

Shaft coupling

..is the hardest part of the job, but it doesn't have to be. The first year I had my boat I pulled the coupling off to install a dripless shaft seal while the boat was still "new". When reassembling I used a special copper-based grease made by a German company called Wurth. Ever since I have been able to remove the coupling with the greatest of ease. This grease is amazing and has endless uses on my boat. Anytime I unbolt anything it is reassembled with this grease. Best winch grease also!!
 
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Debra B

Remove Cutlass Bearing?

I have a 37, but the design is similar. You don't need to drop the rudder on a 37 if you can get the cutlass bearing out. The extra 1/4 inch on the radius of the outside of the bearing (as opposed to the shaft) makes it possible to swing the shaft just past the rudder. I can't guarantee this will work on a 34, but it works fine on the 37. I just had my drive shaft replaced last week.
 
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Daryl

I Pulled the Shaft

I pulled the shaft one of the time my rudder needed replacement and did the bearing. Did you do extensive retrofits to you vessel before the trip? (or do you have more balls than brain?)
 
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Andrew Brayshaw

Thanks for replies

Thanks for all your responses. I managed to remove the shaft with the rudder and strut in place no problem. In response to Daryls questions I have made a few alterations to my boat to make long passages a little easier and safer but it is still a Hunter 34 which equipped and sailed properly will take you anywhere.Yes you do need balls and brains for offshore sailing.You also need to be resourseful,confident,physically fit and be able to stay calm, confident and think clearly when faced with difficult and possibly dangerous situations.If you lack in any then you are right no to venture offshore. Thanks for the useful advice.
 
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