At this time of year, we are all into the cleaning, waxing, and buffing of our bodies for the summer bathing suit season, so I was wondering about our sailboats - Any suggestions on getting our decks and cockpits looking, "Glossy"? I know about the cleaning, and I'm good on the waxing for the hull, but should one be waxing the deck and the cockpit? My boat has some oxidation, and it looks nowhere nice as the hull. I have molded in non-skid, so it wouldn't make sense to wax that - it would just make it more slippery, which would defeat the purpose. Would you wax the cockpit? What do you guys think? After I clean it, there still is a very Flat appearance, and with the summer season coming up, I want my boat to be as Glossy and buff as this 46 yr old body!
Proper Cockpit and Deck cleaning
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Last year I wet sanded much of the smooth gelcoat on the deck. It is surprisingly resilient.
Wet sand, polish, wax, would be the correct order of activities if you are serious about it. You could just use a gelcoat polishing compound if you have mild oxidation, but if its pitting and chalky, then probably wet sand. I used 1200 grit, being worried about cutting through too much of the gelcoat on the first attempt, but experts probably use something that is more corse. Mine is not "shiny", but it's not leaving white marks on my kid's swim trunks anymore, which was the goal.
Wet sand, polish, wax, would be the correct order of activities if you are serious about it. You could just use a gelcoat polishing compound if you have mild oxidation, but if its pitting and chalky, then probably wet sand. I used 1200 grit, being worried about cutting through too much of the gelcoat on the first attempt, but experts probably use something that is more corse. Mine is not "shiny", but it's not leaving white marks on my kid's swim trunks anymore, which was the goal.
Well, one has to take my advice with a grain of salt, because we all know I'm a bit over the top. My girlfriend says OCD... Anyway, I have wet sanded, compounded, polished, and waxed every bit of smooth gelcoat I can get to, including all around the cockpit, the cabin top, the mast step, the forward hatch surround, and even the little bit of smooth gelcoat around the stemhead fitting. (I couldn't leave it chalky, it was bugging me.)
Adjacent non-skid areas have a bit of gloss to them as a result of the buffing process. I have heard that some people buff the non-skid with thinned out compound. I don't want to do this, because I think it will wear some of the height of the diamond nubs that make up the non-skid.
Last year for my Harpoon, I used some Star-brite non-skid cleaner, and then I put Woody Wax on it. Woody Wax is a thin, spray on type stuff not unlike Armor All in appearance. It is supposed to protect the fiberglass, and not be slippery once it's applied properly. I found that a little bit goes a very long way, it doesn't last very long, and water doesn't bead up on it. However, it really did seem to keep the non-skid more clean, and made it easier to wash when it needed it. If you search around on the interwebs, you'll see many fishermen swear by it, that fish blood just washes right off with a hose.
But you'll also find an equal amount of glowing reviews for Aurora Sure Step. This is another protectant designed for non-skid, that is supposed to increase the grip when wet. I really wanted to use the Sure Step on the O'day, but if you review their web site, they recommend $15 of Boat Clean Plus to remove wax, oil, and contaminants, followed by $15 of Boat Scrub with a stiff bristle brush, and finally $27 of the Sure Step protectant. Unfortunately, after spending $100 on 2 cans of Cetol and a quart of bottom paint, I decided to just make due with the Woody Wax I already have.
Mind you, I don't expect I'll ever run out of Woody Wax. Application consists of 2 squirts of WW on a soft bristle brush, rubbed all over the wet non-skid, allowed to dry, then hosed off and polished with a cloth.
Another way to look at non-skid, you kinda want it to be flat, otherwise, it'll have too much glare...
Brian
Adjacent non-skid areas have a bit of gloss to them as a result of the buffing process. I have heard that some people buff the non-skid with thinned out compound. I don't want to do this, because I think it will wear some of the height of the diamond nubs that make up the non-skid.
Last year for my Harpoon, I used some Star-brite non-skid cleaner, and then I put Woody Wax on it. Woody Wax is a thin, spray on type stuff not unlike Armor All in appearance. It is supposed to protect the fiberglass, and not be slippery once it's applied properly. I found that a little bit goes a very long way, it doesn't last very long, and water doesn't bead up on it. However, it really did seem to keep the non-skid more clean, and made it easier to wash when it needed it. If you search around on the interwebs, you'll see many fishermen swear by it, that fish blood just washes right off with a hose.
But you'll also find an equal amount of glowing reviews for Aurora Sure Step. This is another protectant designed for non-skid, that is supposed to increase the grip when wet. I really wanted to use the Sure Step on the O'day, but if you review their web site, they recommend $15 of Boat Clean Plus to remove wax, oil, and contaminants, followed by $15 of Boat Scrub with a stiff bristle brush, and finally $27 of the Sure Step protectant. Unfortunately, after spending $100 on 2 cans of Cetol and a quart of bottom paint, I decided to just make due with the Woody Wax I already have.
Mind you, I don't expect I'll ever run out of Woody Wax. Application consists of 2 squirts of WW on a soft bristle brush, rubbed all over the wet non-skid, allowed to dry, then hosed off and polished with a cloth.
Another way to look at non-skid, you kinda want it to be flat, otherwise, it'll have too much glare...
Brian
What kind of tools or pads did you use for the wet sanding and buffing? Some of those areas are tight and hard to get at while staying on the smooth surfaces and not hitting the textured non skid
Canon, I just followed Maine Sail's tutorial, and used 1000 grit wet/dry paper by hand, and the Makita polisher (so much nicer than the cheapy Harbor Freight...) and his recommended 3M wool pads.
I have not yet washed the drips, flings, and over-polish compound off OD the non-skid areas... I had to finish Cetol-ing the teak toe rails first.
I expect I have some glossy perimeters of non-skid areas. I didn't really want to worry too much about it, so I guess I'll take my knocks on that. If you are really concerned about the non-skid, you could probably tape it off before compound and polish phase, with the buffer... I now swear by green Frog Tape brand tape. Much better than 3M blue tape.
Hope this helps,
Brian
I have not yet washed the drips, flings, and over-polish compound off OD the non-skid areas... I had to finish Cetol-ing the teak toe rails first.
I expect I have some glossy perimeters of non-skid areas. I didn't really want to worry too much about it, so I guess I'll take my knocks on that. If you are really concerned about the non-skid, you could probably tape it off before compound and polish phase, with the buffer... I now swear by green Frog Tape brand tape. Much better than 3M blue tape.
Hope this helps,
Brian
Around the detail areas I use a HF cheap imitation of my Multimate. I use Costco's yellow microfiber rags. They are held in place with the velcro hooks on the sanding pad. Makes for fast work and very little splatter.
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