We are new to sailig and are tring to learn the basics as hard as we can. Last week we experimented with the reefing syatem on the main. We installed reef ties in the sail.. complete with figure eights... and set sail for where ever. Our 35.5 has two reef lines lead back to the cockpit. When we were ready to reef we loosened the main halyard and proceeded to pull in on the lower reef line. We experienced some drag and had to clear the line leading from the end of the boom to the reef point on the main. this was not easy. I wasn't sure if I was going to tear the sail or not. I found the reefing line(s) seemed to be pulling in the luff of the sail at a different rate than the leach end of the sail( Hope I got that right). I had to go up on deck to correct the tention and pull the sail down by hand untill all seemed ok. Can anyone explain the correct procedure for reefing the main and how the line(s) of the reefing system should work. Many thanks in advance and Happy Holidays. Rob and DJ s/v You Be U
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Bill Howitt
Take the load off!
The first rule for reefing is take the load off the sail! Luff up. Also be sure that your main sheet isn't tight. Then, ease out the halyard while winching in the reef line. Don't worry about them being a little uneven. They'll even out at the end even if the luff or the leach comes up tight before the other. Then re-tension the main halyard. Don't bother with tying it up to make it look pretty. A little sail flopping around doesn't hurt performance and you can accidently rip the sail if you forget to untie when you go to shake out the reefs. On my 35.5 "Sweet Baboo" I can carry the full main up to about 23 knots apparent before the first reef. But, it never hurts to reef a little early for the comfort of your crew! Have fun. The 35.5 is a great boat.
The first rule for reefing is take the load off the sail! Luff up. Also be sure that your main sheet isn't tight. Then, ease out the halyard while winching in the reef line. Don't worry about them being a little uneven. They'll even out at the end even if the luff or the leach comes up tight before the other. Then re-tension the main halyard. Don't bother with tying it up to make it look pretty. A little sail flopping around doesn't hurt performance and you can accidently rip the sail if you forget to untie when you go to shake out the reefs. On my 35.5 "Sweet Baboo" I can carry the full main up to about 23 knots apparent before the first reef. But, it never hurts to reef a little early for the comfort of your crew! Have fun. The 35.5 is a great boat.
J
Jay Hill
Reef Tuning..
As Bill said, it makes little difference if the luff reef point/cringle and the leech reef point/cringle are even (parallel with the boom) if you are a casual cruiser and are not worried about the shape of the sail, etc. Something you can do to get them even, however, without going on deck, is stop the luff from pulling down when you get it where it is supposed to be. This can be done by closing the rope clutch on the main halyard as soon as the luff reef cringle is properly positioned. This allows all the tension applied to the reef line to be applied to the leech reef cringle. As Bill mentioned, tying up the sail is not critical on a single reef. If you do tie up the sail, be sure to keep the gaskets a little loose. Gaskets are NOT supposed to improve sail shape by creating a new foot; they are merely there to keep the extra sail material cleaned up and out of the way. If your sail has a double reef, you will almost certainly have to tie it up. On my rig (H31) under double reef, enough sail is left over to create a major flapping safety hazard. Jay
As Bill said, it makes little difference if the luff reef point/cringle and the leech reef point/cringle are even (parallel with the boom) if you are a casual cruiser and are not worried about the shape of the sail, etc. Something you can do to get them even, however, without going on deck, is stop the luff from pulling down when you get it where it is supposed to be. This can be done by closing the rope clutch on the main halyard as soon as the luff reef cringle is properly positioned. This allows all the tension applied to the reef line to be applied to the leech reef cringle. As Bill mentioned, tying up the sail is not critical on a single reef. If you do tie up the sail, be sure to keep the gaskets a little loose. Gaskets are NOT supposed to improve sail shape by creating a new foot; they are merely there to keep the extra sail material cleaned up and out of the way. If your sail has a double reef, you will almost certainly have to tie it up. On my rig (H31) under double reef, enough sail is left over to create a major flapping safety hazard. Jay
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Chuck Wolfe
Reefing Procedure by a Klutz
This is what I did. First- At the dock I raise the main and pull the reefing line(s) (I have had both double and single line reefing systems). When all looks perfect I take an indelible pen and mark the reefing line(s) and the halyard where it comes into the locking camcleat. Then when I want to reef, no problem. I drop the mail to take the tension off and clamp the halyard where I have had it marked. Then I pull the reefing line(s) through their respective camcleat(s) and winch them to where the indelible mark is in the appropriate location. Works like a charm for me and I have never had trouble. Actually, my problem usually is shaking the reef out on the single line reefing system. That usually only happens with a few *&^%*())*&$#%&*(*(* out of earshot of my spouse. They sure don't pull through the blocks in the boom with great ease. I have to go to the mast and pull straight back from there. I'm thinking of going back to the double reefing lines for my first reef and typing the second reef in manually if I ever have to do it. Any suggestions from someone else? Chuckwolfe@mail.com
This is what I did. First- At the dock I raise the main and pull the reefing line(s) (I have had both double and single line reefing systems). When all looks perfect I take an indelible pen and mark the reefing line(s) and the halyard where it comes into the locking camcleat. Then when I want to reef, no problem. I drop the mail to take the tension off and clamp the halyard where I have had it marked. Then I pull the reefing line(s) through their respective camcleat(s) and winch them to where the indelible mark is in the appropriate location. Works like a charm for me and I have never had trouble. Actually, my problem usually is shaking the reef out on the single line reefing system. That usually only happens with a few *&^%*())*&$#%&*(*(* out of earshot of my spouse. They sure don't pull through the blocks in the boom with great ease. I have to go to the mast and pull straight back from there. I'm thinking of going back to the double reefing lines for my first reef and typing the second reef in manually if I ever have to do it. Any suggestions from someone else? Chuckwolfe@mail.com
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Ron Hughes
Re-print of exceptional advice on reefing
Hunter Owners Web Forum Archives Forum Archive Article Ask An OwnerArchive Overview of Easy Mainsail Reefing Methods (long) Submitted by Henk Meuzelaar on 10/27 at 04:45AM regarding General_interest. The recent discussions on mainsail furling systems create the impression that reefing the mainsail when the wind pipes up is difficult, heavy work that many of us are a little intimidated by. The worst scenario is where the vessel is brought almost completely head to wind in order to take the pressure of the mainsail. This will cause apparent wind speed to increase sharply, main and jib to flap wildly and loudly, boatspeed to drop to zero, the helm to respond no longer and the vessel to flop around in the waves. By now, every passenger and novice crew member on board is starting to get scared...... Therefore, next time the skipper decides to furl the jib first (so it can't flap itself to pieces) and to start the Yanmar. Now there is less pandemonium and some boatspeed is maintained and, thus, helm control. Then he reefs the sail, falls off, sets the jib again and stops the engine. However, this is a fair amount of work and requires getting the off-watch on deck to man the helm, unless he has a really good autopilot or windvane. Also, turning directly into wind and waves immediately increases the apparent windspeed in the cockpit and may be accompanied by fairly strong pitching and slamming. There must be an easier way, right? Sure, and buying a furling main can be one of these ways. However, it is by no means the only way to reefing heaven (plus you've got to be rich, which, according to The Book makes your chances of arriving there pretty slim to start with......). So, here are my favorite reefing techniques: (1) Reefing while "HOVE TO" (wonderful if you are singlehanding or things got a bit out of control or you want to reassure the passengers or it was getting time for lunch anyhow). Just heave to on jib and rudder and release mainsheet till nearly all of the pressure is off the mainsail. Then reef at your leisure. Meanwhile, peace and serenity (or perhaps sanity) have returned on board; passengers who were getting a bit scared are recovering their wits and you are being toasted as an accomplished old salt. But don't you need to tack through the wind in order to heave to? No, all you have to do is to come up to a broad reach, winch the clew of the jib (or, preferably, the staysail) to windward, release the mainsheet (and/or the traveler) and -- as the boat loses speed and the bow starts to blow off - fully counter the rudder. It's THAT simple; no sails to furl, no engine to start, no extra hands on deck. Then, when you are ready to go again, just pull in the mainsheet to gather some speed, slowly release the rudder so you don't tack and let the clew of the jib slip back to leeward. (2) Reefing while CLOSE-HAULED (great if conditions allow you to be really close-hauled, e.g. when already pinching and/or motorsailing). Steer as close to the wind as you can without losing too much speed while sheeting the jib (or, better, the staysail) in tightly and, if necessary, using the engine (i.e. motorsailing). Then just let go of the mainsheet (and traveler) till you see the main starting to luff (basically, you are bringing only the mainsail and the boom head to wind, without the jib and the rest of the boat having to follow suit). Then reef, pull the mainsheet back in and resume sailing. This method requires a competent helmsman, autopilot or windvane but allows you to keep making headway during the reefing procedure. (3) Reefing while PINCHING (this time-honored approach is usually the best method if "reefer" and helmsman make a good team). Come up to a broad reach only (to maintain good boat speed) while sheeting the jib in too tight (i.e. for close-hauled sailing) and the main too loose (i.e. for a beam reach). When the 'reefer' is ready to ease the main halyard the helmsman heads up sharply till the main starts to luff and reefing can start. The helmsman has to watch out for two things: (a) not to tack; and (b) not too lose too much speed (and thus helm control). If either problem occurs before the helmsman was able to bear off again the engine will generally need to be started to regain control of the bow. If reefing is not yet completed (e.g. reef line and/or main halyard still need to be tightened further) a second, or even a third pinch may be needed. (4) Reefing while RUNNING OFF (this is often the preferred method for smaller vessels with low friction running rigging or for medium-sized vessels with super-duper batcars and is likely to be your fallback method on most any vessel if you are suddenly overpowered by a violent gust). If you have high friction running rigging and mast slides, particularly with a large, fully battened mainsail, you will generally find it difficult or impossible to reef while running unless you more or less center the boom. If you are able to run DDW (dead down wind; e.g. with wing-on-wing jib and staysail) you can fully center the boom with double preventers (the mainsheet needs to remain loose enough to prevent the boom from being pulled down too far; unless you can use the topping lift to keep the boom up). If you are not DDW you can try to center the boom relative to the wind, rather than to the vessel, in order to take most of the pressure off the main. While reefing you should try to release the main halyard bit by bit while taking up on the reefline, thereby preventing the wind from getting hold of a large slab of loose mainsail. It may be advisable to keep boatspeed up (and thus apparent wind speed down) with the help of jib and/or engine. The helmsperson needs to watch out keenly for broaches, particularly as long as the main is centered and not yet reduced to the proper size for the conditions you are in. Hope this is of some use to newby sailors in this forum. Flying Dutchman It has been a great help to me, as I hope it is to you!
Hunter Owners Web Forum Archives Forum Archive Article Ask An OwnerArchive Overview of Easy Mainsail Reefing Methods (long) Submitted by Henk Meuzelaar on 10/27 at 04:45AM regarding General_interest. The recent discussions on mainsail furling systems create the impression that reefing the mainsail when the wind pipes up is difficult, heavy work that many of us are a little intimidated by. The worst scenario is where the vessel is brought almost completely head to wind in order to take the pressure of the mainsail. This will cause apparent wind speed to increase sharply, main and jib to flap wildly and loudly, boatspeed to drop to zero, the helm to respond no longer and the vessel to flop around in the waves. By now, every passenger and novice crew member on board is starting to get scared...... Therefore, next time the skipper decides to furl the jib first (so it can't flap itself to pieces) and to start the Yanmar. Now there is less pandemonium and some boatspeed is maintained and, thus, helm control. Then he reefs the sail, falls off, sets the jib again and stops the engine. However, this is a fair amount of work and requires getting the off-watch on deck to man the helm, unless he has a really good autopilot or windvane. Also, turning directly into wind and waves immediately increases the apparent windspeed in the cockpit and may be accompanied by fairly strong pitching and slamming. There must be an easier way, right? Sure, and buying a furling main can be one of these ways. However, it is by no means the only way to reefing heaven (plus you've got to be rich, which, according to The Book makes your chances of arriving there pretty slim to start with......). So, here are my favorite reefing techniques: (1) Reefing while "HOVE TO" (wonderful if you are singlehanding or things got a bit out of control or you want to reassure the passengers or it was getting time for lunch anyhow). Just heave to on jib and rudder and release mainsheet till nearly all of the pressure is off the mainsail. Then reef at your leisure. Meanwhile, peace and serenity (or perhaps sanity) have returned on board; passengers who were getting a bit scared are recovering their wits and you are being toasted as an accomplished old salt. But don't you need to tack through the wind in order to heave to? No, all you have to do is to come up to a broad reach, winch the clew of the jib (or, preferably, the staysail) to windward, release the mainsheet (and/or the traveler) and -- as the boat loses speed and the bow starts to blow off - fully counter the rudder. It's THAT simple; no sails to furl, no engine to start, no extra hands on deck. Then, when you are ready to go again, just pull in the mainsheet to gather some speed, slowly release the rudder so you don't tack and let the clew of the jib slip back to leeward. (2) Reefing while CLOSE-HAULED (great if conditions allow you to be really close-hauled, e.g. when already pinching and/or motorsailing). Steer as close to the wind as you can without losing too much speed while sheeting the jib (or, better, the staysail) in tightly and, if necessary, using the engine (i.e. motorsailing). Then just let go of the mainsheet (and traveler) till you see the main starting to luff (basically, you are bringing only the mainsail and the boom head to wind, without the jib and the rest of the boat having to follow suit). Then reef, pull the mainsheet back in and resume sailing. This method requires a competent helmsman, autopilot or windvane but allows you to keep making headway during the reefing procedure. (3) Reefing while PINCHING (this time-honored approach is usually the best method if "reefer" and helmsman make a good team). Come up to a broad reach only (to maintain good boat speed) while sheeting the jib in too tight (i.e. for close-hauled sailing) and the main too loose (i.e. for a beam reach). When the 'reefer' is ready to ease the main halyard the helmsman heads up sharply till the main starts to luff and reefing can start. The helmsman has to watch out for two things: (a) not to tack; and (b) not too lose too much speed (and thus helm control). If either problem occurs before the helmsman was able to bear off again the engine will generally need to be started to regain control of the bow. If reefing is not yet completed (e.g. reef line and/or main halyard still need to be tightened further) a second, or even a third pinch may be needed. (4) Reefing while RUNNING OFF (this is often the preferred method for smaller vessels with low friction running rigging or for medium-sized vessels with super-duper batcars and is likely to be your fallback method on most any vessel if you are suddenly overpowered by a violent gust). If you have high friction running rigging and mast slides, particularly with a large, fully battened mainsail, you will generally find it difficult or impossible to reef while running unless you more or less center the boom. If you are able to run DDW (dead down wind; e.g. with wing-on-wing jib and staysail) you can fully center the boom with double preventers (the mainsheet needs to remain loose enough to prevent the boom from being pulled down too far; unless you can use the topping lift to keep the boom up). If you are not DDW you can try to center the boom relative to the wind, rather than to the vessel, in order to take most of the pressure off the main. While reefing you should try to release the main halyard bit by bit while taking up on the reefline, thereby preventing the wind from getting hold of a large slab of loose mainsail. It may be advisable to keep boatspeed up (and thus apparent wind speed down) with the help of jib and/or engine. The helmsperson needs to watch out keenly for broaches, particularly as long as the main is centered and not yet reduced to the proper size for the conditions you are in. Hope this is of some use to newby sailors in this forum. Flying Dutchman It has been a great help to me, as I hope it is to you!
J
Jay Hill
For Chuck's Question...
Chuck, I didn't like the resistance of in-boom reefing lines either, espcially with the cleat at the front of the boom. I have mounted all reefing lines on the starboard (exterior) side of the boom and use cheek and swivel blocks to allow a single line for single reef and a single line for double reef. Both are led to the cockpit and marked, as is the halyard, for proper length/cleat positions and pass through rope clutches. Works great for me; I can reef singlehanded in any conditions from the cockpit. Jay
Chuck, I didn't like the resistance of in-boom reefing lines either, espcially with the cleat at the front of the boom. I have mounted all reefing lines on the starboard (exterior) side of the boom and use cheek and swivel blocks to allow a single line for single reef and a single line for double reef. Both are led to the cockpit and marked, as is the halyard, for proper length/cleat positions and pass through rope clutches. Works great for me; I can reef singlehanded in any conditions from the cockpit. Jay
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