Question: Can the solonoid valve at the propane tank leak/not seal up tight? I refilled my propane tank, reattached the hose leading to the solonoid and checked it. I opened the valve on the tank, then closed that valve. After it was closed, the pressure gauge slowly but steadily dropped. I squirted soapy water on the hose but didn't find any bubbles anywhere. I'm wondering if the solonoid valve could be slowly leaking - that is, not shutting completely - allowing the propane to travel down the hose to the stove. Is that possible? (I didn't have time to test for that.)
propane tank solonoid
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If the Burner Valves at the Range are Closed ...
................. then you shouldn't see any drop on the high pressure gauge even if the solenoid valve is leaking internally. As you've already soaped it with no bubbles showing, it isn't leaking externally.
The pressure can only drop off (once the tank isolation valve is closed) if the propane is leaking to atmosphere either through the range burners or some other very undesirable location
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I would suggest soaping everything on your propane system from one end to the other. And no smoking on the job.
................. then you shouldn't see any drop on the high pressure gauge even if the solenoid valve is leaking internally. As you've already soaped it with no bubbles showing, it isn't leaking externally.
The pressure can only drop off (once the tank isolation valve is closed) if the propane is leaking to atmosphere either through the range burners or some other very undesirable location
.I would suggest soaping everything on your propane system from one end to the other. And no smoking on the job.
I agree with Ralph, once pressurized it should stay pressurized unless you had a burner on...check it an be careful.
Yes it is possible and quite likely to have some sort of internal leakeage in the solenoid valve. You need to perform a leak test in the entire system. Open the tank valve and energize the solenoid and pressurize the entire system. Then close just the tank valve and observe the pressure gauge. If within 5 minutes you notice a pressure drop then you have an external leak and all components from the stove burners to the pigtail are suspect. I usually strech the observation period to 30 minutes just to insure the system is sound. Make sure to wiggle the hoses during the test period as hose fittings that may properly seal with the hoses at rest may start leaking once the boat starts moving. To test the effectiveness of the solenoid valve conduct a separate test where you light a burner and then shut off the solenoid and burner should turn off. If it does'nt replace the solenoid. If it does is doing it's job. I also use the sniff test by pressurizing the system and sniffing all along the system. No smell confirms what the pressure gauge may be telling me. The best accident prevention is to keep the tank valve closed and as soon as you get done using the stove to close it again. I never rely on the solenoid valve to do that for me.
I think Benny nailed this, great reply. The only area I where I differ is that I use the solenoid, and leave the tank valve open always. That's the point of the solenoid. If you turn the tank valve off whenever you're not using the gas, you don't need a solenoid. My tank valves are a pain to get to - in the lazerette, inside a tank locker that has four safety latches. I test the solenoid at least once per Benny's method.
I think the most likely source of a leak as you describe it is the tank whips. One of mine failed dramatically, the other was dry-rotted. I figure they are good for five years. Mine were probably 25!
I was at the boat just now after my partner used it over the last couple of days. He evidently had turned off the solenoid (apologies for the earlier misspelling) before turning off the valve on the tank. The gauge still read right below 120 lbs. I checked and rechecked and the gauge held steady.
When I refilled the tank and tested it, the gauge had run up to 180 and then dropped from there. The only thing I can figure is that at this higher pressure the propane forced its way through the solenoid and into the hose beyond it, but once some gas was used and the pressure dropped the solenoid valve held steady. Does that sound possible?
When I refilled the tank and tested it, the gauge had run up to 180 and then dropped from there. The only thing I can figure is that at this higher pressure the propane forced its way through the solenoid and into the hose beyond it, but once some gas was used and the pressure dropped the solenoid valve held steady. Does that sound possible?
Jviss you are not alone; many for convenience rely on the solenoid to shut off and turn on the propane. Now the primary function of the solenoid is to act as a remote shutoff valve. In case of a flare up while cooking the gas can be quickly and safely turned off from the cabin instead of having to run to the locker to turn the valve off. Even if the tank valve is shutoff after every use the solenoid valve is a nice safety feature to have in case of emergency. I have been using propane before pressure valves and solenoid valves came into use and thus feels quite natural to shut off the valve tank. Old habits die hard.
the solenoid valve (more properly called the "lock off valve") can leak but is not suppose to.... obviously. it has a conical seat that opens against the gas flow/pressure so that when the power to the solenoid is off a small assist spring closes the seat and the gas pressure keeps it closed.... but if you get a spot of dust or other debris in seat it can hold it open slightly..... which is why the other downstream valves should also function correctly. the rubber seat can also become old and brittle and over time and it may not seat as well as it should....
the lock off valve when working properly is as good at stopping the flow of gas as the tank valve, and in addition to the properly working downstream valves, the system should be nearly fool proof..... but only the tank valve can insure that it is fool proof....
its good to have a gauge before and after the lock off valve for the ease of checking it periodically for leaks.
if you have any leakage downstream from the lockoff, it either needs to be fixed ASAP, or install an additional lock off ASAP.... never bet your life only one gas shutoff valve.....
the lock off valve when working properly is as good at stopping the flow of gas as the tank valve, and in addition to the properly working downstream valves, the system should be nearly fool proof..... but only the tank valve can insure that it is fool proof....
its good to have a gauge before and after the lock off valve for the ease of checking it periodically for leaks.
if you have any leakage downstream from the lockoff, it either needs to be fixed ASAP, or install an additional lock off ASAP.... never bet your life only one gas shutoff valve.....
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