My propeller shaft disconnected from the coupling with the transmission shaft and damaged the end of the propeller shaft. It looks like I need to replace the propeller shaft. Has any done this on the Hunter 33? Does it require (total or partial) removal of the rudder? If so, can the rudder be removed with the boat in the standard blocking position, or do you need to "dig a hole" under the rudder to get it down? (Hope not, the yard is asphalt) Is there any literature that addresses this operation? I'm trying to decide whether I should tackle the problem or let the yard handle it. Any help is greatly appreciated. Bill
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On an H34 ......
you have several options. One can remove the rudder, lift up the motor or remove the strut. Rudder removal required digging a hole unless you arrange to drop it while you're in the travel lift. The last option seems to be the easiest. When you get near the lift disconnect the steering quadrant and leave one final bolt holding the rudder. With minimal yard assistance and time drop the rudder before the boat is blocked. I suspect the 33 is similiar
you have several options. One can remove the rudder, lift up the motor or remove the strut. Rudder removal required digging a hole unless you arrange to drop it while you're in the travel lift. The last option seems to be the easiest. When you get near the lift disconnect the steering quadrant and leave one final bolt holding the rudder. With minimal yard assistance and time drop the rudder before the boat is blocked. I suspect the 33 is similiar
Baker Patented Shaft Removal Process
Bill. I've removed the prop shaft on my '81 H33 a couple times now. My brother removed the shaft on his '80 H36 also. Different approaches. Normally the rudder is in the way. My brother had his boat in his backyard, dug a hole under the rudder (he has a backhoe) and lowered the rudder into the hole, then pulled the shaft. Easy. If you're yard has a travel lift you can drop the rudder the same way, if you want to pay for the lift, and if they're game. I took a different approach. The shaft strut was a little loose anyway, turns out it was bent probably by a lobster pot. So I removed the strut which made removing the shaft a breeze. Here's how: 1) Remove propeller (replaced with three bladed Max-Prop from my last boat). Support end of shaft on a sawhorse. 2) Remove shaft coupling (sounds like you've already done that 3) The strut is held in by two 3/8" phillips headed S/S bolts that are way too long, and bedded so tight I couldn't loosen them from the outside with a #4 phillips screwdriver bit in a 3/8 socket wrench. So try this: Remove the panel at the end of the quarter berth, gather your tools and crawl in far enough to see where the strut bolts come through, the forward bolt is just under the rear edge of the shelf holding the fuel tank. a) the bolts are too long for even a deep socket to fit over the nut, and theres no room to turn a wrench. So I developed this technique. b) place a box end wrench (9/16 I think) over the nut. It can't spin due to the confined space. c) using a 3/8" coupling nut (that's a nut about 2" long for connecting threaded rod together) with a 3/8 x 1" bolt threaded into the upper end, I spun it down over the mounting bolt. A 9/16 deep socket, with 6" extention and socket wrench can now fit over the coupling nut and swing. As I tighten down on the coupling nut, the 1" bolt stops the coupling nut from going down the mounting bolt and so the bolt starts to back out. When the coupling nut bottomed out, I replaced the 1" bolt with a 1 1/4" bolt and continued. d) Back under the boat again I still couldn't turn the bolts with a phillips bit, I grabbed their heads in a vice grip and backed them out the last 1/2". The original strut bolts were 3/8 x 3 1/2 inches, I replaced them with 3/8 x 2" bolts that a deep socket could fit over easily. Installation was much simpler. 4) The strut then was easy to pull off, held in only by old bedding compound. Shaft and strut slide out together. When I replaced my strut each time (another story) I dry fitted everything, checked alignment of shaft, strut, and motor; then bedded the strut in 3M's 4200. Other folk will recommend other bedding compounds, that's just what I use. 5) Now's a good time to replace your packing nut with a Packless Shaft Seal, replace your cutless bearing, check motor alignment and all those other little things that will make you feel good about your boat. It's not that big a project. Only took me a week to figure out the coupling nut idea, then the whole thing came apart in about 45 minutes. I usually take digital photo's of all my projects, I have photos of the strut being aligned, but I didn't take any of the strut bolts from the inside. If you need photo's though, I go to the boat 3-4 times a week. Just let me know
Bill. I've removed the prop shaft on my '81 H33 a couple times now. My brother removed the shaft on his '80 H36 also. Different approaches. Normally the rudder is in the way. My brother had his boat in his backyard, dug a hole under the rudder (he has a backhoe) and lowered the rudder into the hole, then pulled the shaft. Easy. If you're yard has a travel lift you can drop the rudder the same way, if you want to pay for the lift, and if they're game. I took a different approach. The shaft strut was a little loose anyway, turns out it was bent probably by a lobster pot. So I removed the strut which made removing the shaft a breeze. Here's how: 1) Remove propeller (replaced with three bladed Max-Prop from my last boat). Support end of shaft on a sawhorse. 2) Remove shaft coupling (sounds like you've already done that 3) The strut is held in by two 3/8" phillips headed S/S bolts that are way too long, and bedded so tight I couldn't loosen them from the outside with a #4 phillips screwdriver bit in a 3/8 socket wrench. So try this: Remove the panel at the end of the quarter berth, gather your tools and crawl in far enough to see where the strut bolts come through, the forward bolt is just under the rear edge of the shelf holding the fuel tank. a) the bolts are too long for even a deep socket to fit over the nut, and theres no room to turn a wrench. So I developed this technique. b) place a box end wrench (9/16 I think) over the nut. It can't spin due to the confined space. c) using a 3/8" coupling nut (that's a nut about 2" long for connecting threaded rod together) with a 3/8 x 1" bolt threaded into the upper end, I spun it down over the mounting bolt. A 9/16 deep socket, with 6" extention and socket wrench can now fit over the coupling nut and swing. As I tighten down on the coupling nut, the 1" bolt stops the coupling nut from going down the mounting bolt and so the bolt starts to back out. When the coupling nut bottomed out, I replaced the 1" bolt with a 1 1/4" bolt and continued. d) Back under the boat again I still couldn't turn the bolts with a phillips bit, I grabbed their heads in a vice grip and backed them out the last 1/2". The original strut bolts were 3/8 x 3 1/2 inches, I replaced them with 3/8 x 2" bolts that a deep socket could fit over easily. Installation was much simpler. 4) The strut then was easy to pull off, held in only by old bedding compound. Shaft and strut slide out together. When I replaced my strut each time (another story) I dry fitted everything, checked alignment of shaft, strut, and motor; then bedded the strut in 3M's 4200. Other folk will recommend other bedding compounds, that's just what I use. 5) Now's a good time to replace your packing nut with a Packless Shaft Seal, replace your cutless bearing, check motor alignment and all those other little things that will make you feel good about your boat. It's not that big a project. Only took me a week to figure out the coupling nut idea, then the whole thing came apart in about 45 minutes. I usually take digital photo's of all my projects, I have photos of the strut being aligned, but I didn't take any of the strut bolts from the inside. If you need photo's though, I go to the boat 3-4 times a week. Just let me know
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